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installing subframe

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by jdgreen454, Oct 8, 2005.

  1. jdgreen454

    jdgreen454 Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    I've got 2000 Chevy 2500 (old bodystyle) that I bought a used Western unimount for. The plow came off an early to mid 90's half ton. Before I bought the plow I measured frame widths and mounting holes and everything was the same. I tried to put it on the other night, but couldn't get all the holes to line up. I also am not to sure how the back of the subframe bolts to the crossmember on the truck. Anyway if any of you guys could help me I'd appreciate it.
     
  2. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Being that the mount came off an early 90's it may be the first version of the uni-mount for that body style. There are 2 versions of the uni-mount for the classic GM's, the first one was only used for a few years because of issues with the air bag being deployed in high impacts after gm changed their air bag system. That mount is kit # 1545 or mount no 61440. I have installed this mount on a few mid 90's and newer without any problems of the air bags being deployed during high impacts while plowing.

    The second mount is the one still in production and has had a few updates but doesnt have any issues with the air bags. That mount is kit # 1585 or mount no 62330. If you have this mount version make sure that you have and use the double plates and the support brackets when doing the install, these will keep you from pulling the end of the frame rails apart.

    Now that i gave you a brief history, your best bet is to got to westerns site, under plublications, snowplows, mounts, kit instructions and find the 2 mounts that i listed and see which one you have before we can give you any install tips.
     
  3. jdgreen454

    jdgreen454 Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    I have mount #1545
     
  4. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    That mounts a little fun, I know the instructions dont say anything about completly removing the front bumper but it helps to give you room to work and only takes a few minutes longer to pull it off the truck.

    Start with hanging the rear pieces loosely first, then come back to the front, remember not to tighten anything up until you have it all hanging together and then you can tighten everything up on the mount with the bumper still off the truck. You may have to ream the 3 holes to get the bumper bolts to line back up, this is a common problem on older GM's so dont worry if they dont line up.

    Remember that the mount heigth needs to be 9.5 to 10.5 inches from the ground to the center of the bottom pin lug on the mount. And since this is a used mount, make sure that you have and install ALL pieces shown in the instructions and replace all the old mount fasteners with new fasteners.

    Any other ?'s, let me know.

    Jeff
     
  5. jdgreen454

    jdgreen454 Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    I noticed there were two holes in the crossmember where the rear pieces mount that are the same distance apart as the holes in the mount. Are these the holes that I use? It's a little tricky getting your hands up in there to drop two bolts through.
     
  6. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Yeah, those holes are fun to get too, even more fun when you have to tighten them up.

    How far north are you, just realized your in MI?
     
  7. jdgreen454

    jdgreen454 Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    I live about 25 mi from Traverse City just outside of Honor. Now what I did was drop a bolt with a washer through each hole with another washer, lock washer, and then the nut. Is this the best way, or is there a better way.
     
  8. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Just as long as your bolts arent really long, I try to go up when i can but its such a pain getting in there that going down will work.

    what are you doing, installing as we go?
     
  9. jdgreen454

    jdgreen454 Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    No, I'm just trying to get everything covered so I can do it. Hopefully tomorrow. When I tried the other night I got the back bolts lined up and the passenger side bolts lined up, but the drivers side holes on the mount weren't lining up with the holes in the frame. Did you ever have this problem?
     
  10. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    If i remember right, i had to do some drilling/reaming.

    Do you want a # to call?
     
  11. jdgreen454

    jdgreen454 Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    Sure, just in case I get into some trouble. Thanks for all the help.
     
  12. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    check your pm's

    dont check pms, says you cant receive them. will try email.

    That didnt work either, send me an email Crash935@msn.com

    dont want to post # in open.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2005
  13. Joe D

    Joe D Senior Member
    Messages: 605

    I have no info about your sub frame but the frames on the 88-98 1/2 tons and the 88-00 3/4 and 1 tons are different. The height of the rails compared to the lower front crossmember is different, the 3/4 and 1 tons are a taller frame when comparing this dimension.
     
  14. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    The 88-99 2wd used a different mount but the 1/2 ton through 1 ton in 4wd classic bosdy style all used the same mount.
     
  15. neetchracer

    neetchracer Junior Member
    Messages: 26

    Not sure if this will help but I just bought a used unimount off of a 97 1/2 ton, just got done putting the subframe on my 95 3/4 ton(over 8600) it fit fine, but I could tell it must not be mounted exactly the same as it was before on the half ton, but it is correct on my truck. I had to pull off the bumper and drill out a few holes, not a bad install though.