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inspect my weld repair pics

Discussion in 'Blizzard Plows Discussion' started by jimhoff, Oct 7, 2009.

  1. jimhoff

    jimhoff Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 12

    I beat up my A frame and had to weld it together. First I had to cut it up to weld the inside. Let me know if you think she'll hold a season:

    1.jpg

    2.jpg

    3.jpg

    4.jpg

    5.jpg
     
  2. dellwas

    dellwas Senior Member
    Messages: 369

    I'm no expert at welding, but the welds look a little cold to me (not enough penetration, too cold)

    Why not join over here and post the pics to get some expert opinions:

    http://weldingweb.com

     
  3. Wallace

    Wallace Member
    Messages: 57

    ya it is way cold don't look at us a picking on you look at us as helping you.
    I guess you are open to any advise otherwise you wouldn't have asked.;)
     
  4. Schwinn68

    Schwinn68 Senior Member
    Messages: 164

    the welds look like they will hold. You might want to grind down the questionable welds and put some new beads on but I've seen a lot worse. Make sure to put on some paint on there when you're done and it should be just fine
     
  5. JD Dave

    JD Dave PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,045

    I agree, some of my first welding jobs looked a little like that and they held just fine. If you were just fixing little cracks I'm sure it will hold fine, Paint it then keep your eye on it over the winter. Did you clean the surface up really well before you started to weld? Also turn the heat up a little more and relax next time. What type of rod were you using?
     
  6. naturalgreen

    naturalgreen Senior Member
    Messages: 404

    looks like they should work temp may be ok but you were going a little fast. but if you turn iit up you can go a little faster but practice going slower first. grind down questionable and see how deep you penetrated.
     
  7. jimhoff

    jimhoff Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 12

    I had to cut it into 5 pieces with a plasma to repair the inside. I put bevels on all attachment points and ground all metal before welding with a Miller 180 autoset. .030 mig steel wire and yes I'm a beginning welder :jester:
     
  8. Cooter24

    Cooter24 Senior Member
    from NE Iowa
    Messages: 268

    My two most important welding tips. Make sure you can see. Make sure you are comfortable. Two minor but important factors.
     
  9. 04WhiteSport

    04WhiteSport Senior Member
    Messages: 113

    I say No, No Penetration. Spit on it next time...
     
  10. NorthernSvc's

    NorthernSvc's Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    grind all those welds down, wire brush 1" on each side of were your gonna weld, im assuming your using to small of a machine for the thickness of this metal so you will have to pre heat the metal - take an oxy acetylene torch and warm up all around were your going to weld - doesn't need to be cherry red, just untill you get a little color change...
     
  11. Ketch

    Ketch Member
    Messages: 48

    I'm with Cooter and Northern -

    Any weld with porosity (those little popped bubbles), inclusions or cracks must be ground down until you can't see any porosity, inclusions or imperfections. If after grinding it's below the level of the surrounding metal, or doesn't make a nice beveled edge (90 degree inside corner weld), lay another weld down on top of it. Make triple sure you have good penetration! If you can, get a scrap piece of similar type and thickness and run a few beads to get the correct heat (amperage) setting. You don't want undercutting, but you do want to be right on the verge of it. Get comfy and go slow! Make sure your weld area is completely free of all paint, dirt and debris, and preheat with a big propane preheater or oxy-ace torch. Wire brush and/or grind each weld before making another pass. Also, wire brush and PAINT all welds and exposed areas before hitting the snow! You don't want to smell burning paint while you weld, so make sure your wire brushing and grinding prep activities remove a good amount around your weld. Stop and grind/brush more if you smell paint. Also, with that wire welder, make sure your shielding gas is set correctly. Too little gas will allow contamination into your weld puddle, and too much will cool your weld too quickly and hinder penetration, as well as waste money. Do it right the first time!
     
  12. 4evergreenlawns

    4evergreenlawns Senior Member
    Messages: 552

    Any pictures of what it looked like before you repaired it??? How about the moldboard and Quadrant? Was it a Power Plow?

    Only real answer in my plowing experience is; if it needed that much work you should have replaced the A frame. Welding for a repair is one thing, re-building something, that is different.

    Keep in mind the stress the A frame is under and if you caused that type of damage,which I have not seen a Blizzard A frame ever look that bad, then just bending and welding is not going to take the place of the torque box design intended.

    Again, just my view based on the hours I have seen my plows being used and have decide REPAIR or REPLACE my share of times.

    Best, Ron G.
     
  13. T&M SnowMan

    T&M SnowMan Senior Member
    Messages: 249

    I have a Miller 140 autoset at work (along with many other machines) but I have used the 180 as well, tell me your not using the "autoset feature"?? Cause its $h!tty (the feature). Use some scrap metal next time and mess around with your heat/speed. Another thing, the .030 will work, but with what your using and with the A Frame being a very important structural part, you want these welds to be close to perfect...looks that most of the welds are cold, and with fillet welds with the 180 autoset being used for something like this you want to layer weld, because the .030 is not gonna get you a very good size weld, is not going to get too hot. You can always preheat the piece your welding a bit first, just enough so its not cold...we all start somewhere, keep an eye on it. practice going slower and pick up a welding book at the local book store, alot of good information on technique that could help in giving you the answer as to what to do with your next repair...good luck this winter
     
  14. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Did you weld each layer individually? How it should have been done, preparation time should have taken at least 5x the length of time the welding did. If you spent more time welding then in preparation you will have issues.

    Cold Lap, porosity's, inclusions, incorrect travel speeds, improper size weld wire for the material, poor pre-heat, nasty restarts, all are visible in those welds. There is no such thing as a strong ugly weld, and grinding the top and welding over it doesn't fix it. Any weld that looks like that on the outside looks even worse under X-ray.

    There is never any better penetration than you get with your first pass, you've also created hard spots in the structure. Areas that got too hot will be too ductile, the areas that didn't get hot or preheated enough will root crack or crystallize. Both these will cause issues when placed under torsional or charpy loads.

    MIG is not the choice for repair work but if you do use it joint preparation and application techniques are critical.

    Buying a welder does not make you one. Reading a book about welding will not make you a welder. Take a class at the local vo-tech. Learn to run stick, learn travel speed, hand position and to read the molten puddle. Welding is a science that borders on art and learning experiences should never be depended on in the kind of critical applications a snowplow A-frame sees.

    You asked:waving:
     
  15. ALC-GregH

    ALC-GregH PlowSite.com Addict
    from pa
    Messages: 1,132

    I don't own a welder but I sure can lay some nice lines when it comes to the finished weld.

    When I saw the welds on the frame you pictured, I thought you used a stick welder at first! If I were to use a mig welder on the frame you pictured, the welds would be puddled in, not up. :D Looks like it will hold up just keep an eye on it.
     
  16. Adamj

    Adamj Junior Member
    from Calgary
    Messages: 5

    I would have used stick with a 1718 with a whip motion so it lays in. Makes a stronger weld.
     
  17. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    :confused:Never head of a 17XX welding rod. If you mean 7018, you would NEVER whip a low hyd Rod. It is a "fill/freeze as opposed to a fast freeze and you should never "whip" anything but a fast freeze.
     
  18. ADMSWELDING

    ADMSWELDING Senior Member
    Messages: 397

    Lot of welding pros on here.Maybe i should post some pics to be picked apart.:laughing:
     
  19. T&M SnowMan

    T&M SnowMan Senior Member
    Messages: 249

    actually your wrong...its welding "experts"...not Pros....cause in the end everyones and expert! Where in MA are you?
     
  20. caddytruck89

    caddytruck89 Senior Member
    Messages: 157

    Not to throw any gas on the fire,but, welding should be left to professionals. And by professionals i don't mean ( I have a welder and it is my profession) I mean a certified welder. A welder as not defined as a dude with a machine and a hood. A professional welder is certified and knows the proper weld procedure and parameters for the wire/rod. And to answer a sure to follow question. Yes i have numerous united states and cwb (Canadian weld bureau) certs. So i guess i take this stuff to serious!! A "bad" weld can cause someone there life!!!!