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Induction system cleanup

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by 2COR517, Jul 9, 2009.

  1. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    I did a little work on my 97 GMC last weekend. With 135,000 miles, I thought I would give it some induction maintenance. I pulled the Mass Airflow Sensor and cleaned it with CRC MAF cleaner. Super easy job. Then I pulled the Throttle Body and cleaned it, along with the Idle Air Control. TB came off in just a few minutes. Two Torx screws for the IAC, two more for the Throttle Position Sensor. Took the TPS off so I wouldn't have to worry about damaging it with excess TB Cleaner. Sprayed some TB cleaner on the TB and used and old toothbrush and scrubbed it down. Cleaned the bore, throttle plate, and IAC port. Took a couple of passes, but it cleaned up very nicely. Gave the IAC a couple of quick squirts. Put everything back together, truck started right up. I reused the TB to intake gasket. Once she was running and warmed back up, I pulled the brake booster vacuum line. Poured a bottle of Sea Foam in very slowly (use a funnel). Had some pretty nasty crap coming out of the tailpipe. Put another can of Sea Foam in the tank. I have since run that tank down and filled back up.
    There have been some very noticeable improvements since I did this. First of all, and immediately, the throttle response is much better. Truck feels much smarter off the line. The idle is smoother, the whole truck feels smoother. I didn't think it made much difference under a light load, but have noticed I have been speeding more often in places I go frequently. And tonight I noticed the truck is holding OD longer before downshifting.

    So, for an hours time and $25 bucks or so, made a great improvement in the truck.:bluebounc

    Here are some before and after pics of the TB. It was pretty nasty :eek:

    TB Before1.jpg TB Before2.jpg
    TB After1.jpg TB After2.jpg

    TB Before1.jpg

    TB Before2.jpg

    TB After1.jpg

    TB After2.jpg
     
  2. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Little bit of an update. Put the truck to work hauling my dump trailer today filled with roofing. Truck and trailer combined at least 14K pounds, if not 15K. This thing seriously feels like a brand new truck. The mid range power is amazing. Hauling the trailer, I didn't even feel it on the flats. I was able to accelerate on hills that I could barely maintain speed on before, all in higher gears and lower RPMS. I didn't even have to go wide open on the big hill before my house. That used to be wide open, drop all the way to first, 30 mph. Was doing 45 in second with the TC locked up this time.

    Six months ago I thought I would be changing motors. Ripping out the Bosch+4 late last winter and putting in the AC Delco's gapped at .040 made a big difference, the truck was at least driveable. The work last weekend really woke the truck up. Many thanks to B&B for the advice and guidance.
     
  3. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It's amazing what a little cleaning of the proper areas will do isn't it? If more guys would take the time to do these easy and cheap little procedures once in a while we'd have many more whom are happy with the very noticeable difference these things make. Carbon buildup happens so slowly over time that the loss in power and performance goes virtually unnoticed. That is until you give it the attention it begs for after 50-100K of loyal use.

    There's plenty of other items that also fall into the "I never noticed until I changed it" category as well. Just a couple are shocks, alignments, O2 sensors (yes they really are a maintenance item with a life expectancy) and of course tune up parts such as plugs and PCV valves.
     
  4. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Should I be doing O2 sensors now, or 50K ago? GM, or Napa/Autozone. And I'm guessing I should do them both at the same time.
     
  5. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    They'll generally last 100K on an engine that doesn't/didn't burn excessive oil or any antifreeze, or they haven't been contaminated in some other way. But by 100K they're usually getting rather lazy to switching/responding to the mixture changes and swapping them out for a fresh set can and does make a noticeable improvement in MPG's and performance.

    This only applies to the primary sensors. The rear ones (if equipped) don't have a bearing on performance so as long as you don't have any post cat sensor codes they can be left alone indefinitely.

    I always try to purchase genuine GM 02's whenever possible as they'll be either Denso or occasionally Bosch branded. Always have good luck with either. The stuff you can purchase at the box stores just aren't the same.
     
  6. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    It helps to know i can leave the secondaries alone. The cuts the cost of the job in half! Checking Autozone and AC websites, the AC's are no more money. Seems like a lot of sensors, ignition, etc items are just as cheap from the dealer.

    Fuel Economy update: Went on a 180 or so mile trip today. Mix of rural roads 40-60 mph, interstate 60-75mph, and about a half hour in the city. Pulled 15MPG. That's about 7% better than my previous best, nothing to sneeze at. payup Could probably squeeze 16 or better on a long trip at moderate speeds.

    I would recommend anyone with 50K or more on their truck to do this. Cheap, quick, and easy. Big returns.
     
  7. dvblandscaping

    dvblandscaping Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    sorry to resurrect an old thread....

    I just did the induction maintenance discussed in this thread (sea foam smoke was fun)

    And I also have a lot more mid range throttle.

    Dodge 3500 1 ton 5.9

    Thanks for the tips
     
  8. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Glad you found it. For anyone else that is thinking of doing this, I did the SeaFoam through the intake again. I did it a little bit differently, with much more dramatic results. I poured the SeaFoam into the TB. Mostly in the IAC port on the backside of the TB. The IAC valve opening is quite small, so it makes quite a sucking sound. This really seemed to help atomize the SeaFoam better. As soon as it was in, I shut the truck off. Pulled the ECM fuses, and put the air inlet duct back together. You need to pull the fuses to clear the codes from running the truck without the MAF connected. Let the truck sit for an hour or better. This is a great time to change your fuel filter LOL. Started it up and took it for a ride. It took five miles before it stopped blowing black smoke.
     
  9. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    OK!!! B&B you recommend changing O2 sensors every 100,000 I have over 127,000 mi. How can I tell if they may have been changed when I bought the trk with 115,00 on it ??? Is there some way to tell if they have been done ???? Or if they need ti be done ???
    Thanks !!!! Rich .....
     
  10. Mike_13

    Mike_13 Member
    Messages: 50

    lookin good as new! glad to hear that helped solve your problems
     
  11. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    No real way to identify with 100% certainty that they've been changed before Rich. Only way to do that is to change them yourself. With nearly 130K I wouldn't hesitate to change them.

    Note: you only need to change the front two. Rear 02's (if your truck is equipped with them) can be left alone indefinitely.
     
  12. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    Thanks ! ! ! Money is tight they want $98 a piece for them will work on getting them done .....
     
  13. dvblandscaping

    dvblandscaping Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    ok. now i am starting to have problems. I think it may be the throttle position sensor. The transmission is no longer shifting correctly and it jumps out of gear when I let off the gas.

    Does anyone know what the sensors on the throttle body are? one is the TPS... the other is the Idle air control... what is the third one for?
    1999 5.9 Dodge Ram 3500
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2009
  14. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    You may get some responses here, but you might want to start a new thread on the Dodge forum.
     
  15. Seaway25

    Seaway25 Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    Would CRC QD Electronics Cleaner be ok to use on the MAF? It seems like the same stuff as the CRC MAF cleaner. I'm just asking because I have some of the Electronics cleaner and the local parts store doesn't have any MAF in stock.
     
  16. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    I would only use MAF cleaner. Those things are too expensive to screw up over a $7 can of cleaner.

    AutoZone, Napa, should have it, probably others.
     
  17. Seaway25

    Seaway25 Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    I cleaned the MAF and the throttle body today. I also ran a can of sea foam through the throttle body. I didn't really see anything much in the exhaust. A little white smoke but not black smoke or much of anything else. I don't know if I did something wrong or not. I don't know if cleaning everything really helped me or not, but it gives me some piece of mind.
     
  18. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Did you shut the truck down as soon as you were down pouring in the Seafoam? Let it sit for an hour or so?
     
  19. Seaway25

    Seaway25 Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    That's probably it. I shut it off right away, but I only let it sit for about 10 minutes.
     
  20. T-O/Slim

    T-O/Slim Junior Member
    Messages: 7

    Great post verry informative. Is the info found hier relivent for a 04 6.0? The difference is just that 04 did not have a cabel throttle.
    My local NAPA has 3 different sea foam product wich one are you using?