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hydraulic line-how hard to change???

Discussion in 'Blizzard Plows Discussion' started by Detroitdan, Feb 4, 2007.

  1. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    Blew a hydraulic line to my right wing yesterday. Wouldn't angle but still moved in and out. Later it wouldn't even move in and out, but I think that's cause the fluid got too low, but I'm not sure. Just a quick look under there, I think it may have chafed where it goes into the box on the back side of the plow, there is about a four inch hole with several hoses running through it, it has a rubber strip to prevent chafing but of course the strip doesn't go completely around the circle. Just wondering how hard these are to change. I have no idea how to get to the end that's inside. Is there anything special about these lines or is it a standard size that I can just take to the parts store and have made? I've changed plenty of hydraulic lines before, but never one that was inside of something like that! I figure I'll change them all while I'm at it, as long as it isn't too expensive. On the plus side, I've been wanting to get that fluid changed out. The old stuff that came out looked brand new, nice and clean looking red against that white snow. Not bad for a 99 that has probably never been changed. Is Blizzard fluid red?
    Anyway, any pointers on how tough these things are to get at would be appreciated. I really don't want to take it to the dealer and pay a ton of money for a simple hose.
     
  2. DESTEFANO3782

    DESTEFANO3782 Senior Member
    Messages: 179

    i had the same problem. i took sum of that plastic wire rap you use to rap cables togather in to keep it nice and neat like they use in cars for speaker wire and such. i replaced the hose witch is real easy, and then put the cover aound the hose and braced the rap in place with wire ties to make it tight.
     
  3. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    Yeah, I definitely plan on correcting the chafing issue so it can't happen again. How do you get at the end of the hose? I haven't really had a chance to look at it yet.
     
  4. Joe D

    Joe D Senior Member
    Messages: 605

    I had some hoses made at a local shop and they put a sleve over a section that I had concern over it getting cut.
    As far as the line replacement, not sure but I think you can see the lines from the rear of the plow
     
  5. chazg33

    chazg33 Member
    Messages: 97

    just changed a cut line the other day,got pinched while stacking i took some 3/4 heater hose and covered the hyd hoses then zip tied them around gave it added protection then checked all hoses and zip tied them so no hoses are hanging or are in pinch points,and had a couple of spare hoses made up and kept in the truck,,fittings came loose easy,just used 11/16 open end wrench JUST enough room to get loose....
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2007
  6. chazg33

    chazg33 Member
    Messages: 97

    look at back of plow 2 lines go to hyd cylinder,for wing,the other end will go to bottom of manifold in the back,, take cover off,,hooked to a 90 degree elbow on manifold might want to spray with pb blaster first to loosen rust,15 minute job,
     
  7. magnatrac

    magnatrac PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,055

    The hydro line to the wing shouldn't be too bad. I never had to replace a broken line but I have taken them apart to replace broken springs in the wing. I know your model year has more lines but It shouldn't be that different. I am not sure if you need to pull the wing out to get to the end of your line. I guess it dependes on which of the two cylinders the hose goes to. If it is the ram that pushes the wing out it's right there. If it is the scoop ram you will need to pull the wing. Unhook the hose at the pump and the hose at the other ram. There are two pins that hold the wing assembly into the mold board. Pull those out and the whole thing will pull apart giving you access to the outer hydro ram. If the plow has never been apart it will probably be a little bit of a fight getting the wing out. You can take out a couple of bolts ,and the pump will tilt for easy access to the lines on the bottom. It has been a while since I have taken a plow apart so I am sorry if I have given any miss information. If you have to pull a wing out put anti sieze on when you put it back together( it makes it much easier the next time you take it apart) When I was assembling my 810 I thought that might be a possible problem. I wrapped the lines with a bunch of tape where they went through any part of the plow. Any where I thought there could be a rubbing issue I tried to protect the lines. I had no problems in four years. Should be an easy fix GOOD LUCK !!!
    Oh yeah , any blizzard fluid I have used has always been blue !!!
     
  8. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    Okay, it looks like this is going to be a project. I determined it is the larger line that blew, going into the right side wing. The first thing that stopped working was the scoop function, I was initially able to slide the wing in and out, but that stopped too, presumably when the fluid got low enough. Everything is real old and rusty so I hope I can get it apart without stripping fittings. I can get at the fitting under the manifold okay, but even after removing the little access panel on the back of the plow I can't even see the other end of the hose. So I guess I'll have to unpin and pull the wing out, but I'm not really clear on what that will do to help. I had an idea that I could get at it easier if it were tripped, with the blade laying flat and away from the rest of the plow, but to do that I have to undo all four trip springs. Probably wouldn't be half as bad a job if it weren't so freaking cold out. Of course my garage is full of junk so I can't even get out of the wind.
     
  9. magnatrac

    magnatrac PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,055

    If you have your manual you can see that the hydro ram will be accessable once the wing is out. I know it's work but it will put your fitting right there to work on easily. If you do not have a manual go to ( snowplowsupply.com ) they have all of the drawings online to show how it goes together. Try spraying some penatrating oil on your fittings before you try and break them free. When I have pulled wings out I left the plow upright. I put a couple small blocks of wood under the main cutting edge. You can then dismount the plow and the wings will be off the ground. Now you can slide them out . Just grab the top and bottom and start pulling. ( lift up and down while you pull it will come out ) Good luck I hope you can get things fixed soon !!!
     
  10. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    thanks for the help, good info. I'll print out your posts and take them outside with me for reference. It looks like the pins holding the wing on must go through the inboard end of the ram, right? I'm wondering if I might have to unhook all the lines from the manifold, it seems like they may prevent me from pulling the wing. I am thinking about refilling the reservoir and re-connecting to the truck, so I can try to run the wing out under power. At least then I'll only have a little way to pull it.
    BTW, reading through that Blizzard manual it says to use ATF. Maybe on the early ones they hadn't yet branded their own blue fluid so they can require it and charge more. I was going to buy hydraulic oil but after reading that I'm just going to use ATF. It always worked for me in sub-zero temps, even on my first Fisher that had the valve body mounted out on the front of the headgear.
    Thanks again Magnatrac.
     
  11. Joe D

    Joe D Senior Member
    Messages: 605

    Is your plow an older model? I can see the wing hoses from the back of the blade and they look easy to change out.
     
  12. magnatrac

    magnatrac PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,055

    Yeah your going to have to unhook the lines where ever it is easiest. If you can get the wing out under power that might help. As far as fluid goes I know my westerns used the red stuff. They worked fine, no problems. I put the blue fluid in my last one becasue it's what was available. I guess it is supposed to be better in cold weather. Again GOOD LUCK !!!
     
  13. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    yeah, it's a 99, I think it's one of the first ones ever made.
     
  14. Sharpcut 1

    Sharpcut 1 Senior Member
    Messages: 386

    If you got a 99, you have 2 cylinders in your wing, not springs like someone else stated. You will have to pull wing entirely out and pay attention to how your hoses are looped in the box, because if you don't leave the slack in them the right way, you will rip them. It it won't scoop, then you blew a line on the small ram. If you need to get to the line, you'll have to drive out the pin. Good luck if it's been in there since 99. I have had to take a sawsall to get them out, torch, or drill, sometimes all three. This is not a fun job. You will have to unhook all 4 lines going to that side. If it's a 99 or 2000, you will have 8 hoses going to the wings, 4 each side. If it's the new style box with the spring, you'll only have 4 hoses, 2 per side. Good luck, you'll need it. JOHN
     
  15. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    Got it done yesterday, wasn't too bad but wasn't fun either. I unhooked all four lines at the manifold, then drove out the big pin toward the center, that goes through the inboard end of the box piston. Took wing all the way off, but couldn't get the actual wing part off the sliding box, so I moved the little tin hinge shield and was able to get my hand inside to do both lines on the wing piston. Had new lines made next door at the truck repair place, but they ran out of crimps so I only got three. Paid $103 for 3 lines and two new elbow fittings, then I had to go to NAPA for the fourth line. Wasn't happy, charged me $37 and is not heavy duty like the other 3. Got it all back together and working last night, hoping the lines are all run properly. I decided to leave the cover off where the old line chafed through, the drivers side one was missing anyway, from whenever someone replaced a line on that side. Now the lines can't really pinch there anymore. Might fill up with snow, but better than cutting a line.
    With 4 lines, two fittings, and a gallon of fluid I spent $150. No way was I going to do all that work and only replace the one broken line. Not bad for an 8 year old plow I guess. I dread to think what it would have cost at the dealer.
    Thanks for all the help and advice!
     
  16. magnatrac

    magnatrac PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,055

    Glad to hear that your back in buisness !!! I guess your good for another eight years !!!
     
  17. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    that's right, if it ain't broke, don't fix it (and try not to break it!)
     
  18. mr hydroseed

    mr hydroseed Member
    Messages: 53

    Blizzard lines

    Hey, I know its been awhile but do you know how long those hydraulic lines where? I also just burst my larger ram hose. I'm dreading this. I wanted to order new lines at Northern tool before i take it apart. 4ft 1/4" hoses are $7.99ea
    What I think I'm going to do is buy their reusable hose couplings, they are designed to go on bulk hydraulic hose. I'm going to cut where the chaffing was, 6" after the manifold, install the hose end and re-attach the hose. now the steel fitting will be exactly where it had chaffed and I don't have to take everything apart. We'll see.
     
  19. fastjohnny

    fastjohnny Senior Member
    Messages: 654

    Let us know how that works out for you. You can find the length of the lines on the PDF files on the Blizzard Plows website, technical info.
     
  20. Lawnman883

    Lawnman883 Member
    Messages: 85

    i blew the larger hose in my right wing too. i think i need to fix it soon because i keep accidently hitting that switch only to find myself pumping red on the ground...maybe after this round of storms...