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How to tie down salter?

Discussion in 'Ice Management' started by 04f350powerv-xt, Oct 30, 2008.

  1. 04f350powerv-xt

    04f350powerv-xt Senior Member
    Messages: 125

    I'm buying a new snowex 7500 salter, just wondering how you guys tie them down. My dealer is telling me that i have to bolt it to the bed of the truck, which I don't want to do. I'f I don't do it this way I have to sign a waiver that the dealer is not responsible. My box liner is completly sealed (it will fill up with a foot of water and and not drain) so no salt can get to my truck box to rust it out and I'd like to keep it that way. So I want to just strap it down with 4 straps, whats the best way to do this front to back or front to front? I figure the salter weighs about 600 lbs and 1.5 yards of salt will weigh about 3300 lbs for a combined weight of 3900 lbs, the straps i bought have a "safe working load" of 1333 lbs per srap for a total 5332 lbs. Which should work, right?
  2. elite1msmith

    elite1msmith 2000 Club Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 2,762

    no not really
    , well depends

    heres the thing , technicly , if your strapping it buy the cornors, if the load has a G force against it in one dirrection , only one , or possibly two of the straps will be holding back the load

    i didnt use the bolt in brakets, and i was fine, but i had , Ryno linner, which made it had for anything to slide around, and plastic bed linner, lots of stuff slides....

    i did mine front to back , then also side to side, I think i used 6 straps? it was a while ago
  3. johndeereguy

    johndeereguy Senior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 158

    My dealer told me to just use ratchet straps, that he provided from snow ex, said there is no reason to bolt it in. Wokred just fine for me last year anyways
  4. Mark13

    Mark13 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,719

    My boss just used 4 straps to hold his snowex in. It didn't move all winter.

    Just get some straps that are good for 3000lbs+ each.
  5. 04f350powerv-xt

    04f350powerv-xt Senior Member
    Messages: 125

    Elite you raise a good point with the g-force.

    These straps are rated at 1333 ilbs safe work load with a breaking point of 4000 lbs each....
  6. elite1msmith

    elite1msmith 2000 Club Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 2,762

    i would just consider the manor and dirrection that the force or load could shift..... if it shifted foward and on an angle towards the divers side .. you would only have the strap at the passenger rear holding it ... one sinlg strap , holding 3500 lbs , plus the g force on it.

    i think mine worked only becaue i used heavy straps, and mainly becasue the tention on the straps was dirrected in a doward manor, creating fiction against the ryno lineer, which prevented it from moving,... id be willing to bet that my ryno linner held more force, than the straps

    so because your on a plastic, linner , you will not have that ablity on your side

    i would highly consider , using chains, or a few more , heavy staps as well

    and keep in mind that it can side any dirrection , i strapped on in , a few weeks back , just for transport purposes, i had to cross the straps, becasue there wasnt enought distance for them to work .... turns out , becasue i ran the front to the rear , and Vs versa, i now took all the side to side stabality out of it... and the unit moved 5 inches towards the drivers side , during a turn
  7. GreenAcresFert

    GreenAcresFert Senior Member
    Messages: 219

    This is how I do mine,...its actually the worst way but I don't have any of the steel tie downs on the inside that most newer trucks have, but anyways it worked just fine. Even with all 2 yards maybe more with the mountain, it was just fine. When it was empty and I am plowing, little bit of back and fourth but very minimal. Thinking of an I hook style threw the frame directly below each corner, so the straps are all pulling straight down. Elite is right on with the G force, I never even thought about that. When I loaded I would just give all 4 a couple cranks b/c they would loosen while loaded. Minor detail about straps is that you have to replace them every year b/c they all fricked up from the salt. Hope this book I just wrote helps make up your mind. BTW I aslo have rhino line that helps

    Last edited: Oct 31, 2008

    Messages: 32

    Just strap it in..... I wouldn't be so worried about the straps just about every truck has got them because we take them in and out so much... but if you want to get real techical I wouldn't be doing the math on the four straps as much as I would be on the 2 10mm bolts that hold the eyelet in your bed.
  9. GreenAcresFert

    GreenAcresFert Senior Member
    Messages: 219

    Also Good Point
  10. Sno4U

    Sno4U Senior Member
    Messages: 480

    Do the Sno-Ex salters also have the "lip" on the back of the salter that keeps it from sliding forward?
    If they do I would just use the heavy straps U have and work off of the 4 corners (that your talking about).
    If you have 3000 lb load of salt that REALLY wants to slide in your box, it will! Your gonna have to come up w/ alot more anchoring if you need to stp sideways motion. Have you thought about putting in blocks beside the salter to keep it centered between the wheel wells?
    I have the Salt Dogg and what I do is I have sheet of plywood w/ rails (2x2 wood) nailed to the edges. I have the rails for a 5th wheel hitch in my bed and its pretty tough sliding the salter in over them, so I built this sheet of plywood as a deck over them. You get heavy straps w/ the slater when U buy it. I used those last year and had no problem. Plowed w/ the truck fully loaded quite often.
  11. powerjoke

    powerjoke PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,341


    i have had the bottom frame rail of v-boxes "slide" out from underneath of them before. WITH the thing tied down from all 4 corner's, so i bet the bolt's are more for holding the botom from shifting side to side instead of holding the spreader upright.

    so with that being said. you might cosider taking a 2x4 or a 4x4 and cutting it to fit between youre salter frame and the bedside. and you'll be fine

    i have broken all the dinkey lil straps that came with my v-box so now we use regular 2" wide ratchet straps.

    here's how i tie mine down......if it helps?

    EDIT: i should ad that i don't use chains....even on heavy equipment, the straps will streatch and absorb a little bounce here and there and still remain tight where a chain will either pull the hook off the salter or bed or just get loose and fall off. trust me.....if a ratchet strap is good enough to tie down a $100,000 dollar loader it's good enough for a salt spreader lol
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2009
  12. mercer_me

    mercer_me PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,358

    I would use rachet straps or chains held down with a chain binder.
  13. elite1msmith

    elite1msmith 2000 Club Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 2,762

    green acres? what keeps your spreader from sliding forward or side to side?
  14. powerjoke

    powerjoke PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,341

    junk in the bed and super glue :D

    i think those spreader's have a "lip" on the back don't they, green acres?

  15. BSDeality

    BSDeality Senior Member
    Messages: 736

    better be a good lip or one nasty bump while slamming on the brakes that thing is going into the cab. You need to cross the straps. Front to the back and back to the front.

    Do it before you kill someone else!
  16. Grn Mtn

    Grn Mtn PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,644

    from my understanding, DOT requires you to bolt through the frame rails from what i understand. unfortuneatly i can't remember where i saw/heard this but pretty sure its true.

    now the reason you don't want to bolt it is because of rust, what the heck do you think salting does:dizzy: a buddy of mine had the exact same truck and he just used it as a daily driver, his had very little rust at all but mine was rusting everywhere, break lines/coolant lines/tranny lines.
  17. powerjoke

    powerjoke PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,341

    WTF: are you talking about?.....who killed who?

    it's not rocket science, and you don't have to be a liscensed overhead rigger to tie down a freakin salter :rolleyes:

    the only way i would have a salter in a truck is if it were a steel salter and it were built as a integral part of a unitized frame to a 1 ton (or heavier) truck and bolted with no less than 37 1/2" grade8 bolt's with self locking nut's and chained with no less than four 3/8" grade70 approved tow chain with safety hook's tying in a diagonal manor in aposeing direction's, and apropriate binder's with the said binder's being secured with a permanant tie as too keep them from comeing off when chain is slackened by bounce of load while in travel..

    freakin Geesh, is that good enough :rolleyes:
  18. snow7899

    snow7899 Senior Member
    Messages: 238

    Just use common sense when securing it to the truck. I've seen a snow ex 8000 land in the middle of an intersection fully loaded. I like using the large ratchet straps. You can find a large assortment in a northern catalog. I think they are about twenty a piece.
  19. Duncan90si

    Duncan90si Senior Member
    Messages: 602

    I just strap mine down at the corners using 4 straps. I've never had a problem with it moving other than when the front left tie down "mount" pulled off the spreader thanks to a cracked weld. If you look you can see I have the front strap in this pic going up top on the spreader instead of through the mounting tab on the side.

  20. BSDeality

    BSDeality Senior Member
    Messages: 736

    PJ, you really think green acres tie down methods are safe? I learned my lesson about strapping down equipment a couple years back when I had some mowers slide on a trailer after I was in an accident. having the straps both pulling forward isn't going to do **** in an nasty accident. what happens when the spreader jumps up? its going right into the cab.

    my comment was basically saying, i don't care if you kill yourself by not strapping down equipment correctly, but don't kill some innocent bystander.