1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

How much for an engine overhaul?

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by TRUP, Mar 20, 2003.

  1. TRUP

    TRUP Member
    Messages: 38

    Now that the weather is improving, I'm losing oil pressure in my K20 after about fifteen minutes of driving. I suspect the main & connecting rod bearings need to be replaced, as opposed to the easy fix of replacing the oil pump. So my question is, how much should I expect to pay to have a 6.2L overhauled?
     
  2. snowflake

    snowflake Member
    Messages: 86

    at you sure that is th e problem and just not the sendin unit goin badi check that out unless you all ready did. not sure havent priced a 6.2 out lately but not cheap i call jasper engines and see what they get for a complete reman motor they got the best warenty 3/yr 70,000 that i know of.
     
  3. TRUP

    TRUP Member
    Messages: 38

    Don't know where the oil sending unit is, and the Haynes manual for diesel engine repair has nothing about it either.:confused:
     
  4. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    I've been interested in this engine, how many miles are on yours? Keep us posted of your findings. Thanks!
     
  5. snowflake

    snowflake Member
    Messages: 86

    check on the back of the motor where the dist would go on a gas motor or check down by the oil filter how many miles to you have on it too, and give more infro on the motor. thinkin more like its got a bad sending unit.
     
  6. TRUP

    TRUP Member
    Messages: 38

    The truck has just over 98K in miles on it. I bought the truck with 91000 miles on it. For me it's difficult to tell if I've got valve damage. The diesel engine noise covers up any valve-clicking that you might hear on a gas motor. There is some definite knocking sounds when you first take-off in the vehicle, but they quickly go away. After about fifteen minutes of driving, the oil pressure will drop from 45psi (approx.) to just under 40. When the truck decelerates, or comes to a stop the pressure drops to 20psi. The pressure does not increase after that, and when the motor is turned-off and back on, sometimes there is 0psi (as seen on the oil gauge in the truck). The truck will run for quite some time at 0psi (the engine is still running well, and I can make it to my destination). How long does it take for a diesel motor to sieze-up when running with no oil pressure? I use Rotella T 15W40 oil, and to date I've replaced the oil twice, tranny oil & filter, alternator, and starter.
    BTW the Chilton's manual states that the oil sensor unit is above the bellhousing and to the left.
     
  7. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    I'm not 100% sure when they switched, but up to at least 1980, oil pressure gauges were mechanical.... so there is no sending unit to find. Now, if the truck only had an oil light, then there would be a sending unit. The factory mechanical gauge connects to the intake manifold, on the top, almost against the firewall with very thin copper capilliary tubing. (Correction, it does not actually connect to the intake, but rather the top of the block, behind the intake. It is in a tough spot to see.)

    ~Chuck
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2003
  8. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    One way to find what's really going on is to get a certified accurate mechanics gauge and run that for a while. Pull off the existing fitting at the block and check that the port is clear. Then attach new hose or tubing, and the gauge. It would be best to locate the gauge in the cab so you can watch it over the varying conditions you describe.

    This will determine if your existing oil pressure gauge is working accurately. If you still have the existing readings, then you've got troubles in oil delivery somewhere. I'm not familiar with the engine, I won't speculate.

    Good luck!
     
  9. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Like Pelican said,get it checked with an accurate gauge.That is the first step in isolating the problem to the engine or gauge circuit.

    20 PSI hot at idle is OK,it won't hurt anything.As far as the truck running at 0 PSI for a while after starting would lead me to believe you have a bad sending unit or a sticky gauge.The truck sure wouldn't last long at 0 PSI,it would sieze up,and you know you had no oil pressure,even over the diesel racket.

    One other thing to do is get an oil sample taken.A minor amount of diesel fuel or coolant dilution will cause a loss in viscosity without being visable on the stick.This will cause low oil pressure when it gets hot,as the oil begins to break down.
     
  10. John DiMartino

    John DiMartino PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,154

    Dito, what Peican and Wyldman said,go can pick up a good test guage for about 75 bucks.Dont trust your trucks guage. The oil sample is a great idea,IMO .We had a few 6.2's in our family,and the all ran way over 100K wihtout onay trouble,one blew head gaskets but that was it.
     
  11. TLS

    TLS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    Robert,

    Seems to be a gauge problem, but you never know! Make sure your running a good 15W-40 diesel engine oil.

    Don't know if you are a member already or not, but you owe it to your truck to check out www.thedieselpage.com

    If you do find that you need a rebuilt 6.2/6.5 check out a company called Diesel Depot out of Sandersville, GA 800-553-8192 Ask for Jamie or Benny Avant. They have used and rebuilt 6.2/6.5's available in addition to custom hot rod versions. If anything it'll be a quick way of getting rid of all those nasty oil leaks!!
     
  12. TRUP

    TRUP Member
    Messages: 38

    Thanks for all the advice:) Based on the length of miles that I have HAD TO RUN at 0 psi, it sounds like a gauge issue. One time I ran for over sixty miles at 0 psi before I could stop someplace! I kept thinking, "it's gonna blow, it's gonna blow!" but alas the truck still run today. I just purchased an oil pressure sensor to put in this weekend. I'll y'all know how I make out. THANX!
     
  13. frogking

    frogking Junior Member
    Messages: 3

    rebuild

    This really depends on where you live. I had an AMC 401 rebuilt in Texas before I moved to Nebraska because it cost $1700.00 in Texas and $3500.00 in Nebraska. Depending on your skill level you may just want to go to Autozone on Checkers or wherever and buy a long block so all you have to do is swap your intake an injection system. I have seen them for as low as $800.00 for Chevy 350, I dont know about diesels though.
     
  14. snowflake

    snowflake Member
    Messages: 86

    stay away from auto zone or any of them so called wanta-be parts store rebuilts
    the repair shop that i used to work at we had a contract with auto zone for there motor warenty work what a joke of a motor program they have. did about 3 to 4 warenty jobs a week for them. very poor quailty .
     
  15. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    I'll second Jasper. Never had a problem with mine. Never heard any complaints from my buddy's shop that installed dozens of them.

    I can tell you to stay away from ATK, they are nothing but trouble. I went through 4 myself, before going to Jasper.

    ~Chuck
     
  16. TRUP

    TRUP Member
    Messages: 38

    Replacing the oil pressure sensor corrected the problem. As far as rebuild cost go, a 2.5L 4 cylinder costs approximately $1200.00 here in northeastern Ohio. Double the number of cylinders, double the price, and you have a guesstimate of what a V8 rebuild would cost... Thanks once again for all the advice.:)