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How hard is it to install a fisher 8' on a Chevy k2500?

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by SolsticeLandscp, Sep 14, 2009.

  1. SolsticeLandscp

    SolsticeLandscp Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Hey, I have a 99 K2500 (8 lug) and was wondering if anyone had any advice on how hard or easy it is to install a plow on it? I have looked for complete set ups used but have only found them at a few places.

    http://maine.craigslist.org/pts/1373371620.html seems to have the best deal, 2,500 for everything needed and a 8' mm one in good condition. Installation is another 250. Is it worth paying for that? Thanks for any help.
     
  2. mcwlandscaping

    mcwlandscaping 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,557

    That's who i bought my first plow from. Not a bad guy, never met him though as someone else picked my plow up for me. Anyway, I hope that MM1 is in real good shape for that. And the plow install on that truck is a piece of cake, I don't know exactly where you are but i could help you with it if you wanted to bring it here. $250 is not a bad install price at all though.
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2009
  3. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    How hard is it? All depends on how mechanically inclined you are and what tools you have available. Good Air compressor, Impact, air drill, standard and metric drive sockets and possible a set of torches just for the mount.

    I usually tell anyone who hasnt installed a plow before to plan on making a day of it. So $250 isnt to bad a deal.
     
  4. SolsticeLandscp

    SolsticeLandscp Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Thanks for all of the information. I don't have an impact drill, a good air compressor or torches so $250 might be worth spending. Is a torch a necessity? Because I can usually get by with a breaker bar on most repairs.

    And thanks for the offer mcwlandscaping, I will probably post some pictures if I have questions about installing it if I deiced to do it.
     
  5. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    A bottle of MAP gas might get you by, usually just need it for some of the bolts for the bumper since the bumper has to come off. Truct me, a breaker bar wont get some of them.

    The electrical isnt to bad so maybe do that part and have just the mount installed by someone with the tools that are needed.
     
  6. Bruce'sEx

    Bruce'sEx Senior Member
    Messages: 873

    I could be wrong but on a chev 2500, I don't see why the bumper would have to come off to install minute mount truck side mounts. I know I've not yet taken a bumper off to install mounts on a 2500.
    normally just 3 or 4 bolts each side on the frame in exisiting holes, no cuting or drilling. well maybe cutting the plastic on the lower side of the bumper but thats not a big deal.
     
  7. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    I had the old classic body in my head when thinking of this mount. Your right, no drilling. Will have to cut the lower portion fo the air dam.
     
  8. SolsticeLandscp

    SolsticeLandscp Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Its the c/k series and there isn't much plastic under the bumper. Hear is a photo of the truck. Is the air dam the black plastic thing under the bumper?[​IMG]
     
  9. SolsticeLandscp

    SolsticeLandscp Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    hope this works [​IMG]
     
  10. Bruce'sEx

    Bruce'sEx Senior Member
    Messages: 873

    Could be drilling holes in the frame on that for the mounts, but 90% sure the bumper has no need to come off. I've not install minute mounts on that body style,
     
  11. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    6 holes to drill. Sometimes you can come from the front and get a wrench inside the frame sometimes you cant.
     
  12. mcwlandscaping

    mcwlandscaping 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,557

    If it had the center caps still on it would look exactly like my 97' when i bought it! I can't tell in the pic but if the lower air dam thing isn't taken off, take it off, it will look better! And then would not need to be cut when doing the plow install. And no you don't have to take off the bumper but you do have to drill. Still not a hard install at all though.
     
  13. SolsticeLandscp

    SolsticeLandscp Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    I bought a plow, and am going to install the wiring harness soon. There are 4 wires that need to be spliced, each blinker, parking light and one to power the control unit inside the truck. Could I run the power to the controll unit directly to the seloniod? Or would it be to much power for a (10?) gauge wire?

    Also where is the best place to go through the fire wall? I would prefer not to drill a hole. And when you splice into the blinkers/ parking light do you just peel back the coating of the blinker wire and wrap the harness wire around that? Thanks for all the help.
     
  14. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,412

    That's the classic body... you're going to wind up taking the bumper off to get the mount installed. Still not that big of a deal though.
     
  15. NHresident

    NHresident Senior Member
    Messages: 285

    I'm pretty sure u'll need to take the bumper off to access the inner frame rail.So u can get the nuts on the bolts that go up towards the motor.Instead of splicing go to a auto parts store and ask them for -Scotch locks--Once u see one u'll appreciate using them/instead of splicing.U can run the constant pwr lead to the fuse box that sits on the drivers side fender inside the engine bay/towards the fire wall there a couple accessory pwr bolts/just use a eyelet.MAKE SURE u use a inline fuse aswell Good Luck
     
  16. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,412

    I splice the turn signal and parking light wires with uninsulated butt splices, then solder and heat shrink. Twisted wires and tape, scotch locks, etc. quickly wind up turning green and not working. The uninsulated butt splices are what comes with a headlght wiring kit from Fisher or Western.
     
  17. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Bare connectors and shrink tube or butt connectors with the shrink tube on it is the only way. Corrosion will get in there if you use the scotch locks.
     
  18. SolsticeLandscp

    SolsticeLandscp Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Do you splice into the blinker wires creating a T or does the plow harness compensate for the cut wire and send the signal to the blinker?
     
  19. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,412

    You splice in... keeping the vehicle's original wire intact.
     
  20. SolsticeLandscp

    SolsticeLandscp Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    I was looking at a fisher diagram on their website for the push plates and I don't have a bolt bar. Do you have to use one of those?