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How hard is installation?

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by gmcsierra1500, Jan 23, 2006.

  1. gmcsierra1500

    gmcsierra1500 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 150

    How hard would it be to install a 7'6" ultramount pro plow on a 2000 GMC 1500 reg cab short bed? and how much of the bumper would I need to cut off?
  2. LDA

    LDA Member
    Messages: 38

    check westerns website for the installation manuals for that plow and truck combo, thats what i did, i did everything myself with some help from others here on plowsite and im sure jeff (crash935) will have some advice for you as well
  3. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Heres the link for the instructions,


    Its pretty much like it says, remove the grill, pull the bumper off (i usually trim it after the mount is installed), put mount pieces in place (use a floor jack here to hold them while you mark the holes and make sure you mark them so they are squre to the truck and so that you can find the center of where the hole should be), pull mount back down, drill holes (4 total) put mount back into place and bolt up. This is where you call your buddy over for a cold one. place the bumper back on the truck, your buddy will need to hold it because it will lean lut at the bottom and will want to fall off onto your melon. Get your Sharpie out and mark whee the bumper needs to be cut at, a jig saw works great, just make sure you dont cut more than you need, its easier to make several cuts than to buy a new valance.

    The electrical can be a little harder, depending on if you have a relay harness or a iso harness. The relay can be intimidating with 30 different terminals on the relays with 30 different wires to go to them, the iso is pretty much plug and play. Can get you the instructions for either and tips if you let me know which one it is.

    Hey LDA, good to see your still here, hows things working for you, no problems i hope, just hope your making some $$$ with that truck.
  4. GripTruk

    GripTruk Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    On my 97 with iso module it took me two solid days to do the install. actually, lets say 16 hours, just so you know what 2 solid days means. It actually took about 2 or 3 hours longer than it should have because I did the electrical one day and the frame mount another day so i had to take the grille on and off twice instead of just once. I'd say the electrical took about 5 hours, and the frame mount took about 10 - 12. I borrowed my friends snap on pneumatic drill and used brand new drill bits so that saved some time as far as drilling. I also have an impact wrench so that helps as well. At the minimum you should have a test light but a volt meter with a continuity tester will be helpful if you have to troubleshoot.

    My time does not include assembling the plow itself so i'd probably add a day if you need to do that.

  5. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    I usually tell someone whos never done an install to plan on spending the weekend on it. Most of the time comes from not knowing where to find all the bolts that keep it together or where to run the wires or splice the wires.

    do yourself a favor, go out a look at the truck, you will have to take the grill out, take the bumper off, take the headlights and marker lamp assy off, run wires into the cab, hide realys or an isolation module, mount the solenoid close to the battery (but in a secure area). Your going to need meteric sockets (15 and 18mm), standard wrenchs and sockets (5/16, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4), Impact, drill and bits (1/4, 1/2 or touch larger, 5/8), Phillips screw driver, wire cutters and strippers.

    Take a look at the instructions and the truck NOW to see if you can figure out how things come apart, before you start anything and if you have any questions, come back here and ask. We will do what we can to make this as painless as possible.
  6. GripTruk

    GripTruk Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    Exactly, I forgot to mention that. Probably 2 to 3 hours at least were dedicated to head scratching about where I was going to put the Iso module, where I was going to mount the solenoid, and which way I was going to route the wires. I could easily do another install on the same truck in half the time without a doubt. I would look up tips on how to remove the grille online somewhere maybe that fullsize chevy forum, I spent a bit of time figuring out how to remove the grille and headlights without damaging them.

    I feel like I also remember needing a 19mm wrench, I did not have a 1/2" extension and it would have saved lots of time if I had maybe an 8 inch 1/2" extension because it would have allowed me to use my impact wrench in some places I couldn't fit it and had to resort to a standard ratchet or box wrench.

    My install required 1/2" and 7/16" drill bits, as were listed in the instructions, so I bought those new. I also needed to drill 2 holes to bolt in the solenoid (maybe 1/4") and I used a unibit to drill though the firewall to run the controller cable. If you don't have a unibit, this is good a time as any to get one, you'll thank me later, money well spent. Another great tool that I can no longer live without is a set of ratcheting wrenches. I got a nice Blue-point set (made by snap-on) from my friend when I helped him set up his shop, I may never have spent the money on them, but they are SO usefull, I highly recommend you add a set to your toolbox if you do any amount of mechanical work. I only resort to a regular ratchet as a last resort now since the angle is so much better with a wrench.


    Just FYI, I'm pretty sure that the solenoid MUST be mounted so that it has a chassis ground, I don't believe they mention that in the instructions, but there were lots of good places to mount it that did not have a chassis ground, and the location I wound up using was less than idea as far as access, so you might be tempted to mount it somewhere plastic, but that will not work. It must be bolted directly to metal on the body.

    Last edited: Jan 24, 2006
  7. LDA

    LDA Member
    Messages: 38

    Hey jeff,

    Yea everything is workin great, turned up the t-bars, added timbrens, Installed dual batterys still think i may need a larger alternator, put a snow deflector on the plow. ALso added some extra backup lights to the truck.

    Definatly not makin a whole lotta money with the winter we are having, its prolly a lil better on that side of the state with the lake effect.

    Hopefully i can get some pics soon so you can see how it turned out.

    How did your buddys rig turn out?
  8. LINY Rob

    LINY Rob Senior Member
    Messages: 478

    ford is kind enough to install a removable plastic plug for the firewall, you can remove it, drill your hole quite easily, run your wires through it, and pop it back on. Quite pain free.

    I ended up using a unibit to drill my frame rails, after I started with a smaller pilot hole and worked my way up the drill index with standard drill bits I remembered I had the unibits in the toolbox, so I figured let me give it a shot, the unibit went through the frame like nothing, didnt have to change the bit once.

    I found the western directions make the wiring to be more then it is, I spent some time scratching my head until I realized how simple it actually was, all the different configurations confuses things IMHO.

    Just make sure you have some larger sockets and wrenches, some of the ones needed would not be in your everyday toolbox.
  9. Rgory

    Rgory Member
    Messages: 64

    Solenoid needing chasis ground?

    Hey Just cruious.

    I installed my ultramount with the relay set up on my 01 Dodge. I ended up mounting the Solenoid to the plastic battery case. I saw that someone mentioned having a chasis ground is that just for chevy's or iso set ups? Sorry just a newb question. And finally can I leave it where it is at and just run a jumper wire to chasis ground? Thanks guys.

    p.s. the plow/lights/pump everything works great

    Thanks again guys,
  10. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Rgory, no its not neccesary to mount the solenoid for a chassis ground, the small black/orange wire at the solenoid is a ground and returnds to the battery.

    LDA, At least its all together, would send you snow if i could, havent had much here lately, mostly salting events. Got the other guys truck all together and works great and was able to get him some extra work. Would love to see pics.
  11. LINY Rob

    LINY Rob Senior Member
    Messages: 478

    remember to be generous with the anti-seize on all bolts
  12. Rgory

    Rgory Member
    Messages: 64

    Thanks Crash


    I would be lost without this site. I am really glad everyone is generous and very helpful. It is a great resource for anyone in the industry.

  13. 99 z71Silverado

    99 z71Silverado Member
    from Chicago
    Messages: 41

    i just did the same exact set up on my 1999 chevy silverado ext cab in the beginning of the season. the bracket was very easy to install... i thought it was going to be a lot harder.(we used spray paint to mark where we needed to drill the holes for the kicker bars because we weren't able to get a sharpie to the hole)

    I have the relay harness and i assembled it first in my house to see how everything went together(it helped a lot to # the relays with a silver sharpie). then i disassembled it a did it all over in my truck. This also looked like it was going to be way harder then it actually was. the hardest part was geting the controler harness into the cab. Me and my buddy did the complete install in about 8hrs. and that was taking our time... Worked first try no problems

    P.S. i didn't have to take the bumper off because i have a body lift... all that had to come of was the lower plastic valance

    have any question just ask
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2006