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How can I use my dump pump for my plow?

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by dodgedump, Jan 5, 2006.

  1. dodgedump

    dodgedump Member
    from MASS
    Messages: 38

    I presently have a dump and a PTO. I pull the knob and the switch controls up and down on the dump and I push the knob and it controls up and down on the plow. How can I hook this up to my angle cylinders? I have a Fisher plow. Thanks
     
  2. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    You will need to plumb the plow circuits with an open center return to allow fluid flow when valves are closed, so that valve must support that. (as opposed to closed center which blocks fluid flow unless a valve is open and therefore a ram is moving). you will need a larger res tank, a snowplow valve body and plow control stick al'la old style Fisher. So, the valve sends fluid to either the lift ram (dump) or the plow control valve, which is 2 valves in one body, and the plow control valve sends fluid to the lift ram (plow) OR the angle rams.
    remember the PTO is driven off the transmission so it is based on transmission shaft rotation- unless you're moving you will have NO hydraulic pressure (step on the clutch when the bed is raising and it stops) That means when you are stopped at the end of a push and want to raise the blade you need to shift to Neutral and release the clutch.

    It also means the slower you are driving the less hydraulic pressure (actually flow rate is the important thing but will be effected the same) you have to move the blade- meaning slow blade movement. Annoyingly so.

    Every follow a hydraulic salter on the roads- when they stop at the light the sand spreads terrible, and the pattern changes wildly as he goes through the gears.....
    Put on an engine pump it's more constant for plow use (constant RPM band and flow rate)
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2006
  3. Pusher Joe

    Pusher Joe Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Not the best way to go.Fisher pumps are very reliable. Get one it will save you from future problems.:nono:
     
  4. dodgedump

    dodgedump Member
    from MASS
    Messages: 38

    Well I can operate the dump and plow up and down now with the car stopped and not running. The car doesnt have to be running. Can I get a valve that has one inlet and take the hose that is presently going into my lift on the plow and put it in the inlet. I will need three outlets and 2 solenoids I guess? Where can I find these valve bodies and does it need to be from a fisher? Thanks
     
  5. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Your Dump is Electric over Hydraulic?
     
  6. dodgedump

    dodgedump Member
    from MASS
    Messages: 38

    Yes it must be electric but I know I have hydraulic fluid in the reservoir. Im not too familiar with all this stuff it is new to me. All I know is that the switch lets the dump go up/down and Ill pull the knob on the PTO and there is another hose that goes to the lift piston on the plow and the switch controls the up/down there. Basically the PTO is just a little valve box that switches from dump to plow. There has to be a way to add an angle block?
     
  7. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    Then it's not PTO- PTO is Power Take Off- it's mechanical- runs off the transmission or transfer case. If you can operate the dump with then engine off it HAS to electro-hydraulic. If you have solinoids it's electro-hydraulic.

    IMO you're asking for trouble- those dump setups are not meant for constant use like a plow setup will give it.

    You probabily should talk to a local hydraulic supplier- farm supply/industrial supply/whatever you have locally. They can let you know what you'll need quickly and what it will cost you.

    The knob you are pulling (marked PTO I guess) is only a valve- it's controlling the fluid flow in or out of the dump lift ram.

    Yes: you will need some sort of soliniod valve block (ideally made for plows so you have float on the lift circuit) and run the hose that goes to the plow lift ram to the soliniod block- then you will have one circuit controlling the lift (one hose out to ram none back from ram) and one circuit controlling angle (2 hoses out one to each ram and none back from rams)

    You're looking at a quasi-complicated setup from scratch.....
     
  8. dodgedump

    dodgedump Member
    from MASS
    Messages: 38

    Whats a good price to pay for a pump setup. What do you think about the belt driven setups. My plow says model G on it so I am clueless what pump will work. Thanks alot for the help guys! Im new to this.
     
  9. dodgedump

    dodgedump Member
    from MASS
    Messages: 38

    Here's what I have.

    pump1.JPG

    pump2.JPG

    pump3.JPG
     
  10. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    I am sure you can find Fisher pumps and systems many places, northerntool has belt driven hydraulic pumps for engine mounting, most farm supply places will have a valve body that will work. Best advice I can really give is search the web and search companies that sell hydraulics- especially surplus hydraulics. There is another company I get catalogs selling surplus hydraulics- I'll look for the cat tonight.