1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Homesteader won't droop far enough on ZR2, Ideas?

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Timothy_Leary, Dec 18, 2003.

  1. Timothy_Leary

    Timothy_Leary Junior Member
    Messages: 3

    I have a Fisher Homesteader on a 2000 S10 ZR2. It works fine on level ground, but when I plow over the smallest rise, the blade leaves the ground. This happens even in float mode. I scoped it out and the raise/ lower ram is bottomed out and has no more travel. I'm sure this is because the plow was designed for an S10, not a ZR2, which sits approx 3"higher. As far as I can see, I have 2 options:

    1. Extend the mounting bracket for the bottom of the ram. This would allow the blade to droop farther, but would not allow it to raise as high, and increases the forward tilt of the blade as it rides along the ground over said rise. The blade already seems to be tilted forward an awful lot.

    2. Add spacers between the truck frame and the plow attach frame to lower it a couple inches. This seems to be the best idea, because it would remedy the forward tilt problem as well as alleviating the lack of droop. I was thinking mebbe square tube steel spacers/grade 8 bolts. My main concern here is strength. Is adding spacers feasible? Will doing this weaken the mounting to the point that it might break?

    I know there are other members on this site plowing successfully with this combo. How are your mounts modified ?

    Anybody got any other ideas? Your help and suggestions would surely be appreciated!

    TIA!
    Mark
    West Bath. ME


    __________________
     
  2. mavrim

    mavrim Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    I replied to your other post. Please post pics of your plow setup so I can get an idea of what may be wrong.
     
  3. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    does this system use a lift chain?
    Dino
     
  4. ZR2plower

    ZR2plower Member
    Messages: 91

    That is just what I was thinking. If it has a lift chain just lengthen it.
     
  5. 99zr2

    99zr2 Senior Member
    Messages: 271

    I got the same thing on my s-10. I also had the same problem. The way i fixed it was to make the mount that the ram attaches to on the a-frame. I do believe that they are 31\2" long and the hole is at about 23\4" up from the a-frame. I did lose about 4" worth of rise but I can now plow my drives that have steep grades right off the road with no problem. I can take some pics and post them tomarrow.


    Josh 99zr2
     
  6. mavrim

    mavrim Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    I have an idea that might help ?

    I have seen meyer and western plows that were installed on lifted trucks. What they did was to modify the two tongues that the plow pivots on. Most of the trucks I saw had a piece of steel welded along the widest part of the A frame and the mounting tongues were raised from their stock position. What this did was allow the A frame to sit at the correct horizontal position while the raised tongues mated to the attachment points on the truck mount. I know the pivots are not called tongues !

    I have no clue what the actual name is so I called them tongues :D

    I would like to see some closeup pics of this homestead plow ! Fishers web site was vague.
     
  7. 99zr2

    99zr2 Senior Member
    Messages: 271

    well here you go

    truck with plow 009-1.jpg
     
  8. 99zr2

    99zr2 Senior Member
    Messages: 271

    A nother

    wheling pics 002-1.jpg
     
  9. 99zr2

    99zr2 Senior Member
    Messages: 271

    and the last

    truck with plow 007-1.jpg
     
  10. mavrim

    mavrim Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    WOW, thanks for the pictures !

    I like the giant rubber band spring replacement idea, that has to save quite a bit of weight compared to springs. The two springs on my meyer trimline are pretty heavy ! I was thinking of adding a third spring to my plow to help with heavy wet snow and hardpack. I planned to add a support bar across the upper two eyebolts and adding a center eyebolt for the third spring. The bottom would need two support plates welded onto the pivot bar.

    I see where you replaced the shorter lift cylinder brackets with taller ones. You probably could have made two shackle plates that attach to the lower bracket and the cylinder with bolts. Shackle extension plates would work since the plows weight is pulling down on the cylinder. That would be an easy bolt on solution ! Another solution would be to get a new cylinder with a longer stroke.

    Where is the hydraulic pump located ? Is it above the lift cylinder or inside the engine compartment ?
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2003
  11. mavrim

    mavrim Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    You could probably add another one of those rubber bands if the blade is not scraping hardpack too well. Is there room for the band to go in the center ?
     
  12. 99zr2

    99zr2 Senior Member
    Messages: 271

    hey mavrim
    I just made the longer brackets because it was easier for me. Shackles are not a bad idea though. I thought of a different piston but didn't know were to look and money was a issue too. the pump ie mounted on top of the plow gear.
    Those rubber bands are adjustable. There is a tentioner on the bottom of the bar they are mounted to. Mine are adjusted all the way tite. I dont belive there is any room or a way to move them to the center.


    Josh 99zr2
     
  13. mavrim

    mavrim Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    I had meant that you could possibly add one more of those rubber bands in the center for better scraping of hardpack and heavy wet snow. It looks like the top has a removable bar with cotter pins. You could substitute a piece of pipe to go across the bottom rubber band mounts and then slide one more rubber band so that it is in the center. It doesn't look like it would hit the lift cylinder in the up position if it had a pipe going across the lower section.

    What pump does this have ? Is it the standard hydropak or whatever they call it ?

    A longer cylinder shouldn't cost more than $70 - $80, I think ? What is the size of your lift cylinder (stroke length and diameter) ?

    Also, moving the lower mounting bracket out further torwards the front of the plow may help with lift height as well as drop ? You would have to manually hold the lift cylinder out a few inches and see if that would help before modifying it.
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2003
  14. Timothy_Leary

    Timothy_Leary Junior Member
    Messages: 3

    Mavrim et al thanks for all your help on this! 99ZR2 I'm going to have a ram mount extension made up like you have. Thanks for the measurements! If its not too much bother, could you please measure the spacers at the front of your plow mounting frame where it mounts to the truck frame? I dont think my installer spaced the front of the frame down far enough, cuz your A frame looks a lot more level when your blade is sitting on the ground.

    Again, thank you all for your help, I really appreciate it!
     
  15. mavrim

    mavrim Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    99zr2's blade is more level because he extended the mounting bracket. Because the upper front frame mount is rotated from what fisher shows I think that helps to lower the truck mount somewhat ?

    As for extending the lift cylinder, try the shackle idea I came up with. Make 2 steel plates with a hole drilled in each end. Bolt the plates on the outside of the A frame mount and put some spacers or washers on the inside where the cylinder attaches. I can make a drawing if you don't understand.
     
  16. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    The problem with using the shackels is that the lift cylinder has a holding valve to keep the blade locked down the down position. The shackels wont allow the cylinder to hold the blade down the way it was designed.
     
  17. 99zr2

    99zr2 Senior Member
    Messages: 271

    ********

    That is kinda what I was going to say but the piston being able to lock really dont have anything to do with it. What does is that with the shackles after thinking about it for a while the original mount is not verry tall and just bolting an extention to it would cause it to rock front to back. I do beileve that I thought about that before and strayed away from it for that reason.


    Mavrim is right about the mount we took a look at it a couple days ago and the shop I had the plow installed at rotated the upper front mount, drilled new holes, and bolted back in place. The link I put up isn't working for some reason. It just shows you the mount for the plow.


    Tim
    I think that the reason the installer rotated the front upper mount is so the reciver mount would clear that plastic piece under the bumper.


    Josh 99zr2
     
  18. mavrim

    mavrim Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    Since I don't have this plow setup I did not realize that the cylinder locks. Perhaps you could make a pipe extention for the cylinder ? This would entail getting a piece of pipe that is large enough for the piston to fit into. Drill a hole and bolt this to the piston end. On the other end you would have to insert a piece of pipe that same diameter as the piston and mount that with a bolt to the lower mount. Pipes could be welded together or bolted in the center. This is only an idea without actually looking at the plow, so I could be way off base :p
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2003
  19. Timothy_Leary

    Timothy_Leary Junior Member
    Messages: 3

    Mavrim I like the way you think! I went out on Monday for an estimate to lengthen the bracket as 99ZR2 had done. The guy wanted 75 bucks to weld it up for me. Seemed a bit steep, so I put it off til after the holiday.

    Now you came up with the pieces of pipe idea. Sounds really feasible, doesn't require modifying any of the original plow equipment, still allows me to lock the blade for back dragging, and most of all, it's cheap. I'll give this a try this weekend and let you all know what I came up with and how it worked out.

    Thanks again to all who have offered me suggestions and ideas, I really appreciate it. Hope you and yours have a Happy Holiday!
     
  20. 99zr2

    99zr2 Senior Member
    Messages: 271

    That pipe idea is a good one too. Mavrim you do have good
    ideas.

    Tim
    Sorry that the guy you wanted to do the job was so steap in price. I was able to do it my self. I have all the tools and material on hand. If you were closer to my area I could of fabbed that mount for a lot less.

    Merry Christmas to all!!!!!


    Josh 99zr2