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Homemade Wings

Discussion in 'Equipment, Tools & Vehicle Pictures' started by sdaigh, Dec 20, 2010.

  1. sdaigh

    sdaigh Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Here is some pics of the wings i built for my Western 8.5 MVP.
    Wanted something quick to put on and off so the tube mounting is what i came up with, just pull the 1 pin in the upper tube and slide them out, only used them once so far and they worked great!
    The powdercoat is in great shape on my plow so i chose to bolt the tubes on the blade instead of weld them, we'll see how well they hold up (still need to upgrade it to grade 8 bolts)
    Used thick rubber for cutting edge so it'll give since my blade is a trip edge and not full trip.
    They add 9" per side when straight so it's 10' wide,... in full scoop it measures 8.5' wide with the wings on.

    My Wing Frame.jpg

    My Wing bare steel.jpg

    My Wing mounts.jpg

    My Wing backside.jpg

    My wing front view.jpg
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2010
  2. shott8283

    shott8283 Senior Member
    Messages: 258

    I really like that design!!!

    RBRONKEMA GHTFD 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,592

    Same here, it is a good design.
  4. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,264

    Looks great!
  5. South Seneca

    South Seneca Senior Member
    Messages: 473

    Any idea how much weight they add?
  6. KMBertog

    KMBertog PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,129

    I like how you mounted those! Very nice!
  7. snow patrol

    snow patrol Senior Member
    Messages: 163

    Nicely done!
  8. bullettooth81

    bullettooth81 Senior Member
    Messages: 103

    Awesome job!

    Looks alot like the wings Boss sells.

    THEGOLDPRO PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,136

    thats nice!!!
  10. sdaigh

    sdaigh Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    I just weighed one of them today and it's 36 pounds,... i went little over board on some of the metal on the wing itself... the side ribs are 1/4" thick (to match the factory ribs on the blade), the cross bracing is 3/16"x 2" flat and the face plate is 10 ga (which is where i really should've used lighter steel), not to mention that 1.5" thick rubber cutting edge isn't light either.
  11. CGM Inc.

    CGM Inc. PlowSite Veteran
    from Ontario
    Messages: 3,589

    Very nice work!
    Not sure if that round bar will hold up when yu hit a curb or such.
  12. fireside

    fireside Senior Member
    Messages: 657

    As long as the bolts are grade 5 stay with them they will act as a shear point if you hit something hard. They may bend a little were grade 8 will just start to rip the metal apart.

    RBRONKEMA GHTFD 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,592

    If you really want them to shear off if you hit something get grade 2. That's what the ebling shear bolts are.
  14. sdaigh

    sdaigh Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Well my intention is just to use these for more carrying capacity in bigger lots or where you have to push it all to one end, don't plan to have them on when working in areas where i could catch a curb, they come off easy enough anyways!!
  15. firefighter1406

    firefighter1406 Senior Member
    Messages: 328

    Do you have a set of drawings you work off of to make these or do you just fabricate and trial and error? I have been looking for a set of wings for my unimount 8.5 MVP also, and I cant find anything short of taking it to a metal shop and seeing if they could build me something, and who knows how much that would cost.
  16. mossman381

    mossman381 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,410

    Very nicely done. I went a little to heavy on mine too. I don't know what they weigh, but they are heavy. I guess over building them is better than under building them. I made mine removable, but to this day I have never taken them off.
  17. sdaigh

    sdaigh Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    I Just measured and fabricated them all on my own. copied the original outside blade rib for the inner and outer structure and then figured out how much angle i wanted them to kick forward and made cardboard templates of the cross bacing til i got it right then transfered it to steel. If i had to do it over i think i'd use thinner steel on the face and probably build them little higher off the ground so i have more rubber on the bottom (more to give and less chance of catching something to screw them up)
    Last night i had a good test for them, we had a good 6" snow here and had to help on a large lot so i had them on and was the push and pile truck, the other guys said i was pushing a very large amount of snow with them, i could move about 2-3 blades worth of what they were shoving in front of me with there western 7.5' plows. Guess it was higher than my blade and i only had it partially scooped forward so i was probably about 9' wide and the pile was about 7-8' out front of the blade and they held up great, even pushing it into the piles at the end of the lot!! I'm very happy with them, just hope the truck and driveline han handle the extra stress!!
  18. Pushinsnow

    Pushinsnow Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    You might want to add larger bolts and washers for the rubber edge. With alot of pressure on those edges, they can possibly peel off from the bolts. My pro wing rubber edge bolts and washers are beefy.
  19. South Seneca

    South Seneca Senior Member
    Messages: 473

    I put bigger washers on my Buyers. I also put an extra bolt in the top of the rubber on mine to keep them from tipping forward allowing snow and ice to build up behind them. My original bolts were at the bottom of the steel wing.
  20. WIplower

    WIplower Junior Member
    Messages: 5

    Very nice!!!

    I'm going to start fabbing a set for my Boss 7.5 straight blade this week. What you built is about what I have in my head for design right now.

    Where did you get the rubber for the cutting edge?