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homemade wings for xblade

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by cfdeng7, Oct 7, 2009.

  1. cfdeng7

    cfdeng7 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 376

    hey guys

    so heres the plan in my head. i have an 8 foot xblade and would like to increase its productivity with wings. i hate how the prowings look and mount and they just seem cheap. so im going to make my own. i plan on making frame following the x pattern on the back out of the same gauge steel. having a piece of stainless rolled to fit. i was thinking 30 degrees forward would be good and i plan on using a rubber cutting edge simmilar to the xls edges. i want the wings to add 6 inches to each side to make it a 9 foot scoop. i plan on attaching it with 3 grade 8 bolts that mount to the flat vertical ribs on the end of the blade. this will allow the wings to be removed rather quickly with a socket set but still allow a solid mount. the wings will stay on most of the time anyway. so hows this sound is 3o degrees enough? any pointers or ideas guys thanks alot.
     
  2. FordFisherman

    FordFisherman PlowSite.com Addict
    from 06611
    Messages: 1,593

    The advantage of the pro-wings is that in the event that you hit something, the wing takes the abuse rather than the plow. They hold up pretty well if you stay off curbs. I like your idea of mounting, but you could do some damage to your blade if you hit something (more like "when" than "if"). JMO
     
  3. cfdeng7

    cfdeng7 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 376

    hmm ya thats a good point but the xblade has got to be as strong as an xls? and thats pretty much my plan on copying. i plan on keeping the rubber as high as possible to try and minimize damage.
     
  4. cfdeng7

    cfdeng7 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 376

    u still think it will wreck my plow? or truck
     
  5. jomama45

    jomama45 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,172

    I built the ones for my skid steer plow in the same fashion as what your thinking. Couple notes:
    - 30 degrees minimum IMO.
    - Mine are bolted with 3 - 1/2" grade * bolts as well. I simply carry a 3/4" Gearwrench with to take them off. Actually is faster than dealing with the pro-wings & their hardware. The other advantage is they should be simpler to keep tight thru time, essentially less slop with wear.
    - I knew I was going to include the wings into my plow & made sure I had heavy ribs built into the plow to ensure this would work. I measured quite a few different plows, pick-up truck plows generally use 1/4" by 2" ribs. I used 3/8" by 3" on the plow & wing for extra strength. I figuered the 3" depth would help alot against leverage.
    - When laying out the bottom of the wing (the steel part) make sure it's approx. parallel to the ground when the plow is fully tripped, NOT DIGGING IN to the ground, or your going to wreck alot of stuff.
    - Good luck figuring out the outside edge of the wing, especially if adding an additional rib of some sort there. I spent hours (and alot of :drinkup:) scratching my head figuring the first wing out. The good news is that the second wing is cake.

    If you need any other info or measurements, I'll help if I can.
     
  6. cfdeng7

    cfdeng7 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 376

    its going on an xblade so its a trip edge not trip blade. and ya i plan on using pretty heavy gauge material. and i thionk i have a pretty good idea on the outside edge ill see if i can draw up a sketch
     
  7. jomama45

    jomama45 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,172

    I'm not sure how I missed the fact that it's a trip edge.:dizzy:
    That will make it easier for sure.
    Good Luck.
     
  8. cfdeng7

    cfdeng7 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 376

    haha ya it shouldnt be too bad i got the sheet of stainless rolled already and im going to use a set of boss ruber cutting edges and just fab up a frame around the cutting edges at a 30-35 degree angle. skin and be done shouldnt be too bad
     
  9. jomama45

    jomama45 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,172

    I take it your going to bolt/screw the stainless to the frame, or is the frame going to be stainless too?
     
  10. cfdeng7

    cfdeng7 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 376

    no just the moldboard is stainless the framework will be regular steel painted black like the xblade. and its going to be attached almost the same as how fisher does it on the plow. the stainless has the bend on the top like in the picture.
    http://www.centralparts.com/Common/.../FXB80SS-Fisher-8-X-Blade-Stainless-Steel.jpg

    so the top wil bolt on the top like that and the skin on the bottom is just going to get bolted with the same bolts the cutting edges bolt to the frame with. so it will just go through the cutting edges through the skin and bolt to the framework.
     
  11. c.schulz

    c.schulz Senior Member
    Messages: 202

    Did you ever get these finished? Im looking to do the same for my Boss straight plow. Pics would be great.

    Chris