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Homemade Comanche plow mount.

Discussion in 'Jeeps' started by cocco78, Dec 17, 2008.

  1. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    I'm in the process of building a plow mount for my Comanche truck and thought I'd post some pics of my build here. If anyone has any pics of mounts on Cherokee's or Comanche's please post them, I could use some inspiration. Anyway, i'm also making a winch bumper that will be separate from the plow mount. The plow hoop will bolt to the winch plate, i'll have to remove the winch in the fall and bolt the hoop in its place.

    Fell free to give me some feedback, good or bad. BTW, i'm using a meyer 6'6" plow for personal use only. I'm just copying and pasting from another website I frequent...

    Its a start. The whole hoop for the plow will bolt to the winch plate with 6 bolts. So in the fall the winch comes off and the plow mount can be bolted on. In the spring everything will come off with no trace of the plow stuff. And yeah the plow light mounts are a bit high!!

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  2. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    So here are the side plates for the plow mount, these are separate from the bumper and its mounts, again so it can all be unbolted. I'm out of metal now tho so i'll have to wait til monday to get more.

    this pic everything is sitting on the floor upside down.
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    here is is right side up.
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    here is one of the brackets that the plow carriage will mount to with some reciever pins, 3/8" thick. i'm going to weld these to a 2x2 square tube across the bottom. Then put in some triangulation to resist lateral forces.
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  3. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    2x4 rec tube for the crossmember that the plow a-frame will attach to. 1.5" square tube for my triangulation. Do you think that is enough or do I need to add more to it?

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    And of the obligatory weld pics...

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  4. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    Never fails, soon as I get motivated to be out in the cold and I start laying some beads down.... Out of fawking wire for the hobart :x Its to late to bother going to depot to get any.

    But I did try and test fit the mount to the Jeep. One big problem, I can't lift it and man handle it into position and hold it and so on. Balancing it on the floor jack was just as bad. All this led me to my next invention!!!

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    And just put Rod "A" in Slot "B".... Its a snug fit just the way I like it...

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    Its pretty much you basic geometric dimensioning and tolerance fixed pin scenario... I nailed the virtual condition of the pin, taking in account the perpendicularity and form tolerances, to the diameter of the hole on the floor jack, and so on. Its pretty standard stuff really :p

    Oh, and I started welding the tabs on the tube for the plow carriage mounts. I'm a little worried about crushing the tube right there so i'm going to add some plates on the top and bottom to spread out the load more on the rec tube...

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  5. ppandr

    ppandr Senior Member
    Messages: 619

    Nice and heavy ! Lets hope you can keep her runnin...wesport
     
  6. Plowlikehell

    Plowlikehell Member
    Messages: 73

    WoW!! Very nice and heavy design :drinkup: I did the same thing a couple years ago using a YJ mount. Just make sure the A frame lays flat when plowing or you will have problems with trying to move snow. Check the meyers website for the proper height. Here is some pics of mine.

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    I used this setup to plow my families homes, but was also borrowed out as a back up truck. Just make sure you support the lower bar as far back on the frame as you can.
     
  7. starc

    starc Senior Member
    Messages: 229

    Looks great, nice fabrication
     
  8. 04sd

    04sd Senior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 266

    Cocco, looks good, nice work.
    PLH, it looks like your plow is sticking out the front pretty far?
     
  9. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    This is pretty much where i'm at as far as the A-frame is, its about 1" higher in the rear then where it attaches to the plow blade. Not sure how it'll all work out tho, these older blades seemes like they are leaned back alot more than the newer ones.

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    Man its getting late in the year to be doing this! Its been snowing like crazy, my driveway is 4wd only lately!
     
  10. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    Got the girlfriend out there working on her bumper, cutting and welding...

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    And her first welds, needs a little practice but pretty good for her first time.

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    Didn't get **** done tonight, too cold and I have to go to bed early tonight. I did finish up a little work of jaemes on the bumper, grinding down her nice welds and whatnot...

    I started working on getting that old rusty meyers hoop to bolt down on the winch plate. I was trying to get the damn thing centered on there and couldn't :?: So I started measuring the hoop itself and its ******* crooked and the center tabs where the pump and lift arm mount are offset nearly 2".... So its officially scrap now. After all the work i've done so far there is no way i'm going to use a rusty, crooked, off-center, pile of booger welds :!: I'm going to fab up my own hoop, not sure yet on the way it'll turn out tho...

    Well here is the bumper anyway.

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  11. Plowlikehell

    Plowlikehell Member
    Messages: 73

    Here is the blurb I got from the meyers site

    On the E-Z Mount or Custom Mount the clevis height with a TM series plow will be 9-1/2" and with an ST or a C series plow it will be 10-1/2". The clevis height is measured from the ground to the center of the pin that connects the plow to the vehicle. On the MDII the measurement will be 11-1/4". This measurement is from the ground to the center of rear hole on clevis where the rear blue pin slides through. Note: These measurements are taken when the plow is on the ground or off the vehicle.

    I added v8 Springs after I was done with my install. That raised me 2 inches and plowing became difficult. Everytime I dropped the plow and started pushing snow it would lift the frontend. Then when you tried to pile snow, it would just dig in. I had to raise the plow and then it would pile the snow.
     
  12. 04sd

    04sd Senior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 266

     
  13. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    Thanks for the tip 04SD I will look at that. I didn't think much of the angle of blade as I seen a few other older ones like this. I'll look at that and see what I can do there. The mold board looks ok, I can see 2 outward dents on the face right about where it mounts to the pivot pins. I see some plows have a shock as well as springs, think that would be a good idea? 2 new springs and shock in the middle?

    More and more I keep thinking a used plow on my GMC might have been less hassle, but plows just seem to wreck these newer ifs trucks especially GM's and I need mine to last a few more years!
     
  14. 04sd

    04sd Senior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 266

    I never put a shock on any of mine but my brother did on his ST 7.5. Keeps it from slamming back. He's plowing his 1/4 mile stone/gravel driveway though so I'm sure he's tripping it a little more often than me :)
     
  15. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    So from the looks of some pictures I've found, when looking at the moldboard from the side lets say its "C" shaped. the top of the "C" should be a little forward of the bottom? I looked at my A frame and moldboard and I see where I should be able to just add a little metal and re-do the stop, for lack of better term. Right now my trip spring eye bolts are tightened all the way and both springs are loose, so I guess the blade is leaning way to far back. Luckily for me nothing looks broke.

    Oh and we just got a foot of fluffy white powder today!
     
  16. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    well I started piecing together a new hoop out of some 2x2x1/4" angle iron I had. Other than that I laid some more weld on things I had tacked together, and shot some more paint on stuff.

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    Here is the old hoop, it doesn't look that bad in the pics but it looks like poo in real life...

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  17. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    Google Meyer plow repair and click on the first link there is plenty of good info there on refurbing the plows.
     
  18. 04sd

    04sd Senior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 266

    I'm not sure of the official Meyer design spec, but in general I'd say the "C" should be straight up and down or maybe leaning slightly forward. This is with the A-frame level. Leaning forward a little makes the cutting edge less aggressive, might be useful if you plow gravel, and also makes the back drag a little more aggressive.
     
  19. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    Ok, I looked at my plow and the piviot pins all move freely and the main bolt that holds the A frame to the the other part of the plow looks good. But where the pivot pins are there are pieces of metal welded on that look a little bent and mushroomed. Looks like if I just add some metal there and adjust the springs I should be good to go! Everything else looks great, but I'm going to fix the welds a little bit where the angle rams mount.... I'll have some good pics up this weekend!
     
  20. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    Well the bumper isn't done yet but its getting there, the rest of it I wanted to finish it up while it was on the truck.. So basically this whole thing is 3 pieces, undercarrige, bumper, and hoop. We mounted it all up and all the bolt holes almost lined up! We got a ton of rain today and it wiped out alot of snow but forcast if for 6" of snow tonight. Tomorrow I mount the pump and start on the wiring. Oh and I have to make 2 braces on that hoop yet that goes forward just to sturdy that up, its mostly made of 1/4" 2x2 except for the bottom pieces that it gets bolted down by, thats all 3/8" 2x2

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    Last edited: Dec 27, 2008