1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

HELP! Water/Fuel Separator Issue!

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by AiRhed, Dec 31, 2007.

  1. AiRhed

    AiRhed Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    Last night my "Water in Fuel" light came on after a car wash. When I got home I put a bucket under the hose and drained the Fuel/Water separator. I then got distracted by some guests and didn't start the engine after draining the filter.

    This morning when I went out to start the truck, (16 Deg F), the water in fuel light came on again. After waiting for the fuel heater to do its business I cranked her over, she started like usual. And as I walked around the back of the truck it began to idle rough and then quit.

    Now the truck will not start. I've cranked it for 10 seconds every 30 seconds and it still wont start. I figured I have air in the system so I also loosened the low pressure line and bled the system properly and it still wont fire.

    Any ideas??

    -Mike
     
  2. RedneckPlowGuy

    RedneckPlowGuy Senior Member
    Messages: 120

    Crack injector lines 1, 3 and 4 (easiest to get to) at the head, and crank the truck until you see fuel coming out of one of the line, quickly shut the line and continue with other 2 lines until you see fuel from all 3 lines. This is easiest done with the help of another person, one working inj. lines and one working ignition. Im assuming you have a 98.5 or newer 24v truck? If you have a 98.5 to 02, when you bump the ignition and bump the starter your fuel pump will run for 30 sec. and help to prime the system. Id try that before you crack injector lines and see if that does it for ya. If not crack injector lines and see if that works. May take some time to get it but itll eventually go. Also, when you crack the lines, only crack then a lil bit so you dont get fuel spraying all over engine. Just enough to see fuel running down side of head below lines.Give that a try and then report back!
     
  3. AiRhed

    AiRhed Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    Thanks for the advice!

    I've got all day now! Work is only supposed to be a half day today. No sense in going in now.

    I re-bled the low pressure four times to make Darn sure it's air free and I cracked; #one #three and #four. But now both batteries are dead. They're old A$$ batt's so I'm going to purchase two new ones once I get her going.

    I'll keep you posted!

    -mike
     
  4. AiRhed

    AiRhed Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    Well I got it done, but It wouldn't have happened without the helpful advice of about four different pages including; www.mn-jeep.com/forum, www.plowsite.com, and www.turbododge.com. Thanks a bunch to all that helped get this fixed in ONE afternoon!

    Here's what I did for those who run into the same situation.

    This first part can be done by yourself.

    First I bled the Low Pressure side of the Fuel Delivery System.
    This basically involved loosening the Banjo Bolt on the Fuel Supply line and then priming the system a couple times until the fuel ran without being too frothy.

    To prime the system you basically have to turn the key to the "run" position and then quickly modulate ONE TIME from "run" to "crank" without making more than one crank. This lets the pump run for about 25 seconds and pushes fuel/air through the system and out the banjo bolt. Keep doing this modulation until fuel appears to flow without air from the banjo bolt.

    Once I was satisfied with the amount of fuel coming from the banjo bolt I tightened it down with a 17mm wrench, and then torqued it to the specified ft lbs.;)

    If the truck refuses to start after bleeding the Low pressure side the next step is to bleed the high pressure side.

    This step really needs two people. If it's in the middle of the day and no one you know can help. Do what I did, call your MOM! As long as she can at least turn a car over.:D

    To bleed the high pressure side I loosened the #1, #3, and #4 high pressure injector fittings. If the engine is cold fuel should not spray violently from these fittings, but wear eye protection and keep hands as clear as possible anyway.

    After loosening the fittings I had my MOM crank the truck over with the pedal to the metal until diesel began squirting from the #1 fitting. At first it was very frothy and after about 4 seconds it was pure diesel. I gave the command to stop cranking and immediately tightened the #1 fitting.

    I repeated the same process for #3 and #4.

    After tightening all the fittings to the proper torque I checked the engine compartment for diesel soaked rags, tools, etc. and cranked the engine till it fired. The engine ran rough for the first ten seconds and has since run fine.

    Thanks again! Especially RedneckPlowGuy!

    -Mike
     
  5. TEX

    TEX Senior Member
    Messages: 606

    glad you got it.