1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Help!! warped rotors

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by silverado96, Aug 26, 2003.

  1. silverado96

    silverado96 Junior Member
    Messages: 1

    My 96 silverado consently warps the front brake rotors. I've tried adjusting the rear brakes over and over. But it continues to happen. Anyone have any suggestions?
     
  2. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Welcome to Plowsite :waving:

    I'd check the hub runout first,as if the hubs are out,the rotors will be too,as they slide over the hub.

    If it's OK.I'd say you may need calipers,as they are hanging up,and overheating the rotors.It could also be the caliper slide pins,collapsed flex lines,sticking master cylinder or booster.Cheap no name rotors are also prone to warping,so if you used the cheap stuff,get something good from Bendix,Wagner,etc

    Start by checking the hub face runout and see how bad it is.You are properly tightening the wheelnut with a torque wrench right ? Improper torque can warp them as well.
     
  3. CARDOCTOR

    CARDOCTOR PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,310

    my wifes suburban had the same problem

    maybe up grade to a better rotor
    cross drilled to run cooler

    cardoctor
     
  4. Mike 97 SS

    Mike 97 SS Banned
    from U.S.A.
    Messages: 1,106

    Are you positive its the front rotors and not the rear brake drums? Are you getting steering wheel shake when you apply the brakes at speed or just pedal pulsation? If your not getting the steering wheel shake in your hands, its most likely coming from the rear drums. Also, what size Silverado do you have? I have a 1500 and my rotors are the slide off kind. On the 2500s that I have worked on, they are bolted and pressed on to the hub if I remember correctly and had to be taken over to the parts store where they have a machine shop to press off the old rotors, press on the new ones and give them a light cut. Its a much bigger process than just sliding off old ones and putting on new ones, like my 1500. Atleast if I get a bad set, I can switch them out in a matter of minutes, where as a 2500, its a nice little job and involves a machine shop. Mike
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2003
  5. snowjoker

    snowjoker Senior Member
    Messages: 283

    Mike you can hammer the rotor off after you take the whole assembly off the truck, Just replaced the rotors on mine. Thanks to wyldman's advise just hammering on the 4 bolts in the back of the hub/rotor assembly:drinkup:
     
  6. Mike 97 SS

    Mike 97 SS Banned
    from U.S.A.
    Messages: 1,106

    Ok, I can see hammering the old ones off because you are throwing them away anyway, but what about the new ones? Dont they have to be pressed on? I wouldnt be hammering on brand new rotors, knowing how much they cost and taking a chance that when you get all done, you will still have a pulsation. Mike
     
  7. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    You put a stack of washers on one of the studs, and put a lug nut on, and tighten it down some. Move it to the opposite stud, and repeat. Work your way around until the rotor is snug. At least that is how it is on 73 - 87 models. (You could also use a bunch of washers and a few nuts to speed up the process.) The washers are in case you have a problem, then you can cut the nut off, and drive out the stud.

    ~Chuck
     
  8. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    The rotors can be removed by driving the wheel studs out, that's all that holds the rotor on. The new ones are installed in rverse, by driving the studs in from the back. The old rotor makes a fine base for driving the new studs in. If you plan to reuse the old studs you will need to put a lug nut on them, run it down alsmot flush to the stud end and drive on that and not the stud itself when you take them out. The studs have to go in all the way to hold the rotor in place. Might even be wise to mount hte rotor/hub assemble to a wheel and run the nuts down tight to help seat the studs while you apply a BFH and punch to the heads.
     
  9. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Alan has the right way to do it.The rotors are not pressed on,only the wheel studs hold them together.A punch will remove and install the wheel studs quite easily.