1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

HELP!! Ultramount pro wont operate.

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by dave00diesel, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. dave00diesel

    dave00diesel Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 21

    Was plowing today and it stopped functioning but I could hear the solenoid clicking under the hood. I jumped from the battery to the motor and the motor runs. I checked voltage leaving the solenoid to the motor and it has power when trying to operate. Any help greatly appreciated.
     
  2. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,661

    Replace solenoid also check bumper connections.
     
  3. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    If you had power at the output of the relay (solenoid) but the motor doesn't turn, but turns when you boost directly then you must have a bad connection at the grill plug or a cut cable somewhere between relay output and motor positive. Probably the grill plug. I don' think you should change your relay yet because you say there is power on the output when you hit the controller. You can verify the relay is OK by putting your booster cable from the relay output side lug to the motor positive lug. If the motor spins when you hit the control the relay is fine and that further proves your cable or grill plug is bad. Save the $ and effort changing the relay until you have a solid reason to replace it.
     
  4. dave00diesel

    dave00diesel Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 21

    I unhooked the cables and have voltage on the truck side of the battery plug. I removed the plow side and checked continuity and it was fine. I hooked it all back up after cleaning everything and I get voltage but the motor won't run. When I do try to operate it my parking lights come on.
     
  5. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Still sounds to me like the motor is dead. If you have an ohm-meter check across the two motor terminals. There should be very little resistance. If it is almost infinite then the motor is open and needs to be replaced. Why the park light comes on is a whole other issue?
    Unless your motor ground cable is the problem???? You could be getting some sort of feedback. You never said if you have relays or an isolation module. If you have relays the plow should operate regardless of what the light relays are doing. Can you tell us if you have relays?
    Also, where did you put your ground lead for the test light / voltmeter you used to check for power at the motor positive lug? If it was on the vehicle somewhere you may have a bad ground cable from motor to battery. Test again but put your ground lead on the motor negative. If you still get 12v then the ground cable is OK and we are back to a bad motor. But if you get very low voltage for this test then you need to look at the ground side. Use a booster cable from the motor negative to the vehicle battery negative. If the motor runs now you need to find the bad connection on the ground cable.
     
  6. dave00diesel

    dave00diesel Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 21

    It's a relay style. I tested voltage on the motor leads...positive and ground. I haven't checked the resistance on the motor but I will in a few minutes. I used jumper cables from the battery to the motor and it did run.
     
  7. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,661

    Take a screwdriver and jump the two large terminals on the solenoid. Motor runs replace solenoid. If it doesn't look elsewhere, ie cables and connections.
     
  8. dave00diesel

    dave00diesel Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 21

    I just checked resistance on the motor and it was 0.2
     
  9. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    That resistance is within normal range I believe. Using ohms law (12V / .2 ohms) = 60 amps. But that doesn't guarantee the motor is good. When it's actually running normally it would be nice to put a clamp on ammeter on it.
    Looking like a bad cable or plug between the truck and the motor on the plow. Unless you were confused about having power at the output of the motor relay.
     
  10. dave00diesel

    dave00diesel Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 21

    I've tried a new motor and relay and still nothing. When I don't have the battery connection hooked up I get 12+ volts on the secondary output side of the solenoid but when I do hook it up I get maybe 1 volt. I've tried jumping both the old and new motor and nothing happens. I'm completely lost with this thing. I get 12+ volts on the primary wire to the solenoid anytime I try to use the controller.
     
  11. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    Did you jump the motor or the solenoid?

    Hook a negative cable from your plow motor to battery and see if it functions right.
     
  12. dave00diesel

    dave00diesel Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 21

    I've tried that
     
  13. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    Just the negative side?

    Also try from the motor to the solenoid output. Then from the battery to solenoid input.

    Did you jump then solenoid or the actual motor?
     
  14. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Now your story is indicating a bad connection between motor relay and battery positive. If u get 12 bolts on the output of the relay (when closrd) with the motor disconnected and only 1v when the motor is connected then u have a major bad connection probably where the positive relay cable connects to the battery. 12 down to 1 is an 11v drop. If your relay is new it must be a loose connection. Think of this like a garden hose. If the hose is on but the end of the hose is plugged there will b even pressure at both ends of the hose. Let's say 12 psi. Now if u step on the hose the water can't escape so the pressure will remain 12 psi on both sides of your foot. Now imagine opening the end of the hose to let water flow through your sprinkler. At this point your foot is still on the hose so the water pressure drops on the sprinkler side of your foot because the water runs out of the sprinkler faster than the water can flow past your foot. Same thing with your motor circuit. The bad connection is like your foot on the garden hose. The electricity can't get through fast enough to feed the motor but when u disconnect the motor there is no current flowing so the voltage is not depleted.
    If u have a voltmeter set it for 12v then hook the + lead to battery + post. Hook the negative lead to the hot lug of the relay. Since they are both really the same there should 0v until u hit the controller to activate the motor. I expect u will see 11v when the relay closes. That is the voltage u lost through your bad connection. Once fixed this test should read well under 1v.
     
  15. dave00diesel

    dave00diesel Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 21

    Ok I got it to work. I put new cables on it and a new motor. Now my problem is I can raise and everything fine a few times then it starts pulling the battery down and going very slow. Any suggestions? Thanks
     
  16. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    You replace both the battery cables?

    You might have a weak battery it sounds like
     
  17. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    It will either be too much draw or power feed problem. Verify your current draw if u have a clamp on amp meter. Also test your battery and charging system.
     
  18. dave00diesel

    dave00diesel Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 21

    I replaced both cables. I oncly have an ac amp meter so I will take it to get tested. It's actually working fine now but still going to test batteries and alternator. Thanks for all your help