1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Help K10 is hemorrahging motor oil!

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by Willy-D8, Mar 3, 2005.

  1. Willy-D8

    Willy-D8 Member
    Messages: 47

    I have an 86' chevy K10 with a 305. The oil pan is rusting through and leaking bad, very bad. Hot with the engine off, it leaks in a steady stream. Can use it barely when it is running as it just drips. Anyone have a suggestion of a sealer that will help me make it through this season? I have tried JB weld with poor results. I really don't want to replace the oil pan but if anyone has can they tell me about the procedure and the cost? I just want this truck to last a few more months so I can get rid of it. Cheaper the fix the better.
  2. Peopleeater

    Peopleeater Senior Member
    Messages: 249

    Oil Pan

    I don't think there is anything that you are gonna get to seal the pan. you would have to clean it inside and out just to get something to stick cause of the oil. If I were gonna patch it, I would take it off and weld it and grind again to make it look better. Would require it to be removed from truck I think, but maybe you could do it while it is on, but if any weld slag gets in the pan?? I would just drop it and put a new one on for the piece of mind. How easy will it be to get rid of if the oil pan lets all the oil go and you don't notice it in time? I would either replace the pan, or not even use the truck. Just my 2 cents though.

  3. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    There is stuff that is like bondo ( it's green) that your spread on fiberglass mat / cloth with wax paper backing and you stick to the hole,peal off the wax paper after it sets. AutoZone / Advance has it. You have to make sure the surface is clean and dry before placement. It does not sag or run like fiberglass. Big thing with anything is to make sure it's clean and NO OIL on the surface. Or take the motor mounts loose and jack engine up and replace oil pan.
  4. davidrbean

    davidrbean Member
    Messages: 49

    Replacing the oil pan is about a 2 hour job and a new pan costs about $100 Id just go with a new pan if it were mine
  5. rondoga

    rondoga Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    hmmm sheetmetal screws rubber washers ????
  6. jjdonovan

    jjdonovan Member
    Messages: 30

    99 F450 oil pan rusted thru also!

    Hello all,
    I had a similar problem with the oil pan on my f450 diesel early in the winter this year. Being a powerstroke replacing the oil pan means pulling the engine and transmission...dealer quote $1,200.
    My solution was to drain out all the oil the night before. Wash the outside and inside of the pan (as much as possible) with carb cleaner. use air pressure with a small tipped blow gun approx. 125 psi to blow off the loose scale gently sand the area with 60 or 80 grit paper. Again wash outside with carb cleaner oil free is a must for proper repair.
    I actually had to put a paper towel in the rust hole of my pan to help soak up and aid in draining the residual oil out of the pan.
    Once everything was sanded and oil free I started by spraying NAPA'S EXTEND on the rusty and bare metal I do like this as a primer on rusty metal.
    Next I cut some fiberglass cloth patches to cover well past the actual hole.I used a two part epoxy,(Scotchweld) but I am sure any two part epoxy that will work with steel will be just fine.
    I coated the patches with the epoxy and just laid them over the work site. Covered with wax paper,(it helped smooth out the epoxy repair) and taped with duct tape until cured.
    Next day removed tape and wax paper , painted with black rustoleum and the pan is still holding up just fine with no other rust break thru.
    This worked for me I hope it will for you also.
    Joe.D :salute:
  7. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    actually, an oil pan for a small block Chevy is less than $80.00. I changed one of my Chevy's a couple of years ago- not too tough and really the only good option. In the time you'll spend 'degreasing' the pan well enough to try patching it I'll have the old pan out and be starting to put the new one in or more.
  8. crashz

    crashz Senior Member
    Messages: 256

    Oil pan is so easy to do. Its not nearly as difficult as doing a Ford. I replaced mine on my GMC (big block pan) in a couple hours. I think that include the time it took to paint and dry too.

    BTW- how bad (rusty) is your truck and what are you looking to get for it? PM me if your interesting in selling it.
  9. Willy-D8

    Willy-D8 Member
    Messages: 47

    I'm leaning towards installing a new pan. Cost of the oil pan is not my worry. My biggest concern with this procedure is the mounting bolts that hold the pan to the block they are extremely rusty. If I start snapping them off in the block how am I ever going to get them out? This is my reason for just wanting to patch it for now. Has anyone else recently replaced a oil pan in this truck? Any advise on how to do the job the most efficiently would be greatly appreciated.

    I have to examine the whole thing closer tonight. Something will get done one way or another by Monday. Thanks for your help.
  10. Nascar Fan

    Nascar Fan Senior Member
    Messages: 167

    Rusty Bolts for oil pan

    I would be very suprised to see them snap off.Yes the outside maybe rusty as far as the head of the bolt but to snap off because of it? I doubt it.I have seen an oil pan that was rusted through both side nothing but daylight and the bolt heads were rusted up but they came right out.Just make sure you use Steady even pressure to loosen them don't try to jerk them with sudden pressure---like an air gun does.As far as snapping them off you could use an e-z out or drill and tap if you needed to Thankfully you have plenty of room uder the truck to work.If you run into snags give a yell we can help if you need it.
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2005
  11. wirenut

    wirenut Senior Member
    from nh
    Messages: 507

    take a long punch and whack the center of the bolts
    usually oil pan bolts arent tight... :drinkup:
  12. Chevytruck85

    Chevytruck85 Senior Member
    Messages: 228

    I would replace it its not that hard.
    but if you want cheap i would weld it
  13. Willy-D8

    Willy-D8 Member
    Messages: 47

    Thank you to everyone for the advise, suggestions and help. I replaced the oil pan today with the help of my brother and his shop in 3 hours. The job went pretty smoothly with only a few stubborn bolts that required an extractor. The whole thing cost less than a $100. The oil pan was $60 and and the gasket was a ridiculous $35. Now I just have to wait for something else to break/leak/rattle or fall off the truck next storm.

    Thanks again,
  14. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Good Job, the Chevy live's on.
    Don't hesitate to ask questions or make a good post, that's what this site's for.
    Even the oldest dog here can learn something or pass on wisdom!
    jjdonovan's post sounds like what I would have done.
  15. doug96

    doug96 Member
    Messages: 33

    same boat

    i woke up this morning to discover a puddle of oil
    rusted out pan :gunsfiring:
    oh joy
    then while poking around made the hole worse
    going for the j-b weld first, i just know it doesent stand a chance of holding,
    whats keeping me from changeing the pan is fear. first issue are oill cooler lines, i think they are in the way
    starter in the way
    exhaust crossover that will never come off
    the book is no real help,
    i am going to have to do it my self .. cant flip the bill on this one
    can hardly afford the pan at 80 bucks plus 25 for gasket

    its a 94 p\u 3/4 ton 350 4x4 the book even said front shaft has to come out , bellhouseing and supports

    all kinds of crap in the way
    all sorts of afraid to try it , but if J-B weld does not hold i have to go for it
  16. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    Never believe everything the book tells you.
    My father had 3 service stations back in the 70's- he specialized in European car service. Just one example- the local Jag dealer would send cars to him when they were over booked for warranty work AND send customers directly to him for certain jobs. Factory said fan belt replacement was a 6 hour job requiring removal of the front clip. He would do them in 2 hours without removing most of what the book said was needed.

    Anylize the job yourself. Last time I did it was on my 86 Dump- straight dual exhaust so no crossover, and standard tranny so no coolent lines but no bellhouseing issues back then- just a long extension for your ratchet. Get under and check it out yourself.
  17. lawnandplow42

    lawnandplow42 Senior Member
    Messages: 110

    do a search on this, i remember there was a good thread about an oil pan leak
  18. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    What about fiberglass impregnated bondo stuff? I have used some stuff that you spread on fiberglass cloth on wax paper. You stick it on and peel the wax paper off after it sets. Or BJ weld with metal window screen to bridge the gap and reinforce it. The big thing is to get the surface really clean, drain the oil, let it sit overnight,then wire brush and clean with acetone, lacquer thinner, alcohol - etc. Make the patch a bit bigger then the hole and you may luck out and it out lives the truck! I luck out all the time on stuff, I glued a spark plug back together with super glue back in high school and it went 20,000 miles.