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Help, fisher wont go down

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by aloe, Dec 19, 2011.

  1. aloe

    aloe Senior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 285

    hi all...hooked up the plow today...it was effin cold today! Anyway, all went well except the plow will not go down, just clicks!?!?

    it angles left & right and goes up with no problems. I have read about the original motors being iffy & cold weather being a factor. I did tap the motor with a hammer but it still just clicks.

    any ideas??

    oh, 6'8" fisher homesteader :)
     
  2. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,663

    Double check all your connections. Check for broken pins and corrosion.

    edit

    Not real familiar with homesteader but most plows do not run the motor to go down. Weight of the plow and opening the S1 valve is what allows the plow to go down. Does your plow have a quill adjustment? And has anyone messed with it?
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2011
  3. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,033

    Ok, first off, hitting the motor is not going to do any good when trying to get it to go down, due to the simple fact that the motor plays absolutely no role in that operation.

    Now, I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that you haven't changed your fluid lately?

    To cover all bases......

    First double check that your controller is plugged in snuggly. Then go to your grill and check your connections. Inspect your pins closely on the 3 pin control harness. If there is any junk in there, clean it with a can of brake cleaner or similar, then re lube with dielectric grease. If there is Ice and or water present, clean it out, and lube as well.

    Now, on the plow, remove the cartridge valve cover, you'll see three coils / valves. Each coil has two wires to each one, one ground, and one positive. Make sure they're all connected snuggly. Pay close attention to the top valve with the white and yellow wire. This is the S1 - two way valve that controls the down function. BE CAREFUL - keep clear of the blade in case it goes down unexpectedly.

    If all looks good, make sure the harness are connected at the grill, start the truck, turn the control on, put the plow in float mode (hold the down button for 4 seconds), Grab a screw driver and hold it up to the S1 valve (white and yellow wire going to it), does it have a magnetic pull to it?
     
  4. aloe

    aloe Senior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 285

    it does have a quill adjustment....the plow is used...so no idea if its been adjusted.

    Repo, I will double check all the plugs tm...there was some dirt & dust that needs to be cleaned out. No, the fluid has not been changed since I got the plow but it does look clean....maybe after christmas I can get new fluid in there.

    regarding the S1 valve test....if there isnt a magnetic pull, does that mean that the relay is bad, resulting in a stuck valve?
     
  5. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,033


    In all reality, if all the other functions are working, what you should be doing is checking for power at the white and yellow wire. BUT, it's important to run through the steps to clearly find the issue. Put the plow in float mode as described above, then check all coils for pull. The S1 valve should be the only one with pull.

    For me to run through all the scenarios before knowing the results....it just takes too much time. To answer your question though, if there isn't magnetic pull, and the other coils don't have magnetic pull while the plow is in float mode, .....and there is 12v at the white and yellow wire, then your coil is junk. If there is no power to the white and yellow wire, then you have a harness, connection, or control issue. If there is pull, then your valve is junk....or atleast compromised by bad fluid. As I said though, there are many scenarios.

    I'm almost 100% positive that you can't drop the blade by backing out the quill....unless of coarse you want to wait for all the fluid to drain out of the port after fully removing the quill. :D Not my idea of fun. From my understanding the check valve allows the fluid to go in, but not out, and the quill allows the fluid out, but not in. The problem is that if the valve which is located below this chain of custody, is not shifted for whatever reason, the fluid still doesn't have anywhere to go. In theory, if it's just a blockage, and you back out the quill, there maybe enough pressure there to push whatever is blocking it out...but chances are it won't, and if it does, it can just float on down stream to the other 2 valves. I would leave it be for the time being. Thumbs Up

    I'm going out on a limb here, but I think this will be a case of bad fluid, the recent drop in temps probably froze up the valve, or there is debris within it. Like I said....many scenarios. :nod:
     
  6. aloe

    aloe Senior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 285

    thanx guys....it is working as it should!!!
     
  7. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,033

    Let me guess, it just started working on it's own? Get that fluid changed or you might be in for a long winter.
     
  8. BigGuyRye

    BigGuyRye Junior Member
    Messages: 7

    Hi, I've been researching this problem because its been happening to me, I replaced the fluid and it has continued. It will stick in the up position occasionally and for various amounts of time although the stick says float. I have a few times gotten out of the truck and kicked the plow and it dropped then but most of the time it drops in a few seconds. The S1 coil does have magnetic pull to it. Would you recommend another fluid change or do you think the coil is bad? How easy is it to replace the coil or fix the problem? Thanks for your help!
     
  9. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,663

    I agree you can not drop the plow by removing the quill since it is after the S1 valve, but the plow will not drop if the quill is set too tight.



    When it does drop does it drop fast or slow? Does it get better after using the plow for awhile? What type of fluid are you using? How did the old fluid look?

    Check all your connections, make sure they are clean and put dielectric grease on them.
     
  10. BigGuyRye

    BigGuyRye Junior Member
    Messages: 7

    It drops normal speed, I used Fisher oil and the old stuff looked ok, not to dirty, kind of dark but still blue in color. I just got done taking out the s1 solenoid cartridge and inspected it and nothing looked out of order, the plunger moved freely, so I cleaned it and replaced it. All my connections are clean and tight and lubed.
     
  11. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,033

    I think Kimber is onto it, but I would go one further and take a pair of pliers to the female spade terminals on the S1 valve coil to ensure a tight connection there as well. Fully inspect the connectors at the grill, both the inside, and the wires behind the connectors.

    With the ram fully extended, does it show any signs of rust, or contamination on the ram itself?

    The thing to do is to test for magnetic pull when it does it again....while it's in float mode, and the blade is still suspended in the air (be very careful in paying attention to where your extremities are at all times). This tells you if it's getting the signal and if it's an electrical or control issue, or an internal pump problem.

    Short of that, you could remove the quill and check valve and let some fluid purge through for good measure. Back the packing nut off a bit. If there is rust or what have you on the ram, clean it up. The next time you drain the fluid, be sure to pull all the valves and clean out the bores for good measure. If your going to pull one valve for any reason, it's best to pull them all, inspect them, clean them and the bores thoroughly, especially on a straight blade. I've unfortunately learned the hard way......
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2012
  12. Orgnoi1

    Orgnoi1 Junior Member
    Messages: 3

    Looks like a great forum! This was exactly the post I was looking to find...
     
  13. iowaplower2003

    iowaplower2003 Junior Member
    Messages: 5

    im new to the site and was looking thought here seen this thread and thought i would share. i just had the same problem with my fisher mm1 and after doing some test (everything listed above) i found that i had a broken wire in the 3 pin plug. it was broken right where the wire enters the molded plug on the truck side. contacted my local fisher dealer and got a new pig tail with a plug for 60.00. hope it helps out!
     
  14. Orgnoi1

    Orgnoi1 Junior Member
    Messages: 3

    This is almost the same issue I had as well... also with a MM1... the pin that controls the lowering had corroded away and broke off on the three pin connector... the whole 3-plug system absolutely stinks and when I went to a local Fisher dealer to price out moving it over to a 2-plug I found it VERY cost prohibitive since I plow only our own driveway... I decided to go with a trailer style flat-4 plug to replace the whole 3-pin plug... so far it works perfectly... I took the time to solder and heatshrink the connections so that they should last...