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Heating up??

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by Sharpshooter77, Sep 2, 2007.

  1. Sharpshooter77

    Sharpshooter77 Senior Member
    Messages: 162

    O.k my 1995 F-350, with a 5.8 windsor has been having cooling problems lately. I noticed this when I was would get up to highway speeds the temp gauge would rise up at a good rate. Then if I slowed down it would could down. Now it has been doing it around town too. So I replaced the thermostat and it still heats up. Also I have not noticed the fan clutch kick on either. So I though it could be that too. And the radator was repalce about 2 years ago. Let me know what you guys think. THANKS for the help.
     
  2. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Is the fan engaging the first time it's started for the day? I replaced mine and it will engage for the first mile or so when it's cold. It should be engaging when it's up the gage scale too.
    It will make the engine sound like your running a gear lower then you are.I replaced mine without pulling the radiator too. The book says pull it.
     
  3. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Might get it to temp and rev the engine and make sure no hoses are collapsing.
    Remember the fan may have left hand threads on it. I soaked them for a week with pb Blaster before I even thought of doing the job. Be careful if you go to replace the water pump. I snapped 3 bolts off, I have wrenched for 30 years, so it's not a rookie mistake.
    Thread sealer cost's money, that must be why Ford didn't use it.
     
  4. Sharpshooter77

    Sharpshooter77 Senior Member
    Messages: 162

    hey Mick- I replaced the thermostat with a new one and that works good. Also today I put in a new fan clutch it was the server duty modle too. So I drove around town and the truck was fine but once I jumped up on the highway my truck started to heat up again. I was going about 70 or 75 mph and the truck was still running warm. So now what can I do. Other than replacing the radator. The thermostat is working the fan clutch is working fine you can hear that loud roar. And all of the hoses are good too. i am thinking at this point that there is a clog in the radator or its on its wayout. I am very confused at this point.
     
  5. Philbilly2

    Philbilly2 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,586

    Try pressure washing the radiatior. Where I live you pick up lots of bugs at night. 1/2 way through the summer, my a/c dosent work. All I do is pull off the grill and pressure wash the radiatior. Presto
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 10, 2007
  6. hydro_37

    hydro_37 PlowSite Veteran
    from iowa
    Messages: 3,790

    Do a good flush and clean of the entire system. Backflush the heater core too. Pressure washing the radiator is a good idea.
     
  7. Sharpshooter77

    Sharpshooter77 Senior Member
    Messages: 162

    Well guys today I gave my truck a old school coolent flushing. I got the little kit that you splice in to the heater hose and blow all of the crap out of the radiator. I was a good ten minutes of flushing before the water ran clear. This has really seemed to help alot. Also I took and power washed all of the crap out of the radaitor too. I was kind of surprized how much junk was in the radiator. THANKS for all of the help guys.:drinkup: :waving: :drinkup: :waving:
     
  8. Sharpshooter77

    Sharpshooter77 Senior Member
    Messages: 162

    O.k Thats It I can't take it anymore. I just had the truck up on the highway and it started to do the samething again. I bought this truck at the end of febuary, and the temp has always stayed near the NO in NORMAL. But up untill a few weeks ago it has been heating up around town and on the highway. In the in middle of june the bypass hose on the water pump blew and I replaced it and I was good to go. A little while after that I noticed the truck starting to warm up. Right now it is about 60 degrees outside so its fairly cool out. when I am speeding up on the highway is when the truck will start to heat up. this is weired you would think that the truck would stay cooler because there is more airflow on the highway, not in my case I get hotter on the highway and cooler in the city, Also there is no obstruction in front of the radiator either. The only 2 things that are part of the cooling system that I havent replaced are the water pump and the radiator. Guys I really need some help here I am open to anything at this point. THANKS
     
  9. dilligafdog

    dilligafdog Member
    Messages: 53

    well if you repaced the thermostat and the fan clutch, and flushed your rad. the only thing left if the water pump. is there any water weeping out of the small weep hole on the water pump? if so your water pump is junk. water pumps are cheap compared to the rad. the only other thing is to see if there is any drag with drive train. if i was you i would jack the truck up and check for excessive brake drag or bad wheel bearing's. check for any excessive drag in the rear axle, ect. if every thing spins freely try the water pump. i had a tractor that would heat up going down the feild, stop at the end it would cool down. it ended up the water pump. the water pump had a steel shaft with a plastic impeller, the plastic would heat up and spin on the steel shaft, just figure? just my 2 cents
     
  10. J&R Landscaping

    J&R Landscaping PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,202

    Do you have your fan running on the interior when this happens. My old Dodge dakota did this. Changed the thermostat, flushed the rad. and still. Though, if you turn the vent on and run the fan around medium or faster, it didnt heat up. In the end, it turned out to be the water pump.
     
  11. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Is it running out of the normal range or just higher then it did?
    Your not losing coolant are you? The radiator cap is not "hissing" when it's running hot is it? I had a Windstar with a bad head gasket that would run hot at highway speed. I knew it was none of the cooling system parts because they were done already. The blown gasket would force the coolant out of the jacket and the gasses would be venting out the cap.
    It sat in the drive running making coolant fog before I fixed it.
    Might try changing the temp gage too or the engine sensor. Get the O.E.M. dash gage from a junk yard. A new one is truly expensive! Or install an after market one.
    Having air in the system or a collapsing hose is not good either. You get what's called " Caveatting" which is air bubbles riding on the impeller. Caused by air or the lack of fluid supply <---- when it runs away from it. This is like sand blasting the water pumps impeller.
     
  12. Sharpshooter77

    Sharpshooter77 Senior Member
    Messages: 162

    Mick- I Installed a after market one, Which this gauge is operating good. When I drive around it goes up to about 180 to 195 which normal operating temp. But heres on little problem I took out the old temp sensor in order to install the new after market one. When I was all done with the install the old O.E.M on the dash still works. When I unpluged the sensor the check engine light came on, once I pluged it back in the light went. So I just have it sitting there between the upper radiator hose and the engine block, but it is not screwed into the block. Is there another temp sensor that I am missing some were.
     
  13. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    You need that temp sensor for the computer, it's multifunction. That may be the problem. The computer may be going into open loop and closed loop on the pollution control system. The computer senses that the engine is colder then it is. It then controls like it's still cold.Running rich or changing the pulse width on the fuel injectors. Not opening the EGR valve causes combustion temps to be higher then the design for the engine / cooling system.
    There should be a way to run both sensors in the same hole or there may be another close to it for that purpose. A good part's store like NAPA may have the Y pipe / part that you need to correct the problem needing 2 sensors.
    If it has the vacuum canister on the RT fender, make sure it's not rusted out. That's your vacuum source for switch's / relays etc.This can play havoc too.
     
  14. Sharpshooter77

    Sharpshooter77 Senior Member
    Messages: 162

    Mick is there another sensor. Because the gauge on the dash still works. there must be another sensor for it some where, Right???
     
  15. Sharpshooter77

    Sharpshooter77 Senior Member
    Messages: 162

    Hey Mick- I found the sending unit it was covered up by the distributer and the plug wires but now I am up and running good and the truck is staying cool THANKS for all the help guys. :drinkup: :waving: :drinkup: :waving:

    Shane