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Heater makes plow act funny

Discussion in 'Boss Plows Discussion' started by MahonLawnCare, Jan 14, 2012.

  1. MahonLawnCare

    MahonLawnCare Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 851

    So the past few days a problem we had crept back up with an older 7.6 boss rt3. Whenever the driver has the heat on the floor or on defrost/floor and cranked up, the plow acts up. He will have to jiggle the joystick a few times to get it to move where he wants it. If the heat is on the defrost or vent the plow is fine. Anyone ever heard of this? Thinking bad connection in controller to harness and heat is making it act up? Any help, would be greatly appreciated. :confused:
     
  2. bossman34

    bossman34 Member
    Messages: 67

    check your controller power supply, or change your feed source. also check your chassis grounds and controller ground. thats were I would start.
     
  3. MahonLawnCare

    MahonLawnCare Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 851

    now it's progressed to just acting up in general. switched controllers, still did it. it's intermittant. took it to dealer it wouldn't act up and he didnt know either. ahhhh IDEAS????
     
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Likely a power (junction box feed/fuses etc) or ground connection (body ground) on the truck. Doubt it's the plow unless it wasn't wired correctly.
     
  5. MahonLawnCare

    MahonLawnCare Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 851

    Where do you recommend I start kind sir? And thank you.
     
  6. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    I say ground issues also. Just look at all your wires and find the ones that are grounded to the body of the truck, or frame.

    ...
     
  7. MahonLawnCare

    MahonLawnCare Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 851

    Ok I'll try that and let you know if I find anything. I was thinking it could be the solenoid on the fender wall and or the power cable as I've had problems with that before. Thanks for the tips!
     
  8. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    Bad grounds will make other electrical systems in your truck act funny. If the solenoid doesn't have a ground wire coming off of it, the the solenoid body will be grounded to where ever it's mounted to, so check where the two meet.

    Otherwise, where ever the system has a ground connection, I would clean it up and re-try.

    ..
     
  9. MahonLawnCare

    MahonLawnCare Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 851

    Well I cleaned the power wires solenoid etc. and put it back worked about half the night started acting up. Had my driver take it in the dealer completely tore it down and scrubbed every connection on plow , solenoid and di electric greased it all. It worked flawlessly for another 5 hours and then started acting up again. Doesn't want to raise will just make a berrr noise and do nothing then act jiggling stuff it'll work again for another few hours. I am thinking of replacing plow side harness?
     
  10. MahonLawnCare

    MahonLawnCare Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 851

    any ideas?
     
  11. Woodenshoe

    Woodenshoe Member
    Messages: 84

    Check the voltage (with a volt meter) in the +12v supply to the controller with the fan off and on high while the plow is in use. You may notice a difference, could be just enough to not be able to trigger the solenoid or the valves...
     
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    I don't see anywhere you mentioned going over the trucks input power connections nor body or plow harness grounds. Those are usually where the culprit lies when the plow is affected by the truck functions.
     
  13. MahonLawnCare

    MahonLawnCare Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 851

    The dealer went over the plow harness grounds, grounds for the Plow harness. I cleaned up checked my battery terminals, ground on the fender wall for the battery/solenoid. The only ground I haven't been able to locate is one on the actual frame. Everything else is spotless.

    the plow will work fine for a few hours so I am thinking that it's not acting up until the plow gets hot. I am also thinking it could possibly be a wiring harness truckside or plow side, or ground somewhere I'm and the dealer is missing or the lift valve is going bad. I don't really know what else it could be.:cry:

    The truck is a 1996 f250 hd so if I'm missing a ground somewhere and someone is familar with that style truck please tell me I'll check it out. Thanks again for all your help everyone.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012
  14. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Unless your controller power connection still isn't good I still don't feel the issue is even with the plow, but the truck.

    You're original post speaks of the heater motor affecting the plow, the heater motor is grounded to the body and so are many other things pulling current through any possible weak or missing OEM ground connections, so body grounds are important and must be checked. If you can't find or salvage the originals simply add a new one. A fresh braided ground strap or 8G wire from the engine to the cab is a wise move for starters. Most of the Fords used nothing more than a crappy clipped on braided ground strap under the cab that was the first thing to rot off so a fresh one better protected under the hood from the elements should be done regardless.
     
  15. MahonLawnCare

    MahonLawnCare Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 851

    Alright bare with me, so I add another ground from where to where? From the motor , where on the motor to where?
     
  16. JRS Landscaping

    JRS Landscaping Senior Member
    Messages: 103

    Trace your wires something may be rubbing and chafing making it short.....
     
  17. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    An easy convenient location on the engine. For example, a bolt in the end of the cylinder head, an unused threaded boss on the intake, an existing bolt that's easily removed to place the ground cable under etc. Just about anywhere that is clean and physically attached to the engine.

    Then attach the other end to a good location on the firewall. An existing threaded ground stud for example or run a new self tapping screw into the sheet metal somewhere convenient and safe nearby, usually right above the engine is a handy location. Use a screw only as long as necessary so you don't punch into anything important on the backside and be sure to clean the location to bare metal for the best conductivity. Adding a star washer to bite into the metal for extra assurance is a good idea too.
     
  18. MahonLawnCare

    MahonLawnCare Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 851

    Well B&B your onto something I think. I looked at it today in between fixing my dump truck and traced all grounds. I found a ground that runs off the battery and to the engine. It is grounded to a bolt on the engine. There is also another ground washer( don't know if that's the right term) that looks like it was grounded on the frame too. It looks like it is supposed to run from the battery to the frame and from the frame to the engine block all in one cable. The part that is supposed to be ground to the frame is just floating loose. It looks like a bolt may broke off and that is why it is just kind of hanging out. I am going to reground it the frame with a self tapper and see if that helps? I've never seen a ground wire like that in my llife but I have a 94 ford dump and it's set up the same way. Thanks for your insight, fingers crossed this works.
     
  19. MahonLawnCare

    MahonLawnCare Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 851

    I added a new one today, the old one was rotted off the clips were toast. Hopefully this will work. Guess we'll see.