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head torque specs

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Garet, Jun 26, 2001.

  1. Garet

    Garet Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    What are the heads on a 73 Chevy 350 supposed to be torqued to? It says 65 ft/pounds in a book that I have but that sounds a little too weak.

    garet
     
  2. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    That sounds right - a reference book I have states the torque on the cylinder head bolts should be 60 - 70 ft lbs. Don't forget there 17 of 'em per cylinder head!
     
  3. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    Also, don't forget to torque them in sequence, to 35 ft lbs. Then in sequence to 75 ft lbs. Then wait 10 minutes, and go over all of them, in sequence, with the wrench still set at 75.

    ~Chuck
     
  4. Garet

    Garet Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    Thread compound

    I forgot to put thread sealer on the head bolts. Is it ok to just remove the bolts and put the compound on them or will it mess the gasket up?
     
  5. raceman6135

    raceman6135 Member
    Messages: 61

    Hey Garet:

    I've run into this type of situation before myself. What I did was remove one bolt at a time (starting with the #1 in the shop manual's sequence), put sealer on it, and then reinstall and torque to specifications.

    Then, I went around the sequence again (once each and every bolt was removed, sealed, and reinstalled) to double check the torque on the bolts. I haven't run into any problems with this, but I've also only tried it on one engine.

    My logic tells me this: you minimize the amount the head will move if you only remove one bolt at a time. With the small block Chevrolet, because there are SO many bolts for each head, there is a minimal chance that the head will warp (or have any other damage occur to it) if you remove only one bolt, goop it up, and return it to torque within about 10 minutes. I would make sure that you do this on a stone cold engine, however, just to be sure.

    Just a reminder: the bottom row of bolts (the ones hidden under the exhaust manifold) are going to spew water/coolant something fierce when you remove them! A good idea (especially if you want your sealant to hold) would be to drain the coolant and wait for a while for the coolant to drain from the threads in the block. Even then, there may be some antifreeze residue left that will prevent your threadsealer from working properly.

    When I did my "fix" years ago (it was on one of my very first engine rebuilds), I used Teflon tape on the threads, which is more impervious to the presence of coolant than a liquid sealer might be.

    Hope this helps!