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Having problems mounting Snoway subframe

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by oldmankent, Dec 28, 2001.

  1. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    Ok, I know I've asked alot of questions about this plow, but I have to ask again. I'm trying to mount the subframe on my truck, and I can't get the left hand or right hand rear mounting brackets to sit tight on the frame, and line up with the holes on the rear crossmember. If everythingwas even close to lining up, the nose piece would be way out ot level with the ground. I'm pretty frusturated with this. I don't see how this is supposed to go together properly. I'm thinking one other option is to lift the subframe even higher off the ground into the higher mounting holes on the front crossmember, but this would put the lower plow mounting holes on the nose piece about 12.5- 14 inches above the ground, and the recommended height is 9-11 inches. Can anyone who knows these things give me any recommendations before I call it quits and have the dealer do it? Many thanks for any replies, Nick:confused:
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2001
  2. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    anyone?????
     
  3. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    I haven't followed the threads closely, so this question may be beside the point but: this is definitely the proper subframe for your year/make/model truck?

    Do you have the installation instructions handy, and is there any mention of additional holes having to be drilled? (I wouldn't think there should be, just asking)

    I believe that the Fords tend to be "taller" trucks anyway - perhaps that 12.5" height is where the mount is supposed to end up?

    That's about all I can suggest without being able to see things "in-person". :(
     
  4. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Ok I do not know sno way plows that well. I do know that all plows that I have mounted on Ford F series (Fisher, Diamond, Meyer) have all needed to have holes drilled. Most other vehicles I have put plows on have needed some drilling to. Usually some holes line up as reference and then others have to be drilled. Without mounting instructions it may be difficult. I would suggest you call or e-mail sno-way and see if you can get a diagram or instructions.
     
  5. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    I think we were able to mount ours on two different fullsized GM truck with no need to drill holes. The S trucks got homemade mounting hardware so I have no idea if the factory kits work on those. I do know that I've seen the dealer here drilling or reaming or something under Dodges to get the kit installed.
     
  6. Mike Nelson

    Mike Nelson Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    Doesn't Slimjim have a Snoway? Maybe he would have some advice!
    Good Luck
     
  7. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    I do have the correct subframe for the truck. I screwed around with it more, and it really isn't a height problem, but more of a front to back problem. Holes are not lining up by about 1/2" between the rear mounting bracket and the rear crossmember. And I can't move the rear mounting brackets towards the rear of the vehicle bescause they hit a bolt sticking out of the frame. I might get some steel welded on to the crossmember and brackets so I can drill new holes where things line up, but that will set me back another week, and be a major pain in the ass. I ran out of light, so I'm gonna tackle it again tomorrow. I think I have to force the subframe around with a jack and a prybar with all the bolts semi tightened to get the bracket to sit nice and flush on the frame. Then, I'll drill the holes in the frame and tighten those bolts down. I think I just may be expecting too good of a fit from the pieces. Wish I had the newer(less parts) subframe they are making now. In any case, I'm gonna make it work, and try not to butcher it at the same time. I'm still open to suggestions folks. If you read this, thanks for listening to me think out loud, Nick
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2001
  8. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    Yeah, I do have to drill holes in the frame where these rear mounting brackets sit along the side of the frame. that isn't the problem though, the problem is where the snoway holes for bolting the rear crossmember to the rear mounting brackets line up is off. I'm gonna use some brute force tomorrow to get this stuff together. I'll try attaching a file so you guys can see what I'm talking about.
    Look at part number 3,4,5 where bolt 11 connects them
    also step 8,9,10- on mine, the holes on the bracket are ahead of the holes on the crossmemebr.
     
  9. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    I'm just about 100% certain that when you typed in "Holes are not lining up by about 1/2' " in your previous post you meant to put down 1/2", how many holes are there in the connection?

    If you can get one bolt in to start, something you could try if you have a suitable tapered pin is to bolt that hole up, tighten it, and use the tapered pin to work the other holes into place one at a time. Having the bolt tight will hold whatever you gain with the pin.

    This is a holdover from earlier "ironworker" days. I worked for a company that did structural steel, mostly red iron 1 and 2 storey buildings, for about 5 years and the tapered pin was an essential tool for bolting up. When first hanging the steel, one or two bolts in a connection was all we put in to get the stuff up and the crane out of there. Getting the rest of the bolts in was where the pin came into use.

    A "brute force" approach, true, but it works - and no need to drag 100+ feet of torch hose up to the 2'nd floor unless the holes were w-a-y out.
     
  10. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Sometimes the frames just don't "sit" as well as you would think or like them to. Some have "pads" or contact points that are important to mate with points on the truck. Others I have seen mainly rely on the mounting bolts. Sometimes you have to remove factory bolts to get things to fit right.

    Not trying to make you feel stupid. Important thing is to have all the bolts in and tight and the frame mounted solidly. Don't forget truck frames are not always perfect. I have seen holes off by as much as a 1/2". If you think how you have it is right then you may need to try a little force to line it all up.
     
  11. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    Yeah, I know I have it right. It just doesn't fit together very well. Using brute force to get it all to fit is what I'm going to have to do. There seem to be a lot of pieces with this sibframe. Talked to a technical rep at snoway(Kevin?), and he said the new one has less parts, and he's never heard of a problem such as mine in his 10 years. I think with a few clamps and a bottle jack I can get the thing to work. One more question though, how crucial is having the lower mounting holes in the nosepiece between 9"-11"?
     
  12. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    here is one of the pics I tried to put up before. Look at parts 3,4,5 and where bolt 11 connects the two. The bracket is ahead of the crossmember by .5"-1"

    sscn0051.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2001
  13. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    Here is the other I tried to post earlier. Mainly the picture, but steps 8,9,10. Same, the bracket holes are ahead of the crossmember holes. Pain in the ass.

    sscn0056.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2001
  14. Bryan

    Bryan Senior Member
    Messages: 108

    oldmankent, CT is right, truck frames very and yes the older style mounts are harder to put on. As for the mounting height, you should be okay at 12" any higher than that I would guess your front springs or tires need to be checked for height. A lot of people overlook the tires, these can change height considerably. All those parts you are struggling with is why we have tried to reduce it on the new style mounts. There is a new style for that truck but I am guessing you don't want to spend that kind of money. If you get into fabricating something for it, I would ask Alan here on the board, he is very good and has modified a few things in the past for himself, especially what materials to use and such. Remember to keep the subframe loose until you have the nose piece on in position then tighten everything up, if you don't it won't go on.
     
  15. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    Bryan, you're right. I don't want to nor do I have $500 for a new subframe. I'm gonna go at this again today, and thank god for clamps. Everything is in place loose or snug, I'm just having trouble getting the rear mounting brackets to sit snug on the frame. Thanks for the pdfs by the way. Great info. Nick
     
  16. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Another thought. If the plow frame you are using is used it may have been bent or tweaked in use or in handling (getting tossed into the back of a truck). I have seen new plow frames that appeared straight ot correct but when compared to another they were off a little. Without seeing I can't tell exactly what you mean by it not sitting right. This could be something to consider. If you can get all the bolts in I would use the clamps and slowly and evenly tighten the bolts and the clamps to see if you can snug it up close to how it should be.
     
  17. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    Well, I got it in. I'm not psyched about the install, but I'm satisfied that it is as good as it can get. I loosened stuff up pretty good concerning the bolts, and drove a wedge between the bottom of the bracket and the leaf spring and used a c-clamp to snug it up to the side of the frame. Pushed it backward as much as I could, cause that is where it wanted to go. Thank god I can start tightening things tomorrow. some of these bolts are going to be hard to reach. Only thing that I think is weird is that the front crossmember doesn't sit very well up against the bumper brakcets. the top is touching and the bottom is pulled back almost a 1/4". guess I'll just have to shim it. The front still sits higher than the rear when looking from the side, but it is as close to parallel with the ground as it can get. Dealer told me I should forget about the shims and just tighten down the bolts, that it would suck in. don't know how excited I am about that approach though. anyway, can't wait to get the thing actually hooked up. Only problem is Gloucester hasn't had any snow yet. I guess Maine is doing a little better. Glad I'm not in Buffalo, I'd have lost all my nuts and bolts in the snow. Thanks for all the replies, it is good to hear input when one is not sure about things, and needs a little reassuring, and ideas.
     
  18. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    pretty much all done

    sscn0058.jpg
     
  19. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    It looks good to me. I have only seen a few sno-way mounts so can not really judge the frame. It looks like it is secure though. If all teh bolts are in and tight I don't see any problem with it. Be sure to check those bolts after you plow once, if you ever do, they may tend to loosen a bit. Holds true for all plows.