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Has anyone tried these mods to their blade?

Discussion in 'Sno-Way Discussion' started by g.moore, Dec 29, 2006.

  1. g.moore

    g.moore Senior Member
    Messages: 164

    After making 18 passes to plow a 25x100' driveway I decided its time to get out the welder. The ST on my Ram is way to short for our 2'+ snows and the mold board looks like someone took a ball peen to it from the rocks (I am picking up 8"-12" rocks constantly). Has anyone replaced the mold board with 14ga or heavier steel? Also has anyone tried adding about 12"-18" of additional height to their blade? My 42 year old Meyers has a 12" addition to the top so its 36" tall overall and I am thinking of trying this with my ST. A new blade is out of the question since I rely about 80% on the old IH I can't justify the price. Just want some opinions here otherwise I am selling it come spring and putting the $$ into the old IH. It would just be nice to have a backup if the IH decides it doesn't want to work that day. Also overheating is not a concern, even at 70MPH with the blade up all the way and straight the truck runs about 160 on a 60 degree day.
     
  2. g.moore

    g.moore Senior Member
    Messages: 164

    Sorry, jumped the gun a bit there. Took a piece of steel out there and with the curl of the blade there is no way I can make it taller. Anyone know how much a 6 year old 25 series w/ downforce and a Dodge Ram bracket sells for?
     
  3. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    I was gonna say that with the curl of the blade you wouldn't be able to get a whole lot of additional height. you can do what I did, but it only gains you a little, and I did it to fix an aframe height problem. There are a few snoways on ebay right now. Look to be higher than your St. The other thing you can do is install wings on your plow. You'll be able to carry more snow, but you may still have the same issue with height.
    http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=40683
     
  4. dmontgomery

    dmontgomery PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,238

    I think that is just the wrong plow for your area. I use to have an ST that was fine for around here..... I now have a 29 ........ Great plow but I doubt it will ever see 2' of snow.....

    Good Luck....

    D
     
  5. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    In previous posts, and if I'm reading them right, in this one as well you state that you have a 8 foot, 25 series, ST? There has never been a 8' ST, and a 25/HT series 8 foot blade is 25 inches tall. if you have a ST it no wonder the old IH is a better snow mover.If you considering moving up to a 25 or HT unit for the dodge you can use the same mount as you used for the ST.

    If you had a 8' 25 series it would be a different story. With the proper unit for the truck, the Snoway with it's superior attack angle and snow rolling action would be faster and cleaner than the Meyer with it's bulldozer, just push it aside approach.

    Matching the proper blade to the vehicle makes all the difference in the world. to much or to little blade either one is a road leading to problems. Snoway has designed their new mounts to alleviate this problem by using different designs for the different class blades. This stops people from doing a "Big Nate" and hanging to much blade on to small a truck, or overpowering the blade with to much truck as you are.
     
  6. toby4492

    toby4492 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,513

    Let's try and determine exactly what model plow that you own here. What is the serial # on the a-frame of the plow? What is the serial # on the plow blade itself. I would agree that if you are truly running an ST model on the Ram that you do not have a good match for the truck. Let us know the serial # info or if you prefer send me a PM with the information and I will identify what model you currently have. If your Dodge is a 2500 or better I feel that our 32 series plow would make the best application for you with the amount of snow that you are getting.
     
  7. g.moore

    g.moore Senior Member
    Messages: 164

    It is a 25 series. Putting a different blade on my Ram is not an option. I am actually going to take some measurements and see if I can modify the mount on my Ram to fit my 64 IH then adapt my big blade to fit onto the Sno Way A frame. I like the down force and the full hydraulics (no chains) but the big Meyers blade will rip 4" of ice to the bare dirt w/o downforce because just the blade weighs about 300#+. It also has a 12 ga mold board so it can handle anything that hits it. The only remaining question before I start designing the adapter is can the "break away" feature of the power angle be defeated? I can trip the blade fairly easily on the Sno Way whereas on the old plow truck it would tear the mount off of the frame first and I am worried that with that large of a blade (7' 6"x36") I will constantly trip the power angle.
    Note to those looking at buying a Sno Way:
    My conditions are very extreme. I live at 9000' w/ no county maintence so when I plow I also grade the road. The controls are great, the hydraulics are great and there is probably no blade being manufactured that could withstand the abuse this thing sees every storm. My questions are not meant to "slam" a Sno Way, regardless of the brand I got I would probably end up heavily modifying it to perform in my conditions. 99.999% of the people who buy any plow will never submit it to what I do. I just tore the wear bar off of it piling snow so we would have more room for the next storm this consisted of blade 1/2 way up and a 20MPH running start to bash the frozen snow, something probably no one else would have do on a regular basis.
     
  8. Grn Mtn

    Grn Mtn PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,644

    have you tried bolting some rubber deflectors on?
     
  9. g.moore

    g.moore Senior Member
    Messages: 164

    I have about an 8" deflector on top but it about 12" shy of the height I need. I think with a little bit of creativity I could get the Meyers blade on but I did notice something that may work, if I could get the blade to sit a bit more upright a height addition would work. If I cut the blade mount and added another triangular shape plate to limit the rearward travel of the blade I think it would be possible to increase the height. Another wrinkle in the works, I sheared both pins holding the blade to the A Frame this morning and in turn snapped both eyes holding the springs in place on one of my high speed pile bashing runs. I think my roads would be a nice proving ground, Sno Way should ship me the new model and I will ship it back in a shoe box:D If it can withstand 1 winter of my rock filled, pot holed, rutted, washed out roads it should last 75+ years for everyone else. And just a side note, I just noticed I have managed to bend the 1/2" thick A Frame of the IH so it looks like I will have to rebuild it with 3/4" if I keep that setup.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2008
  10. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Have you considered a skid steer?
     
  11. g.moore

    g.moore Senior Member
    Messages: 164

    Bashe, I saw a Bobcat run our hill and he almost went end over end both going up and down. A neighbor has a 4WD Ford tractor w/ hydrostatic drive and he cannot pull the hill it stalls out about 10' from the top unloaded.
    I now have about 5 pages of drawings for both the Sno Way A Frame to Meyers blade and also adding 6" to the bottom of the blade and 8" to the top (which involves modifying both the truck mount and the blade)not sure which way I will go but I would really like to keep the A frame and hydraulics from the Sno Way, they are quicker and more reliable than the Meyers stuff. The issues I have had with the SW blade are trivial and have been easily fixed with heavier parts (typically $10 at the hardware store) whereas the issues with the hydraulics on the Meyers were big costly and time consuming (last one took 4 weeks and $495). Right now I am leaning towards trying to do a variation of another post that shows the height addition but a bit more extreme.
     
  12. DAFFMOBILEWASH

    DAFFMOBILEWASH PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,598

    modifications

    Have you thought about cutting the blade in half horisontally above the pivit point. Add 4"-6" of flat stock on each rib and re weld the top portion of the blade. This will keep the factory geometry almost the same. Just make a new mullboad to size of the blade. While you are at it you can add some extra ones(ribs) for added strength.

    Fabricating is the best, fallure will follow but with practice anything can be revampted and improved upon. I liked the idea of the notch out but I think it won't give you the results you are looking for.

    Good luck,
    DAFF
     
  13. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    that is a pretty good suggestion for increased height without f'ing up too much.
     
  14. g.moore

    g.moore Senior Member
    Messages: 164

    Blade is in the basement, since I don't have a garage yet that's where I gotta work. I have been comparing the Sno Way blade to the Meyers and the wear bar on the SW is completely vertical whereas the wear bar on the Meyers is angled about 15 degrees foreward. I am planning on adding an 8" plate in place of the present wear bar and ribbing the back then putting a new wear bar on it that would give me 28" and the "attack angle" I want. Now for the added height at the top I am going to drill and sleeve 6 holes in the top of the blade frame and make a removable "bad storm flap" 12" high, ribbed, 5/8" plexiglass covered. This will take me a while but since I have the old IH I would rather take my time and do it right and strong, I will post pics of the final product. And yes I know it's gonna be alot of work but I really love the SW hydraulics.
     
  15. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Why change the attack angle? I prefer the curl effect of the snoway "AA" to the meyer "brute force" approach.
     
  16. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    If you are just going to tap threads into the top of the frame where say a regular poly deflector would bolt in, you'll have to beef up the steel. It is very thin there, and not much for threads to grab. I've got a striped one just on my poly edge. you'll be applying alot more force with the higher deflector. I'd set it up so it is a permanent attachment with proper bracing. Good luck. One thing, you won't like the hydraulics as much as you did. Extra weight will slow it down a little bit.
     
  17. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

     
  18. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    Still think the thin wall on the top there won't hold all the extra force of the snow. Think it is only 1/8"- 3/16" thick. If you weld bracing down to the top you should be ok.
     
  19. tjthorson

    tjthorson Senior Member
    from IL
    Messages: 126

    You know, instead of welding, buying stuff, and ramming into snow drifts at 20mph - maybe you need a little different method of MOVING the snow then the rest of us use.

    http://www.allwebdiscounts.com/snowblower_01.php

    Just a thought. Maybe it isnt the strength or construction of the equipment you are using for the job - maybe its the wrong job for the equipment. After all, you aren't out there with a handheld snowblower trying to do this either, right? Its obviously not the right equipment for the job. I think the very nature of plowing snow is not going to work properly for your job. You need to get the snow up and out.....
     
  20. g.moore

    g.moore Senior Member
    Messages: 164

    A snowblower was a thought but considering I plow up 6"-8" dia rocks and 12" long + branches that have fallen into the road I am kinda shying away from it. $8000 is alot to spend and be putting the unit at risk by picking up stuff like that, whereas I paid $1100 for the SW.. I used the SW only the last storm and found that plowing at 5MPH like I do in my dedicated plow truck doesn't work very well with the SW, When I kicked it up to about 15MPH it moved the snow alot better, actually rolling to up and to the side rather than the bulldozer effect. The piling is still an issue, the piles are high enough now when I pile the blade actually lifts high enough to contact the light pillars. My wife had the camera with her in FL this last storm but they are saying more snow this weekend so I will try and get pics of Sno Way Extreme and post them.

    Basher, I am slowly building a pretty good list of parts. I haven't forgotten about you.