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GM Passlock. Help B & B!

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by BlizzardBeater, Oct 20, 2010.

  1. BlizzardBeater

    BlizzardBeater Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 420

    This is tough to do lol. Usually i'm the one with the knowledge to help others along but I am at my wits end. The ole lady's truck, a 2001 Chevrolet half ton with the 5.3L, is having trouble with the passlock system. Occassionaly she'll try to start it and the truck will crank, stumble, and immediately stall out and the security light starts flashing in the message center. I know that replacing the passlock module, or sometimes just cleaning the connections to it, will more than likely resolve this issue. However, the last time I put one in one of the trucks I remember it being quite pricey, a PITA, and then having to run through a "relearn procedure". This couldnt of come at a worse time. I'm gearing up for winter, trying to finish the building of my new shop, and she doesnt want to spend any money on fixing her truck. What is the most effective way of disabling the GM Passlock system without tearing everything apart? Thanks in advance guys.
     
  2. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    9 out of 10 times it is the passlock sensor It is soooooo hard to duplicate sometimes to actually be 100% sure. Changing the passlock sensor/ lock cyclnder is easy Just need to re code the cyclnder. If this is not ur problem then it gets very tricky.Relearn is very easy generally just a matter of leaving the key after ur first attempt to start the vehicle But it can take several attempts at 10 min a time Usually done the first time though. Or a tech 2 can make it real quick.I would not disable it without trying to fix it correctly first .
     
  3. BlizzardBeater

    BlizzardBeater Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 420

    Thanks for the help brad, but this problem goes much deeper than that. I was a mechanic by occupation for quite some time and quite a competent one at that. Many of the cheap and easy "tricks" have already been done and its starting to happen more and more often. I need to bypass the entire system. I know several ways to do this, i'd just like to know the cheapest most effective way to go about it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2010
  4. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    The sensor has been changed? I belive u can rig a bypass moudle but on most it would need to see the correct code 1 time. U would just need to wire it so it activates with the key signal an not a remote start signal.
     
  5. BlizzardBeater

    BlizzardBeater Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 420

    The contacts were cleaned, and that did help for awhile. That was a year or two ago but its happening quite frequently now. She just doesnt want to put any money in the truck and I dont blame her. She would like to sell it and she already needs tires, a few front end parts, alignment, and exhaust work. I just got done doing a blower motor, resistor, and two window motors. She never tells me when theres a problem, I have to find out when I get in the truck for some reason. Women lol. She lives with a mechanic, or I was until better opportunities came along, you think she'd tell me everytime she has a truck issue, she gets all her work done for free lol.
     
  6. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    Its up to u but changing the sensor is not a big deal I dont think its a ton of money either. But If u can get it to start normall just one time U could wire in a bypass module. U would just have to wire it differently then if u where using a remote starter.
     
  7. BlizzardBeater

    BlizzardBeater Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 420

    Its not the work. In fact in a couple weeks i'll have the new shop all built and can work on it all night if i want. Its not always garunteed a sensor will always fix it. Sometimes the case is needed as well. In fact, more often then not a try and see replace method is whats used locally, even at the dealer. Not to mention that even with new parts, no telling how long they last. The design is terrible and flawed. The connections are blind and oxidize very quickly. Not to mention it takes barely any swing in the voltage to enable the passlock. Disabling it just solves so many issues. I've been through all the preliminaries, this has been a three year issue i guess. It's time to disable it. So if anybody has got any opinions or facts about DISABLING the GM Passlock II, chime in. Thank you.
     
  8. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    I take it u dont like the idea about using a $20 bypass module either. 20 bucks and 20 min to do. I like to also hear a better solution.
     
  9. red2500

    red2500 Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    You can use a competent "tuner" with the right software. I use EFI Live and can completely disable the security right in the PCM. Unfortunately I am in mass and there must be someone closer to you. Look around for dyno type shops in your area that specialize in GM. If I did this mod for somebody I would have to charge at least 150.
    I found these guys on the net for you. http://www.dieselfuelsystems.com/default.asp
     
  10. BlizzardBeater

    BlizzardBeater Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 420

    I've actually used the remote starter bypass modules before with good luck. I was just wondering if anyone had used any other methods with success.
     
  11. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Replacing the ignition switch and re-linking it or using a $20 bypass module would be the best ways since cost is an issue. Otherwise I'd recommend a tune to not only disable the VATS but add a little power too. :D