1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

General Instalaltion Problem

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by mayhem, Oct 27, 2006.

  1. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    This fall I purchased a 2000 Silverado 2500 ecsb in the new body style and a used 8' MMI plow with fishstick, full wiring kit and push plates. Went through the instalaltion instructions and it seemed pretty straightforward, though complex. I knew full well that its a big job my first time out, but only a few minutes in I've already run into issues.

    - Tow hooks came off and push plates went in very easily. No problems there and the separation distance is within Fisher spec.
    - Went to hook up the battery wires to the coil and found I was utterly unable to get the connectors to fit the battery posts. Its a side pole battery and the existing connectors do not have separate external connectors for accessory wires. I relocated the hot to the alternator block which is a direct tie in to the far end of the hot battery wire and seems to be the factory recommended jumper cable location. I hooked up the ground wire to the chassis ground that comes up from the engine block to the firewall at the rear of the engine compartment. Based on the relatively short lengths of wire on the coil I mounted the coil to the plastic fenderwell cover just behind the master fusebox, which is behind the battery. Electrically I'm pretty confident that this is fine, anyone see any functionality issues?
    - I ran the covered power brick to the front of the truck, but for the life of me I can't find a way through to get the brick in front of the radiator so it can come out the grill, I was able to get it down underneath and it can come out on top of the driver's side push plate with about 4-6" of slack in the line. Will this location work ok for me when I hookup the plow or is this going to be a major pita all winter long?
    - Ditto the other two bricks that need to go to the plow. How do you guys route them?
    - When I run the control wire and power wire into the cab I was thinking of snipping the wire to one of the three cigarette lighter power sockets in the center of the dash and using that for the controller power line and mounting the female control socket inside the actual power outlet bezel so its a nice clean install...but how in the hell do I get that relatively large connector into the cab through the firewall? Where is the grommet that I need to go through?

    I know this is at worst a moderately difficult procedure, but being my first time out its a pretty significant challenge. I've seen people refer to removing their bumpers, but the Fisher instructions are excessively incomplete in regards to what to do with the vehicle...they focus strictly on the Fisher-specific plugs and assume the installer already knows what to disassemble and when...what do I really need to remove in order to get this prject wrapped up? My wife's uncle knows a guy that installs plows for a local GMC dealership and he's going to see if he'll help me out with the install, but I generally prefer to do as much of this work as possible myself, makes troubleshooting significantly easier when stuff breaks if I know where everything is and how it all works together. Taking it to a Fisher dealer is off the table as an option...they're too expensive.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    25 views and not one comment? I think I'm in trouble.
     
  3. Northland

    Northland Senior Member
    Messages: 169

    Hmmm.. I only have a Uni-MOunt Western. As far as getting the wiring through the radiator support, I took the headlights and marker lights out to gain access to run the wires through then reinstalled the lights. I had alot of room there... As far as running you wiring through the firewall...my biggest plug was about a 1/2 to 3/4" square so I was able to get it through the factory rubber grommet...If your is bigger I would look at calling a Fisher dealer and aske them how they install them.

    Hope this helps a bit.
     
  4. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    After checking the truck owner's manual to get the headlights out it was pretty easy to get the remainder of the underhood wiring taken care of, thanks for the tip. Only step remaining is to get the plug for the handheld controller into the cab. I located the main wiring grommet in the upper driver's side corner of the firewall, but I'll be darned if I can figure out how to get that plug (or even a screwdriver) through there. Any tips?
     
  5. Northland

    Northland Senior Member
    Messages: 169

    Here is a pic of what I have... Hopefully this helps. Not the prettiest but it works. I would recommend sealing up with silicone which I see I forgot to do when I did the install a few years back.... The red wire is for an amp.

    DSCF0052.JPG
     
  6. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Thats pretty useful, thank you.

    Thats the main power conduit that runs into the cab over the parking prake pedal, right? How did you actually get it through there? Just use a drill or razor knife to cut through the multiple layers till you got it through?

    A local guy that installs plows at a GMC dealer told me he runs them all through the grommet on the steering linkage...anyone else do that?
     
  7. DeAdZoNe

    DeAdZoNe Member
    Messages: 31

    Sounds like your in a simliar boat as me. I just posted in the general problems section about my install nightmare. About your electrical connections... I would consider changing them. What I did was I bought 2 "top post" battery terminals and used them to bolt the power cables to. Of course that is assuming your batteries have both side and top post terminals. It ended up being a very good solution, instead of cutting into the side terminals and hacking this worked ALOT better. Your connections will work but with this much load you want as direct of an connection as possible. For instance I had a truck once that would not charge. Got a new alternator and it did the same thing. Long story short the engine to chassis ground had broken or become loose and the huge ground wire going to the engine was doing nothing. I had to run a seperate ground wire from the engine block to the frame in order to get it to work. Its rare but it does happen. Let us know what you do with the red wire...I dont know where to put mine or what kind of power it draws. Good Luck!

    For the joystick I drilled a 1/2 inch hole and then used a triangluar file to make it "square" to slide the connector through. Then I put that plastic wire mold stuff and silicone to finish it off.
     
  8. Rampart Ranger

    Rampart Ranger Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    I am having a hard time understanding your setup. BUT...

    DO NOT RUN MAIN BAT TO HYD MOTOR CABLE ANYWHERE EXCEPT FROM CLOSEST BATTERY DIRECTLY TO MOTOR SOLENOID AND HYD MOTOR!

    There is a very high current (amperage) flow demanded by the hydaulic pump motor. A 5ft 6 gauge cable will likely fry - result will be electrical fire that may burn your truck to the ground!

    If in question, get solid advice from someone knowledgable who can see your rig onsite.
     
  9. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    My battery is side post only, so I guess I should pay a visit to AuoZone and replace the posts with ones that have a power take off on them.

    Thanks guys. I knew electrically the wiring points would probably work, but hadn't considered heat dissipation as part of the equation. I figured there is no way this thing can pull more current than the 140A the alternator puts out.
     
  10. Northland

    Northland Senior Member
    Messages: 169

    If I remember correctly I just poked a hole in the grommet with an awl and shoved some baling wire through from the interior side to the engine side. Then I hooked and taped all my wires to the baling wire and pulled them through. I dont remember it being much of a hassle. Just dont damage your main truck wiring harness.
     
  11. nsmilligan

    nsmilligan PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 704

    There are adapters to fit the main power wires to the side terminal battery, they look like hex nuts with a threaded end, you should be able to get them from your dealer. If the truck has a plow prep pkg, there is a separate rubber plug and grommet just below the brake master cylinder to feed the wires thru, if it doesn't have plow prep there is a dimple in the firewall where the plug is fitted and you will need to use a hole saw to drill a 1" to 1.5" hole in the firewall, the dimple acts like a center punch the start the drill.
    I find removing the grill completly along with headlights makes things quite easy for routing wires. 01 and newer trucks this is really easy, just pop a few plugs and only 1 bolt, and it comes right off.

    Bill
     
  12. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Finally got it all wrapped up. Ran the cab controls through the power steering grommet and up into the center console. I have the full floor console so I just hooked up the hot lead to the protected side of the cruise control fuse and ran the plug to the slot between the floor console and the dash so it tucks away nicely when nt in use. Battery terminals I found out I can just take the bolts out of and replaced them with slightly longer bolts so the main power leads are now connected directly to the battery as they should be.

    I snapped a couple photos with my phone, loust quality but you get the idea. Front end sags a bit, but thats not unexpected si nce I'm hanging nearly a half tone of steel close to 4 feet beyond the front axle. I might inest in some front timbrens at some point, but the sag isn't too much of a bother since I'm only doing my own driveway and will not be driving over the road very much. If I do find myself taking the plow to work with me here and there over the winter for those mid-day storms I might give the T-bars a couple turns and get the front end realigned.

    Thanks very much for everyone's advice. Its truly hardest doing this the first time, I figure it took me about 3-4 man hours start to finish, could probably do it in 2 on the same truck now that I've been through it once.

    Let the winter fun begin!!

    11-05-06_1429.jpg

    11-05-06_1430.jpg
     
  13. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    hope u crank up those torsion bars and add some ballast weight wow is that ft end low.
     
  14. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Thats what I thought too. Not sure if I'm going to bother since this is strictly for my own driveway and the on the road time for the plow will be pretty limited...I might put the plow on and take it to work when I know there's going to be a big storm during the day so I don't have to screw with hooking it up in a foot of snow...other than that it gets hooked up the night before the storm and taken off when I'm done. The truck is an additional vehicle for me so I always have the options of hooking it up and leaving it parked when I go to work too.

    Facilities guy at work said to back my truck up to the loading dock and he'd throw 10 50# bags of ice melt into the bed whenever I'm ready so I've got the ballast covered. Fisher website recommends 500# for my particular setup, though they list two possible front GAWR for my model truck...4100 and 4500, but my door sticker says 4410, so my front end may have slightly lighter duty springs since it didn't have the polow prep, ut has other heavy duty options like tow prep, hd tranny coolr, etc.

    If I touch the t-bars at all I should get it alighned so I don't wreck my tires, right? And all they do is to set the ride height on the front end without screwing up the ride? Maybe a couple cranksa re in order.
     
  15. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    It really doesnt affect allignmet much at all. very little. I cranked mine 6 turns to put on huge tires and it barely changed. just make 2 equal full turns and see where that gets u. After plowing or winter is done crank them back 2 turns. I know guys that crank them 2 or 3 turns rite before the putting plow on. I couldent stand having a truck that looked like the front was 3 inches lower then the rear. I brought mine to the allignment shop and had them even it and then allign it. It took about 6 turns. It does cociderably change the ride quality but i like mine to ride like a truck and could not stand haveing 3 in of ground clearance between plow frame and the ground. I also had added 285 75 16 tires.
     
  16. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    Forgot to say that the ballast weight will help a ton also and provides great traction as well. Maybe u should just try the ballast weight and see how it works for ya.