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fuel pump replacement 99 silverado

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by blublzr, Feb 19, 2007.

  1. blublzr

    blublzr Member
    Messages: 35

    hey guys , i have found a guy in new jersey that sells custom made fuel pumps . the price of the one for my silverado that is listed sells for around 130.00 . a new gm fuel pump goes for around 495.00 . is there any way this could be a reliable fuel pump ??? reply and i'll send you the ebay auction number. anyone that replies , can also contact me by phone

    wil 215-788-3437 :)
     
  2. ThisIsMe

    ThisIsMe Senior Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 745

    Hint,
    If a regualr pickup. Slide the bed out of the way to get to the pump. Easier and no wasted fuel.

    Sorry I had not comment on the pump.
     
  3. lawnmedic

    lawnmedic Senior Member
    Messages: 703

    Fuel pump runs about 260.00 including sending unit and pickup assembly.
    Make sure he is not selling just the fuel pump. Just the fuel pump runs about 80.00, but most people replace the entire assembly do to problems with the sending unit.
     
  4. THE05HD

    THE05HD Member
    from WI
    Messages: 74


    SOUNDS WAY TO CHEAP !!

    MY LOCAL GM PARTS GUY WILL SELL ME A PUMP FOR AROUND 350.00 COMPLETE READY TO DROP IN.

    AFTERMARKET PUMP IS AROUND 275.00

    GM PUMPS ARE THE WAY TO GO .....

    GM PARTS THROUGH THE RIGHT DEALER COME WITH A 3YEAR/36,000 MILE WARENTEE !!

    JUST MY .02 ON THIS :)
     
  5. Northland

    Northland Senior Member
    Messages: 169

    I have had to change the damn g fuel pump in every late model Chevy I have ever owned, including a few in my old mans pickups. What a pain. I agree the easiest method by far is removing/tilting/sliding the box of the back of the truck to get at the pump.

    What GM should do is something similar to what is done with some of the cars out there. Put an access hole in the bed of the truck that is directly over the fuel pump. Obviously countersink screws and have nice edges not to catch material loaded in the bed but have an access hole there for gods sake since its such a b#&^h to get at the damn thing and they go out so often.

    Sigh

    By the way....sounds too cheap to me. Buy the regular GM part. Their cost is somewhere under $300 cuz every time I go in to the stealer to buy one my parts guys feels bad about it and sells it for right around $300. Also make sure you repalce the fule filter about every 10,000 miles. A bad filter is the #1 cause for taking out a pump.
     
  6. ThisIsMe

    ThisIsMe Senior Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 745

    You are making sense there, which is directly related to why you do not work at GM.
     
  7. lawnmedic

    lawnmedic Senior Member
    Messages: 703

     
  8. dlcs

    dlcs 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,149

     
  9. lawnmedic

    lawnmedic Senior Member
    Messages: 703

    Yes, gauge would all the sudden just go to empty. GM claims ethenol is causing spacer to shrink causing loss of contact. Rebent contacts for more tension, no more problems.
     
  10. dlcs

    dlcs 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,149


    Ok, now where do I find the contacts that I need to bend and how hard of a job is it to do? LOL
     
  11. lawnmedic

    lawnmedic Senior Member
    Messages: 703

    Get a buddy or 2. Disconnect the wiring to the tail lights. Unbolt the bed and side back or remove. Remove sending unit assembly from tank. There is an open reostat on side of unit rebend(gently) tabs so that there is no slop.... Reinstall everything....:)
     
  12. stillen

    stillen Senior Member
    Messages: 247

    Same problem here guys. 2001 Sierra, extended cab, 5.3...... Everyonce in awhile the fuel gauge goes to empty and triggers that "fuel low" indicator on my message center. Only does this for like 2 seconds, and then t just goes back to reading the correct fuel level.

    Can a shade tree mechanic do this method of moving the bed back a few inches? I'm no expert wrencher, but i know my way around a bit.... Can you guys guess the amount of time it will take me to do a FP swap?

    Thanks
     
  13. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Pulling the bed is by far the easiest way to get at the sender assembly. Dropping the tank instead, requires dealing with a considerable amount of gas, breaking of rusty bolts and straps and if you don't have at least 2 floor jacks, dealing with trying to balance a tank, half full of gas on a single jack. If you have a few helpers to move the bed, even a shade tree mechanic can swap a sender or fuel pump assembly in less than 2 hours. I use and overhead engine crane to remove the bed's and I can swap the sender/pump's out in less than an hour alone.
     
  14. joe_padavano

    joe_padavano Member
    Messages: 68

    I'll argue for a NAPA pump instead of GM. My original GM pump failed at about 80,000 mi. I installed a NAPA pump. This one also failed after about 80,000 mi. The difference is that the NAPA pump has a lifetime warranty, so the replacement pump was free this time.
     
  15. Butterman

    Butterman Junior Member
    Messages: 6

    I also have a 99 Chevy with a 454 and it starts hard sometimes. It doesn't matter if it is hot or cold. Sometimes it will fire right up and the next time it will crank and crank and crank before it starts. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? The truck only has 50,000 miles on it. It does sit a lot, sometime weeks at a time, but it will do it if you are using it all day too. It runs fine once it starts. Any one else have this problem? Any help would be great.
     
  16. bike5200

    bike5200 Senior Member
    from Ky
    Messages: 437

    I had a 1997 Chevy that I had to replace the fuel pump on, I was told not to let the gas in the tank get real low because the gas around the fuel pump keeps it cool as it runs. I aways filled up when the tank reached about a 1/4.
     
  17. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Yes, thats a good practice to follow there. Not only is the pump cooled by the fuel, it's also lubricated by the fuel as well.
     
  18. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Butterman:
    You might try turning the key on then off a few times. Your fuel pressure reg may be going bad and it's sticking and bleeding off all the pressure. Then the pump builds up pressure and it starts. A pressure gage will tell the story. You should hear a CLICK, <-relay / REee, <-- pump / then VERT which is the regulator bleeding pressure.
    GM tech's would throw parts at it till it stops. Just like Ford tech's.