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Front Sway Bar Bushings

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by DeereFarmer, Dec 25, 2010.

  1. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    Got a great Christmas present this morning, the front sway bar broke off on my '95 F350. The bushing that attatched the sway bar to the passenger side tire sheared in half, so now my truck is stuck 1/2 a mile out in my field. How do you fix a bushing like that? Is it an easy fix where I can do it out in the field, or is it more involved? I've never done one before.
     
  2. linckeil

    linckeil PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,265

    you sure its the sway bar and not the track bar? i've seen people confuse them before. the sway bar was optional, but the track bar was standard on all F350s.

    if its the sway bar, just remove it entirely. its easy to take off and you won't even notice its gone. new bushings are available, but are installed a heck of a lot easier if the bar is removed. put it back on whenever you get around to it.

    if its the track bar, you need this. without it, or if it has bad bushings, you will likely experience the "death wobble" at certain speeds.

    but i don't know how a broken sway bar or track bar bushing would leave a truck stranded? it can be done in a field, but why? if the truck is mobile, put it on pavement to work on it. either job is no big deal. but finding the part you need on Christmas day might be tough!!:eek:

    check out post #74 in the attached thread. third picture down. the track bar is at the top of the photo to the left of the driveshaft. simple straight bar with a bushing on each end. the sway bar is the curved round bar in the center of the cardboard with the holes on each end,

    http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=91106&page=4

    good luck.
     
  3. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    Its neither of those I don't think. Let me run out to the field and take some pics of the situation before it gets dark and I''ll post them up.
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2010
  4. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    Here are a few pics of the carnage. From the pic in that thread, it looks like the two bottom bars. The truck is standed for sure. There's no way around that. The passenger side tire does whatever it wants to and it not connected to the steering components. Thanks linckeil and Merry Christmas!

    1.jpg

    2.jpg

    3.jpg
     
  5. kashman

    kashman PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,070

    ti rod ez fix 25.00 a the parts store
     
  6. kashman

    kashman PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,070

    looks like a ball joint 2 ez fix also
     
  7. bigbadbrad

    bigbadbrad Senior Member
    Messages: 835

    that would be the tie-rod end that is broken, could be fixed in the field, will need a big hammer, pickle fork, some torches, and some sockets and such but once you get it changed bring it in for an alignment and also check the others to make sure there is no play anywheres else, also make sure you count how many turns it takes to remove the old one and put the new one on the same amount of turns
     
  8. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    If it involves torches, then I probably won't be able to do it hahaha. Might just have to get it towed to my mechanic.
     
  9. linckeil

    linckeil PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,265

    yep, its the tie rod. the 2 bottom bars in my picture. the long one is the tie rod. the short one is the drag link. tie rod runs from wheel to wheel. drag link runs from hole is passenger side of tie rod to steering box.

    seperate the drag link from tie rod carefully, or you'll damage the drag link end. if i were you, i'd be replacing the entire tie rod and drag link with all 4 joints. pickle fork and a hammer should do the job, once you remove the castle nuts and cotter pins. torches will hopefully not be necesary. better hurry up, we got a foot of snow coming in tommorow afternoon!
     
  10. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    I'm aiming to have it done by then tomorrow. I can plow with my tractor as a back up but it takes twice as long.:mad:
     
  11. bigbadbrad

    bigbadbrad Senior Member
    Messages: 835

    yeah sorry to scare you with the torches, they are only needed if it comes apart hard, i thought you were a farmer, most of the farmers i know fix everything on their farm with a set of torches, a stick welder, some bailing twine and a big hammer, haha
     
  12. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    Hahaha no I'm a zip tie and duct tape farmer. We run a small horse farm, so we don't have anything too fun as far as tools go.
     
  13. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    Is that an outer or inner tie rod end by the way?
     
  14. woodchuck2

    woodchuck2 Senior Member
    Messages: 304

    That is the whole drag link actually, personally to get it out of the field i would tie it back up with wire and carefully drive it back to your driveway/garage. If you remove the cotter pin and nut, strike the knuckle with a hammer the ball will fall out. Do the same for the link that goes from the pitman arm to that drag link so they can be seperated. Then pop off the left side in the same manner. Loosen the nuts/bolts on the sleeve on the left side, count the turns and remove the left tie rod end. The re-assemble, and get a wheel alignment.
     
  15. weareweird69

    weareweird69 Senior Member
    Messages: 924

    Its called an "Outer Tie Rod END" However its like 3 feet long, so I dont know why they call it an end. I went thru that fiasco a few months ago on a dana 60 swap. It took three tries to get the right parts from the local store. Its like a 100+ dollar part.

    Get a good one, Moog DS1071, has a lifetime warranty, so if it breaks again, free replacement.
    http://www.amazon.com/Moog-DS1071-Steering-Center-Link/dp/B000C53ZXW

    For Reference:
    http://www.coolparts.com/products/Tie_Rod_End-46247-0.html

    The drag link goes from the steering box, And is also called an "Inner Tie Rod", which is not what he needs.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2010
  16. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    Thanks for all the help everyone. I got it towed out of the field today and back up onto solid land. I've got all the parts on order right now. With about 20" of snow on the way, I had to switch gears and get the tractor ready for the storm. I have a couple guys coming over on Tuesday to help with the repair. Seems simple enough and will be a lot easier in the shop. Well worth the $40 tow truck bill. Thanks again.
     
  17. bigbadbrad

    bigbadbrad Senior Member
    Messages: 835

    glad we could steer you in the right direction, haha
     
  18. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    Hahahaha me too. When it comes to suspension/steering components I'm a noob. I can hook anything to a 12 volt power source and wire it in though.
     
  19. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    Thanks again for all the help guys. Got the parts in on Wednesday and with 40 minutes of work and a second pair of hands had her back up and running like charm. I love this site. Ended up spending $150 for the left and right tie rod ends from Napa. Not a bad deal. So $190 total and its 100% good to go. Now I need to figure out why my plow won't work, but its hard to do when its 55 degrees out. I need it to get colder so I can feel more at home working on this truck. hopw you guys all had a good New Years.