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Front Shocks

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by NCat496, Jan 25, 2010.

  1. NCat496

    NCat496 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    So I went to replace my shocks all the way around and when I went to go do the fronts since the torsion bars are raised all the way I would have had to jack up the whole wheel bearing and control arms just to get the bolt in the bottom of the shock. So I said to myself this doesnt seem right and I ordered front shocks from summit with a 2" lift on them so compensate for the t-bars being raised. Has anyone else ever done this? Any other suggestions?
     
  2. thesnowman269

    thesnowman269 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    No thats right. you made the front sit higher so you extended the shock more then it should be I suppose, The shock was not long enough in other words. I dont know what the shocks are like on your trucks (cause iv never worked on one hmmm) but I know for the shocks on my truck you can buy a stud extender that just extends the bolt on the top of the shock. If you dont have a stud on top of the shock I dont think you have any other options but to buy the hocks that are compatible with the 2in lift. If all that makes sence...
     
  3. NCat496

    NCat496 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    Yeah it makes sence but you are a ford guy what are you always doing over here hijacking my threads? :waving:
     
  4. thesnowman269

    thesnowman269 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    Well Mario had a chevy and I got to work on it a few times. But its mostly the same on every Truck
     
  5. NCat496

    NCat496 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    Im just bustin your balls. :drinkup:
     
  6. thesnowman269

    thesnowman269 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    hah.......
     
  7. Snowzilla

    Snowzilla Senior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 397

    That makes sense. When people crank torsion bars to raise the front end - it raises the front end - but you also loose downward travel. I once did this on a K1500 and kept actually ripping the lower bolt eyelet of the shock out.

    I have seen many "leveling kits" available that accomplish this by replacing the Torsion Keys with altered ones. For the shocks the cheaper kits have shock extension brackets. The more expensive kits offer longer replacement shocks.
     
  8. NCat496

    NCat496 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    Yeah basically when I hit a hole in the rode the shock was extended all the way already so the truck took the hit and not the shock, but for a bump there was obviously enough travel for the shock to absorb it.
     
  9. thesnowman269

    thesnowman269 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    explaining why you thought it was time to replace your shocks :nod:
     
  10. NCat496

    NCat496 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    And the fact I could see oil leaking out of them :eek:
     
  11. thesnowman269

    thesnowman269 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    yes sir you are correct
     
  12. Snowzilla

    Snowzilla Senior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 397

    Yep, sometimes factory design isn't made to be messed with without effecting the Yin-Yang of other things. The Timbren rubber bump stops might be a wiser route for stock trucks. Cranking torsion bars also increase the spring rate and make for stiffer ride.

    Leveling kits and suspension kits work but increasing truck height isn't always good for snow plow mounts without refabrication.
     
  13. NCat496

    NCat496 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    I think its going to be trial and error but i already have timbrens on there with the t-bars all the way up
     
  14. rbi014

    rbi014 Junior Member
    from 44131
    Messages: 19

    Contemplating replacing my front shocks. From my initial research, Bilsteins have different P/Ns depending upon how much lift the truck has, so it appears they have already factored in the guys cranking torsion bars and adding timbrens.
     
  15. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The OEM shocks aren't long enough to use the full suspension travel available whether you touch the T-bars or not. And that is where a difference in ride quality can come from once you make a major adjustment. As you begin to use the upper range of the suspension, it becomes quite clear that the shocks are too short thus necessitating the need for extenders or longer shocks. An easy fix.
     
  16. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Yes Bilstein has a p/n specifically for these trucks as they knew the stockers were too short too. They're a night and day difference in ride quality too. Guys think they ride nice stock...until they add a set of Bilstein's. :nod:
     
  17. NCat496

    NCat496 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    Thanks for the confirmation B&B. They should be here today from Summit.
     
  18. Burkartsplow

    Burkartsplow PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,245

    I just ordered a set of Bilstein 5100 series for the front and back of the chevy 2500 today from shockwarehouse.com. Total price of $302.00 with free shipping and then I found a discount code on retailmenot.com for an extra 5% off. Total cost of $287.00 and free 3 days shipping to my door. I went with the longer ones since B&B told me a long time to go with them due to the cranked t bars and airbags in the rear. Excited to see the difference in the ride. How hard of a switch out is it. My buddy Tony and I are going to take it on. Thanks
    Aaron
     
  19. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    The front shocks are easy. A lil impact gun work on the bottom bolt gets it loose real easy. The top bolt, pending how old the old shocks are, could be rusted on and the top stud will spin. Easiest way I found was just cut the nut off and it will come right out. You wont hurt anything that way either. The back shocks could be a pain. The top mounts in these stupid things have 2 little bolts in a pocket against the bed. If they are rusted in any way, just torch the GD things out, dont waste the time doing anything else. I spent ALOT of time throwing tools and swearing under mine to get those stupid things in the top apart. With a torch, few minutes and done......be careful around the gas tank, LOL:)

    On edit, wear a hard hat under the back. I clonked my head on everything and anything too. Unless you are doing it on a lift, then you will be fine
     
  20. NCat496

    NCat496 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    On edit, wear a hard hat under the back. I clonked my head on everything and anything too. Unless you are doing it on a lift, then you will be fine[/QUOTE]

    :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: Then when you think your in the clear of getting out of the back you forget your hitch is on and it smashes you in the head and you are ready to throw it at the truck, then thats when you get the orange rattle can out to make it visible.