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Front End Lift

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by hammerstein, Mar 8, 2007.

  1. hammerstein

    hammerstein Senior Member
    Messages: 318

    I stopped into a 4 wheel drive shop toady looking for options on lifting the front end of my 06 2500HD. I have an 8' western pro plus on it and the front brackets are about 3" off the ground when the plow is raised and bottom out any everything. They suggested a set of torsion bar keys made by Ready Lift to give it a 2" lift, it also comes brackets to raise the shock 2". Kit was $229.99, $140.00 to install them and $100.00 to align when done. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  2. Frozen001

    Frozen001 Senior Member
    from Rome NY
    Messages: 908

    Fist a few questions:

    1) Have you turned up the torsion bars at all from stock?

    2) Do you have the proper ballast in the bed of the truck?

    3) How much does the truck drop when you lift the plow?
  3. hammerstein

    hammerstein Senior Member
    Messages: 318

    1. Torsion bars have not been touched from factory setting.

    2. I do not have any dedicated ballast for truck but we do load in around 1000lbs of bagged salt for sidewalks, but that gets used up during the night. I am also planning on adding a V box spreader in the near future, if that will affect the Torsion bar keys in the future.

    3. I measured the front fender with plow all the down is 36 1/2" and plow raised it is 35 1/2" so it drops a total of 1", The lowest point on the brackets for the plow mount is 5" when plow is all the way down and 3" when plow is raised.

    Thank you for your help.
  4. Before you buy anything...crank torsion bar adjusters until your happy or you max factory keys out. Sometimes you dont need aftermarket keys. I got 3" out of my stock ones. You will most likely need shock extensions if you go more than 1" (4 turns...1 turn = 1/4" in height) or so. You can get a nice shock bracket from Cognitomotorsports for $30. These install on your lower control arm. Easy to do. Just unbolt shock and bolt bracket on. Then attach shock. Some guys use washers between upper shock to extend them. So, you could achieve what you are looking for for free! You wont have any ride quality issues unless you max out shocks (thats what brackets are for) or crank so much (usually more than 2") where you run out of downward travel of front suspension (between upper control arm "UCA" and frame stop. Keep a fingers width between these and you'll have a fine ride). If you still have room between here, and you cant turn screws anymore (run out of thread), then get yourself some keys. I enhanced mine with a set of Cognito UCAs to get a full 3", fix poor ball joint angle, and still have good ride and a proper alignment.

    In any event, get an alignment after turning t-bars! Some will say you dont need it...and you may not. BUT, cheap insurance seeing that one tire is double the cost of an alignment and you wont know untill its too late and you have premature tire wear.

    I also added Timbrens. They reduced the amount of sag when raising the plow...another easy mod...but they'll set you back $140 or more (cant remember).

    Oh...jack up front to unload torsion bars a bit before cranking. Makes it easier to turn screws.
  5. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Definitely crank up your factory keys before paying good money to replace them...no reason to waste money up front.

    After cranking the bars to a height you find works for you, go get a lifetime alignment from a good shop. Plowing beats up on the front end alot...a lifetime alighnment gives you the option of getting it aligned weekly if you want.
  6. AbsoluteH&L

    AbsoluteH&L Senior Member
    Messages: 573

    I've heard you can use different factory GM keys to grt more lift. Like from a different model. Don't know for fact thats just what I heard. I don't even have a Chevy.