1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Front end clicking noise

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by mayhem, Aug 18, 2010.

  1. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    2000 3/4 ton NBS 4x4, 6.0 automatic, pushbutton 4x4. 132,000 miles. Factory suspension, no lift kit or big tires, torsion bars are pretty much turned up all the way though, still have a low front end.

    Recently startted making a clicking/grinding noise when turning to the right, the noise comes from the left half of the truck so I'm guessing its happening when the driver's side suspension is being flexed. Frequency of the noise seems to be speed dependant...the faster I go, the faster the noise it. Almost sounds like when you have rusty brake rotors and they're just touching the pads and make noise...except I've applied the brakes and any rust should be long gone. I cannot tell for sure if it gets worse when I corner hard or not. I can feel it in the steering wheel while its happening, so that suggests to me that its not near the center of the truck. Maybe somehting simple like a foreign object wedged in there, maybe a bad CV or maybe the wheel bearing is actually going out on me. Maybe I'm just not getting all the grease fittings and something has dried up. Dunno.

    Doesn't seem to make a difference if I'm in 4wd or 2wd, coasting or under acceleration. So I'm guessing its a rolling part, not a drivetrain part. But I have no idea what it actually is.

    It hasn't been making any noise at all up front. I thought I had a bad wheel bearing for awhile, turned out to just be the knobby tires I put on there making that growling noise.

    Going to get the tire off tongiht and see if I can spot anything obvious, looking for suggestions for what might not be ovbious and how to test for anything you guys can think of.

    Thanks for any help you guys might have.
     
  2. Brian Young

    Brian Young PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,382

    If its clicking around corners, sounds like a wheel bearing. Take it down a straight road and swerve left and right (slightly) and whatever side you hear the clicking from, its the opposite wheel bearing thats bad. As far as the brake noise, could be a few things, bad rotors, bad brakes, rust build up on the rotor lip, or like you said something stuck. My Ford gets pebbles stuck between the rotor and metal splash guard and it makes one hell of a loud screech noise. Best thing to do is just take the front pads off, clean the brake caliper slides and pins (if applicable) lube everything up and maybe have the rotors turned.
     
  3. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Not having a braking noise, I saw trying to explain the noise I get when turning to the right. Only working on one problem in this thread.

    So if you're right, my passenger side bearing is bad, even though the noise is coming from the driver's side?
     
  4. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    If you're turning right, it would be putting pressure on the drivers' side in a turn. Sounds like the noise I was getting from my '03 when it had a bad wheel bearing- grinding noise when making a turn. I'm no expert, just my $.02.

    I'm sure B&B will chime in- go with whatever he thinks it would be!
     
  5. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Confirmed last night that I have vertical play on the driver's side wheel. A fair bit too...the shoulder of the tire moves about an inch in and out, so its time for a new wheel bearing I guess. The passenger side had a touch of play in it, but it seemed negligible to me...safe to assume there should be zero play and that bearing is just a bit behind the driver's side or is that ok for awhile?

    The process looks fairly straightforward, though a bit labor intensive...nothing a lot of WD-40 and a long ass breaker bar can't handle though. Anyone know what size nuts I'm going to have to bust loose so I can be sure I have the right tools lined up before I get it halfway apart and can't run to the store to buy a tool?

    My budget is severely limited right now due to job loss earlier this year and a subsequent $10k/yr loss in wages with the new job. Looking for the cheapest way to get this fixed. I know Timken bearings are the best, but I see alot of others for sale at less than half the price. If I can get a couple years out of them I'd be satisfied because I'll be in a much better position financialy to get the good parts later on. How bad are these bearings likely to be?

    http://www.1aauto.com/1A/wheel-bearing-hub-front/Chevy/Silverado/1ASHF00063/333803/2000

    http://www.hubbearing.com/item.wws?sku=515041&itempk=2194723&mfr=PARTS

    I'm going to guess that the $90 bearings probably don't come wiht new studs for example...how big a deal is that? So long as they come with a 1 year warranty is this good enough or am I being foolish and should just pony up whats left of my savings and get the Timkens?
     
  6. jryden145

    jryden145 Member
    Messages: 86

    I believe car quest has a bearing with a life time warrenty.

    J
     
  7. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Thanks, waiting on a callback for a quote.
     
  8. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Carquest is $252, other local shops are all comparable. I opted to take a chance and grabbed the $88 bearing from hubbearing.com. Its complete with studs and ABS sensor and has a 1 yr warranty, no tax and shipped free UPS ground. About the best I cna hope for really...even better if it lasts me much beyond the warranty period, but for right now I just need to get to springtime.

    Thanks everyone for the help.

    Anyone know if I'll need any specific sized sockets or other tools? I have the usual weekend warrior set of SAE and metric sockets and wrenches, but nothing bigger than 20mm. Planning on gettin it odne next Saturday monring...best to be prepared.
     
  9. Mxrider069

    Mxrider069 Member
    Messages: 85

    your going to need a 36mm for the axle nut, a 18mm to get caliper hanger off and a 15mm to get the 4 bolts holding the hub in. And pray that it jumps right out of the knuckle without much effort. When you do get it out make sure you grease the flange and all that were the bearing sits so when you want to get it out next time, it will fall out.
     
  10. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Cool, just spooge in some plain ol axle grease from a tub?

    Whats a safe way to pry it out? Just use a prybar and take my time? Screwdriver and a hamer?

    Gonna hafta go get a 36mm socket this week and a new breaker bar and a long pipe to go over it. Standard socket or deep well for the axle nut? The smaller, common sizes I'm all set with.
     
  11. Mxrider069

    Mxrider069 Member
    Messages: 85

    axle grease will work, if you can find copper anti seize in a spray can that stuff works wonders and does not wash off with water. You may have to bust out the ole trusty 3lb sledge to get it out of there. You'll see what to pry/hit when you get it apart. And either a deep or shallow socket will work.
     
  12. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    I'll pick up some anti-seize...kind of thing I ought to have anyways.

    New hub didn't come with premounted studs. Gonna call the retailer tomorrow because I phoned in to specifically ask if it came with new studs and was told it did. Risk I take buying an inexpensive part...it does have the ABS sensor in it, so if necessary I guess I can pop the old studs out and reuse them, right?
     
  13. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,269

    Personally, when it comes to a bearing (especially one that will be used on a plow truck) I never take the cheap route and stick with Timbren. I've seen too many bearing failures from the cheapo's that are used on a normal truck let alone one with a plow hanging on the front.

    I'd think you'll need new studs, they are splined on the inside edge so they don't spin when being tightened.
     
  14. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    ^^ I would normally agree with you , but in this situation I'm just plain stuck and don't have the cash for Timken bearings.

    Called the sales people up and they were decent about it. Sent me 8 new studs free of charge to take care of their mistake.
     
  15. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,269

    Good deal and honestly they'll probably never give you a problem.

    I hear you about being tight on cash, its what got me into plowing (saved my house). Best of luck and I hope things turn around for you.
     
  16. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Turns out the caliper hanger bolts are 21mm, the slider pins are 18. Snapped my ratchet already so it off to sears I go.
     
  17. Mxrider069

    Mxrider069 Member
    Messages: 85

    opps :confused: Ill take the blame here haha..Did you get it done?
     
  18. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Got all but one retaining bolt out. Last one is rounding off badly. Soaked in pn blaster overnight and gonna pound on a smaller socket to get it out. After that it should be straightforward enough.
     
  19. bechbru2

    bechbru2 Junior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 15

    on the third one on the left side on my 06 2500. gm does have a lifetime warranty on them i was able to get some money out of them cause i installed myself.
     
  20. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Got the bolt out...the smaller hardened socket trick worked!

    Now I'm beating the hell out of the old hub with a 10lb sledge hammer to try and break it loose. Sucker is on there...bolts seem redundant. I see the seam is starting to upen slightly...trying to be careful because I imagine if I get on it hard enough that I'll wind up bending the axle.

    Any suggestions?