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front axle shaft

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by hinikersnowplow, Feb 10, 2015.

  1. hinikersnowplow

    hinikersnowplow Member
    from on aol
    Messages: 53

    i have a 98 dodge ram 1500 4x4 . i was wondering if i should replace the u joints in the left front axle shaft as i had to replace the right side . i had busted the right axle shaft on the outer yoke , found replacement shaft and installed new u joints in that shaft . just wondering if i should do same to other side
     
  2. chevyzrule810

    chevyzrule810 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,238

    I would that way you know your good to go and don't have to worry about the other side
     
  3. maxwellp

    maxwellp PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,112

    If you do not know if and when it was done last, I would do it. If you have replaced it before and it is not lose, leave it.
     
  4. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,512

    Check it for slop, if it's good why would you replace it?
     
  5. hinikersnowplow

    hinikersnowplow Member
    from on aol
    Messages: 53

    i checked it . the left side is pretty tight . still feel like there is something thumping in the front end with out the plow on when driving 55 to 60 down highway .
     
  6. peteo1

    peteo1 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,659

    Seriously?????? The answer is yes
     
  7. maxwellp

    maxwellp PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,112

    Should be NO movement.
    Have you replaced the track bar?
     
  8. hinikersnowplow

    hinikersnowplow Member
    from on aol
    Messages: 53

    no i have not changed the track bar on it
     
  9. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,512

    Seriously ,
    Why would you replace a good Part on one side of the truck when you fixed the other side?

    If the R side wheel bearing is bad do you replace the L side also?


    If there is movement in the u- joint when you pry on it with a bar,
    It's time to replace it. Other wise your just throwing money at it and getting nothing for it.
     
  10. hinikersnowplow

    hinikersnowplow Member
    from on aol
    Messages: 53

    I had replaced the front hubs last year. I got them as a kit so it was cheaper .

    I found the other problem. Track bar has some play in it . So I just ordered one on eBay for 60 buck compared to 100 bucks at local parts store
     
  11. peteo1

    peteo1 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,659

    Because it's a $15 part. If one has already failed the other isn't far behind. You're already there doing the job so you might as well do it right. How pissed would you be if you only replaced one side and the other side broke within the next storm or two? I'll throw away $15 on a part so I don't lose big money while it's snowing and I need to be plowing not turning wrenches because I was cheap
     
  12. cl733

    cl733 Senior Member
    from Canada
    Messages: 252

    just because it seems tight doesn't mean that's good , it could be tight with it full of rust and just getting ready to pile up , does your vibration get worse when you turn with your hubs engaged , if so then you know you got a tight ujoint
     
  13. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,512

    Locking hubs or cad......
    I believe the 98 had cad?

    The u joint is more likes 35-45 for a high quality axel joint,
    You don't want to , do it again any time soon.
    .

    I have a new axel on the passenger side and the drivers side has around
    65k on it and going strong.
    It makes no difference when it goes, as its the same amount of work to fix it.

    If one tie- rod goes bad do you replace all of them at the same time?
    I don't, just the squeaky wheel.....

    If it feels tight move on...

    How's the front drive shaft.
    Get that cv joint greased?
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2015
  14. peteo1

    peteo1 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,659

    Yes that how I do it, if one side goes then the other gets replaced as well. Is it throwing money away? Maybe but I've got piece of mind and new parts that won't let me down. I prefer to be proactive not reactive. It's not for everyone but it's what I prefer to do
     
  15. hinikersnowplow

    hinikersnowplow Member
    from on aol
    Messages: 53

    well i'm waiting on some new parts a track bar and tie rods and linkage tracks
     
  16. buddymanzpop

    buddymanzpop Senior Member
    Messages: 599

    If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
     
  17. Sprag-O

    Sprag-O Senior Member
    Messages: 220

    It's an easy job and a cheap part, why not?

    I replace rotors, pads, ball joints, bearings, u-joints and CV's in pairs. If one went, the other is almost guaranteed to be on its way out too.

    I have my vehicles aligned after I throw the front end back together, I'd rather not be paying for that twice.

    Also if you have everything already rigged up, and all the tools out, why not just do it then?
     
  18. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,512

    I can't replace any CV's in pairs as all of my DOdges only have one of them.
    (In the front drive shaft)

    Useing your logic Sprag, if one u-joint is bad you should then be replacing every one of them at the same time. ( rear drive shaft, front drive shaft)
    Along with all ball joints and tie-rod ends.

    When do you stop replacing good parts that could go another 50k or more?
     
  19. Sprag-O

    Sprag-O Senior Member
    Messages: 220


    If I have a bad u-joint in my rear shaft, I'd replace both, If you have it out of the truck and the press jigged up, why not?

    I'd only touch the fronts if one was on it's way out.

    Ball joints same thing, If I'm replacing one, I'm replacing upper and lowers.
    If a BJ or U-joint fails recently after being fixed, that's a defect and I'd rather just replace the problematic one.

    I'd prefer preventative maintenance. If the yoke on a driveshaft gets torn up, now I'm dropping 150-200 to fix a shaft a $15 part would have prevented.

    When I had the transmission apart on the wifes civic, I just needed to replace the friction material and the filters.... was I wrong to do a full rebuild with new o-rings, split rings etc? would have saved me $100.

    You can run your pads till they get to metal if you want, and run O2 sensors till you get a light on the dash too... To each their own.
     
  20. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,512

    Funny the goal posts keep moving,
    As for the brakes ther is a. Little scrapper that will start to make a grinding noise befor the metal on the pads meets the rotor.

    When did a tranny rebuild come in to play:dizzy:

    As for the rear shaft one truck has 3u-joints Ana a career bearing the other. 2 have 2 u-joints
    My press works just fine with the other end still connected.

    Just about the only shaft I agree writ you is the front drive shaft.
    I get. Rebuild if anything ng is up with it.

    You know a u-joints in most cases don't just fail in a catastrophic manner,
    They squeak and vibrate first, then you change it out befor it lets go.


    Again by your logic on preventives you should be rebuilding the truck every few years.....

    As for O2 sensors yea I waite untill the cel goes off or a code.
    Its one of those things that works or they do not , not much grey area.

    To each his own,
    The squeaky wheel gets the grease.

    Have fun replacing good parts.:waving:
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2015