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Front axle leaking...

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by DieselSlug, Dec 7, 2009.

  1. DieselSlug

    DieselSlug PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,050

    I really dont have the mony to do this right now, but it should really be done. I was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the seals where the CV shafts go into the sides of the front pumpkin and pinion seal shaft on the back of the front pumkin where the driveshaft goes in? They are all leaking VERY badly. I have to fill the front pumpkin up at least twice a month. It leaks two large puddles from the CV seals and one smaller one from the rear pinion. I just replaced my engine (AKA everything is nice and clean) and now everything is getting all grimy from the bad seals. Should i have a shop do this? Rust is a major factor here also.. I have a feeling its going to be a very expensive repair. I am mechanically inclined (did put a new engine in this) i just dont have all the "special tools" and more importantly time.....
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2009
  2. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    It probably will be $$ but it should not be put off to long...
    Good Luck on your decision...Or other posters...
  3. lilweeds

    lilweeds PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,178

    Don't really need any special tools, and it's probably only a couple hour job, but if you don't have the time.....
  4. DieselSlug

    DieselSlug PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,050

    I mean if it can be done in at the most a day then i can swing it. Just need the truck pretty much everyday. I afraid i wont be able to get the axles out of the front pumpkin, i hear they are a pain to pull. ANd i hear the drivers side is worse... I thought you need a slide hammer, things like that? THe pumpkin doesnt need to be taken out correct? How are the axles held in it? DOes the pumpkin itself need to be taken apart?
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2009
  5. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If you can't have the truck down for long then simply work on one seal at a time.

    Passenger side is easy as you have to remove the entire axle tube from the diff case to work with it so at least you're working at the bench for that one. Need to pay attention how the shims, thrust washers and spring go back in during assembly but other than that its not too tough.

    Pinion seal isn't bad but you have to be 100% sure you get the nut properly tightened back into its original position or risk ruining the gear set. And you will need a two jaw puller to remove the pinion yoke.

    And yes the driver side can be the worse one of the bunch. Sometimes it just takes the right "touch" of the pry bar and the planets in the solar system be perfectly aligned to "snap" the circlip in to allow for the drive flanges removal.
  6. Plowinpro03

    Plowinpro03 Senior Member
    Messages: 151

    Have it done, or do it soon. It's not great to run the unit low on fluid. The repair is much cheaper then to have to replace the entire thing. If your not sure what your doing, or your not confident enough to do it on your own, either find someone that has knowledge and can assist you, or have it done by a good recommended mechanic shop. You can break and do more damage to something by doing something incorrectly, which in hand will cost you more then just having it done by someone that knows what they are doing.
  7. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Just noticed tonight mine is leaking some. Pass side is worst, actual drops of gear oil. Pinion looks dry, drivers side fair.

    Just what I need, more work to do on this thing....