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Ford 7.3 2 piece oil pan

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by edosher, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. edosher

    edosher Member
    Messages: 32

    All right guys, I have the dreaded 7.3 oil pan rust problem and I need to get this fixed ASAP.

    I came across this link the other day for a 2 piece oil pan.

    SALT ate my POWERSTROKE ...........................OIL PAN

    They claim the new pan can be replaced without pulling the motor and that there is enough clearance between the crossmember and crankshaft.

    WILL THIS WORK??

    I do have a garage of tools and ambition, but I do not have the funds for a trip to the dealership for an engine pull. I also do not want to be the first guinea pig on this...

    Is there anyone else who has tried this or will try??
     
  2. Clapper&Company

    Clapper&Company PlowSite Veteran
    from NE OHIO
    Messages: 4,413

    That would be sweet if you can do this, I have never hear of this.

    But would be alot EZ then pulling to motor, keep us posted on how this works
     
  3. edosher

    edosher Member
    Messages: 32

    I know that Ford recommends that the engine has to be upside down for the gasket to seal correctly, and I know of the cons of another seal to go bad, but having a hole in your oil pan and 14 quarts of Rotella on your driveway isn't fun.

    I guess that I am asking if the front of the pan will clear the crankshaft/rods/pick-up tube and the front crossmember without unbolting the motor mounts?

    PS- New York City FD and Sanitation were cutting the crossmembers out of their trucks to change the oil pans and then welding them back in...... total time for a mechanic was 1 1/2 hours......
     
  4. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    I cut the pan for the first time doing one last spring. Instead of welding it back, I welded tabs to the ends and drilled them so that the center piece now actually bolts back in. This was it could be removed again if needed. 6 months now and no leaks though.

    The two piece idea is intriguing though.
     
  5. mike psd

    mike psd PlowSite.com Addict
    from pa
    Messages: 1,028

    how about that link so we can see it ? btw salt prob helped the problem along the way but it common problem it just poor metal
     
  6. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    Its a craiglist item for sale out of Chicago. The guy wants like $450 for it. I am going back and forth with him on e-mails

    Essentially it is a oilpan cut in half about halfway up the shallow part. Then it is flanged with a gasket and bolts. You put the front end in from the front and the back end from the back, bolt them together and then up in place.

    A good idea. I have a 97 to do and I may try it out. If I do I will take photos.
     
  7. bluerage94

    bluerage94 Senior Member
    Messages: 398

    I had the same problem with the pan, I was lucky the dealer covered it.
     
  8. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    I have seen that ad here on craigslist also. But I think if it where credible some one would be making a ton of money on it and u would be able to buy it somewhere else then some guy on craigslist. If u do it I would love to see the photos and see if it leaks less afterwards :)
     
  9. mike psd

    mike psd PlowSite.com Addict
    from pa
    Messages: 1,028

    first of all you can do that yourself if handy with a welder and metal skills . 2nd if not for can have one made at a fab / machine shop. i was under the impression that it was like a duramax style with the aluminum top with a steel sump .
     
  10. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    I looked into having pans pressed out of stainless. Because of the size and draw it would have been 600-700 with a minumum for them to do.

    I agree you could do it with a welder and wondering why it hasn't come out. That is why I want the guy to send me more so I can see what it about.

    I personally would like to see a plastic pan. Lots of big trucks running them now. Even International has one, just not sure if it would work in the Ford.
     
  11. mike psd

    mike psd PlowSite.com Addict
    from pa
    Messages: 1,028

    lets just say if there was a "simple" fix it would have been out now best one i saw was at advance auto parts pass UL labs for salt spray test . this whole problem could have been fixed with better metal and coating system and a bolt in cross member
     
  12. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    You would think someone would come up with a fix for the rust out problem. I bet they all rust out in the same places. When I bought my F-250 7 years ago it had a new pan on it.
    At the end of the last season it had 3 holes in the pan dripping oil. I fiberglassed it. But with the exhaust so close to it I don't have much faith on how long it will last.
    I just bought a 99 F-250. The diff cover had rusted out and was weeping oil. Come on ! this stuff should not rust out!!! Other than a dealership the only place I could get a replacement cover was Summitracing near me. The guy that sold me the cover said he sells 2-3 a week to Ford owners with the same problem.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2008
  13. Wieckster

    Wieckster Senior Member
    Messages: 131

    Have you guys heard of POR-15 it is a paint sealant system that will go right over rust I bought a kit and am going to do my oil pan in my 01 ford Guys on the ford sites swear by this stuff I will let you know when I get it done look it up for more info
     
  14. dieselmac99

    dieselmac99 Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    I know this an old thread, but I was looking for either an upgraded or two piece pan.... still no luck. Saw the comment about the NYDOT cutting crossmembers to do it. When I was going to have one done, I called mass diesel in walpole for a price and it was like 900 bucks and they cut it. turnaround was one day. local ford dealer wanted 1800 and 1 week to do it.
     
  15. forestfireguy

    forestfireguy PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,276

    Our staff mechanic does the cut and bolt method.
     
  16. JohnnyRoyale

    JohnnyRoyale 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,935

  17. dieselmac99

    dieselmac99 Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    Ya I had seen that cap from damian. I've heard mixed things about it, but hey if you're gonna change it anyway, it can't hurt (well except for your wallet). You would think somebody would have put a heavier modified version into production by now...
     
  18. dellwas

    dellwas Senior Member
    Messages: 369

    Yup, that would be Damian and he is a member on here. Do a search, and you'll find a few posts about his process. Mine is holding up to JB Weld, but I'll be contacting him to have a kit shipped out, or doing the cut and bolt method when the time comes.

     
  19. camaro 77

    camaro 77 Senior Member
    from ma
    Messages: 283

    I have a buddy that does them alot and does not cut the frame or the pan I think he does them for rt around 600 I think he jacks the motor up with the turdo removed he loves them and it is his gravy work he is a diesel tech at a dealer and does them at his shop at his house
     
  20. dieselmac99

    dieselmac99 Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    well that is certainly an interesting approach.