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? for those who converted vbox to electric

Discussion in 'Ice Management' started by s&mll, Dec 4, 2011.

  1. s&mll

    s&mll Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 260

    What gauge does everyone run from battery to salter 4?

    If using second battery on salter housing can you just run 4 from salter battery to motor, then use the factory 12v trailer wire to charge the battery?

    I think the wire is 14 or 12 under the bumper would that be enough to keep the salter battery charged?
     
  2. Moonlighter

    Moonlighter Senior Member
    Messages: 643

    [/COLOR]
    Yes make sure you have 13.7-14 volts from the wire when truck running and nothing when off. An extra ground to your battery from your frame never hurts too.
     
  3. s&mll

    s&mll Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 260

    Thank you. Just saved me a bunch of money. I was gonna run 4 gauge from truck all the way to salter
     
  4. leigh

    leigh PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,987

    My factory made electric with 1 hp auger and 1/4 hp spinner has an 8 from battery to controller and from the controller back to sander- 10 to the auger motor and 12 to the spinner
     
  5. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    I modeled all my conversions on my snoway electric v box. It has a 1/2hp 40amp motor. I made up a harness of 10 guage just like the Snoway has. I think 4 guage is way overkill.
     
  6. deicepro

    deicepro PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,124

    I agree, 4 guage is wasteful, 8 guage will work
     
  7. s&mll

    s&mll Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 260

    Im saying use 4 gauge from salter battery to salter motor.

    But use the 10gauge factory wire at trailer connector to charge the salter battery.

    That way the only wire I would have to run is some 14 from switch in cab to constant duty solenoid on salter.


    Really besides for the motor and some sprockets this conversion should be pretty inexpensive compared to a 800 dollar briggs.

    Second question. The coiled up red wire under the hood{by brake master cyl} (08 2500hd) Once I hook that up to the stud on the fuse box under the hood is it live? or do I have to add a mini fuse to the spot under the fuse box? I have not looked. Guess it would be labled trailer power or something
     
  8. Moonlighter

    Moonlighter Senior Member
    Messages: 643

    For me I would run it fused, I double fused one at each end of my trickle wire.

    Hope this helps. BrianThumbs Up
     
  9. s&mll

    s&mll Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 260

    Helps a lot thanks. Always nice to have to reassurance from others who have done the conversion.... Northern is on backorder. And grainger wants 550 for a Dayton..... Looks like I will be running the techumsh for a few more weeks
     
  10. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    I use Leeson motors. 5/8" shaft 1800 rpm 56C case. These were a direct replacement for the Canadian motor on the Snoway which I have heard is like $850. I got a bunch of Leesons from Surplus but even from other places I think they were only $300
     
  11. s&mll

    s&mll Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 260

    Everywhere online for 3/4hp is about 150 more then northern. for a leeson

    daytons are even more