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Flushing MM1 SEHP Plow

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by MRBachand, Oct 18, 2009.

  1. MRBachand

    MRBachand Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    The fluid in my resevoir looks horrible, Either way I'm draining it, and refreshing it with fisher blue, as I'm rebuilding my lift piston and replacing an angle hose anyhow.

    I also had fluid penetrating into my motor resulting in black deposits in the fluid. I drained the resevoir and can see this black resedue stuckl to the walls and the pump. (wipes off easily).

    This is what I plan on doing to flush the system.

    Re-fill with Fresh cheap ATF fluid. Run plow for about 15-20 minutes to get things moving and warm,

    Then drain that, again removing angle hoses and manually moving plow to get it all out, then refill with Fisher blue and call it done.

    What do you think? Any better ideas?
     
  2. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    The black deposits are pretty normal, just normal wear from packings, just as long as you didnt find chunks or stringy type things in there.

    You can go through the whole process of filling, running and draining or clean the resevoir , pump and filter and if you want, after your blown out the cylinder you can draw a little kerosene into them and blow that back out.
     
  3. MRBachand

    MRBachand Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    You mean take the ram hose and put it in a bucket of kerosene, manually angle plow causing it to suck it up, then angle back to blow it back out?
     
  4. bill 1964

    bill 1964 Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    i have to flush out my mm1 as well and wondering what the differance is between straight hyd. fluid and fisher or generic plow hyd. fluid. i know trans fluid has friction modifiers added for certain auto transmissions but curious if fisher or other brands of plow fluid has certain addatives or may be a differant viscosity?
     
  5. MRBachand

    MRBachand Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    I've been asking for a while now, and searching, and came to the conclusion that fisher ez flow blue fluid has an extremely low temp pouring fluid, and has been engineered, researched and designe by fisher for this exact purpose.

    Thus I came to the conclusion that for 22 bux a gallon, it just makes sense to use it.

    I am planning on using the ATF just to flush the old fluid out, as its cheap, and has mild detergent Then after thourough flushing of the atf fill it with Fisher Blue.

    Howard P Fairfield in Worcester has fantastic prices on everything btw.

    Some have recommended adding seafoam for tranny's in with the fisher fluid, but I think I'm going straight fisher, as I'm also rebuilding my lift piston and should solve all moisture issues.
     
  6. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Yup, if you want to go that far.
     
  7. MRBachand

    MRBachand Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    Gotcha. I don't think I need to go that far. I think the ATF then flushing that and filling with Fisher blue will be more than adequate.
     
  8. bill 1964

    bill 1964 Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    mr bachand thanks for the info on the fisher fluid, ill be doing the exact same thing on mine soon !
     
  9. MRBachand

    MRBachand Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    Any special procedure for filling a completely drained system? Or will the air work out of the rams by using it and the air rising pretty easily?

    FWIW about the fisher blue, I picked up the gallon today at 29df otuside, and it jiggled like water in there. The atf and other oils I had on the shelf were thick like oil.....
     
  10. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,033

  11. MRBachand

    MRBachand Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    I have now, thanks to you. Very useful.
     
  12. MRBachand

    MRBachand Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    Whats the link to your plow rebuild thread?
     
  13. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,033

    mmm, I can't recall. I think I have 20 or so PDF files on my computer from that project & another 50 on others projects. LOL. I had an air bubble problem with mine after I got it all back together, between B&B and that I solved the problem.
     
  14. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    WARNING******
    CAUTION*******

    when placing the uncoupled/free end of the hose in a unused container and hitting a function on the controller that theres close to 2000 psi coming out of a hose that has a 1/4 inch inside diameter. Fluid at this pressure will blow through skin, will shot a quart bottle across the shop at good rate of speed, and if shot into a open bucket it will return the fluid to the ceiling of your shop and the hood of your truck..

    Use extreme caution if you flush your system this way!!!!!!
     
  15. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,033

    C'mon Crash! Your taking all the fun out of it! :laughing::laughing::laughing:
     
  16. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    If your going to do any of the things i warned you about at least take video and share it with us.

    I can tell you from experience that the fluid returning to the tank on a unimount MVP will blow a defective vent cap 16' straight up to the metal ceiling and dent it along with covering you with fluid as you watch it go by your face.

    Just ask NO Lead, he will tell you, its pretty funny after the fact.....
     
  17. MRBachand

    MRBachand Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    IT will make a mess for sure, but hydraulics build pressure in a closed system, an open ended hose would only shoot 2000psi if the pump outputted a constant 2000psi, which it does no such closeness.

    You will be getting constant flowrate out of the pump, whatever volume that may be at alot lower PSI than 2000lbs.

    Kind of similar to running an air compressor with the valve open in the tank, vs cracking the valve once its full of pressure.