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Fisher Plow Wobble

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by RepoMan207, Nov 9, 2008.

  1. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,037

    My 8' HD fisher has a wobble to it. I can't see the pin hole good enough to see if it is in fact egged out or not. From experince is this normally the case? Is it the pin that just gets worn, or is it the pin hole that actually eggs out? I am replacing every pin and bolt anyway on reassembly when I get the plow back from the Blaster, but I want to have a plan in line if the hole is fact egged out. How does one fix this?
     
  2. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,037

    Odd.......thread won't go to the top........SEAN??????
     
  3. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    They usually wear the blade or the A-frame more than the actual pin itself. Need to weld the worn holes up and re drill (or) grind it round again. Not a bad job just takes a little time.
     
  4. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,037

    Thanks man, I will go take a closer look at it today.
     
  5. chcav1218

    chcav1218 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    The same thing is going on with my plow. I noticed it more after I reassembled it today. It wasn't as bad before because all the pins had been welded in place. Maybe thats why the guy that owned it last had done that? Idk, but it was a pain to get it taken apart.
     
  6. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,037

    Weld the center pin??? How will it angle?
     
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Likely only welded the pin to the blade ribs...not to the T-frame as well. It's a common low grade technique used to tighten up a worn plow rather than fixing it correctly.
     
  8. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,037

    Thats kinda what I thought it might be. I'm that over kill guy. I am probably the only guy you know to dump $2000 into a 96 MM1. It will be brand new by the time I am done.
     
  9. NICHOLS LANDSCA

    NICHOLS LANDSCA PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 4,310

    Over kill yes, but like you said it's NEW now and cheaper than buying a new one.
     
  10. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,037

    absolutley.
     
  11. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,037

    Well.....the center pin has hardley any shaping to it all. It's only the very top hole, and barley noticeable. I had to get on my knees and look real close. It has 6 contact points and all the rest are perfect down through the hole. I had to use a center punch to get the pin out. I will see what New Bolts, Pins, and Torsion Spring will do to it.
     
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Doesn't sound too bad...

    Did you inspect the rear A-frame pin holes where it attaches to the head gear? They wear those as well, and will make it seem like it has a sizable amount of wear.
     
  13. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,037

    yup, looking good there too. I did notice ALOT of egging in the center (ram connect) Lift arm though. It's getting a new MM2 lift arm and pin. I can't see that as the problem though, thats a up and down movement not side to side.
     
  14. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,037

    Did you know that Spring tool doesn't work on the earlier MM1's as far as removal. You have to drill a hole for where the caging pin goes.
     
  15. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Just adds to the fun when working with a classic. :D