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Fisher backdrag edge..."pics"

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by Raymond S., Oct 31, 2009.

  1. Raymond S.

    Raymond S. Senior Member
    Messages: 513

    Here is my version of what I came up with for a backdrag edge. Got my new edge put on today (kinda, I'm missing the hardware so just a couple bolts on it right now) and I used the old one for a backdrag blade. Made up the brackets you see w/ the square tubing for the swing assembly. I drilled and sleeved the tubing for a 5/8" pin. Had to notch for the spring brackets and also weld in some plates under the support brackets for a stop. I'll throw some pics up right now and answer questions later.
    Hope this gives someone a good idea.

    [​IMG]

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  2. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    Good luck with that... Nice job and all but you will not be happy.... The back drag will hang much to low... you may need to have some sort of traveling chain.. maybee i missed the memo on radiators don't need air to cool..
     
  3. Jerre Heyer

    Jerre Heyer Senior Member
    Messages: 948

    Yeah and watch out for the now non existent trip. Your box tubing is up against the back of the blade. IF it trips it's going to punch thru the mold board or tear something up.
     
  4. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    Wow I even missed that part .. But you are 100% correct .. they have those designed a specific way for a reason...
     
  5. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    I agree it hangs low, and that might be a problem. I'm not convinced the trip action is compromised base on these pics. The pivot point is not at the moldboard/base angle seam, it's quite a ways aft of that. Might need to angle back those square tube pieces for a litttle more clearance to be sure.
     
  6. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    I vote go wack a manhole and post the pics!!!..
     
  7. Raymond S.

    Raymond S. Senior Member
    Messages: 513

    First off, you are correct on the trip edge, I overlooked that. I'll need to torch the ends of the tubing to correct that. That's what the pics are for though, to get ideas. However, my radiator could be just about plugged shut w/ my 7.3 and I don't think I will have an overheating issue. My truck runs on the cool side all winter w/ my plow in the same position as it will be now. So no, you didn't miss the memo on radiators needing air to cool, but you did miss the one about 7.3 diesels needing as much as you may think:drinkup:

    There may still be a few tweaks here and there like I said, torch the tubing to allow it to trip (which for the record I have never tripped this edge) maybe shorten my lift chain if it proves to run too low, but all in all I think it'll be alright. Several of the ones I saw when searching the sight hung about as low perhaps a bit lower than this, I think it'll be fine.
     
  8. stillen

    stillen Senior Member
    Messages: 247

    i like it....... thx for the ideas..
     
  9. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    If ya need to you could always cut the stops off the bottom of the head gear to gain more plow hieght... You may do all driveways so no need to hang to back drag while plowing a large lot..

    good luck hope it all works out for ya..
     
  10. vmj

    vmj Senior Member
    from conn
    Messages: 752

    NICE JOB.... NICE WELDS... What holds it from folding forward? It needs to stand stright up i would think wright?
     
  11. MRBachand

    MRBachand Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    Perhaps some springs to force it to push downward would not only help it in the backdragging plowing, but would force it to scrape the ground when plowing forward, constantly sharpening the point/angle.

    Nice work.

    Perhaps some rubber/squishable bushings under the main trip springs would let teh weight of the plow keep pressure downward, without taking weight off of the main cutting edge, yet keep it from flapping up when backdragging, and maintaining angle sharpness too.
     
  12. MRBachand

    MRBachand Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    IF it was mounted a little higher, and had almost the same angle as the factory cutting edge, without the ability to pivot, it would also mantain a better cutting sharpness, and get the main and the back at teh same size, and they would share the weight of the plow, keeping both sharp, and both always making contact.

    Another idea.
     
  13. vmj

    vmj Senior Member
    from conn
    Messages: 752

    I think your saying to mount it straight up and down and secure it to plow at the same height of front edge... Set back enough for trip edge on brackets with bolts so u can remove if needed.
     
  14. MRBachand

    MRBachand Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    Maybe not straight up and down, but angled backwards, almost imitating the opposite of the front cutting edge's angle, so it still maintains a 'point'.
     
  15. vmj

    vmj Senior Member
    from conn
    Messages: 752

    Thats what i was thinking after i posted...I been looking to do this for a while now, i even spoke to a welder already... i'm going to run this by him and see what we can do. :)
     
  16. Raymond S.

    Raymond S. Senior Member
    Messages: 513

    I shortened the lift chain today and the backdrag blade is about 6" off the ground. When I add rear weight to the truck I will gain a little more so I think the height will be alright.
    I need to replace the large 3/4" bolt you see that holds the edge to the swing bracket w/ a flathead. Right now that bolt will drag the pavement. I added that because for some reason my tack welds snapped real easy making me fear the possibility of my welds breaking in operation, so I added the bolt as a precaution. I don't know if it was something about the hard blade but the tacks crystallized after welding and didn't have alot of strength. When I welded complete it had strength but better safe than sorry.
    In hindsight, I think maybe a better option would be to mount the blade to a similiar bracket where the trip edge pivots. Just take the pins out, slide bracket over and replace the pin. So the same pivot would be utilized for the trip edge as the backdrag blade. Of course you would have to torch out where the springs are similiar to what I did. I haven't thought it out thoroughly but I think it would have been easier than the welding and now relieving of my square tubing.
    Some of you have mentioned the rear facing blade at the same height as the front cutting edge. Backdragblades.com actually is like that. The only problem is you have to torch out for the bracing that runs along the back of the trip edge. I thought this would be a pain in the butt so I decided to build my own, that and it runs about $200. It also utilizes the same bolt pattern as the main cutting edge. It is 1/4" steel and wears at the same rate as the front cutting edge, only faces backwards. Again, probably would have been easier than what I did, but I saved $200.
    ]I am glad I did what I did and I think it will work good for me. In hindsight though I think the easiest thing would be to spend the $200 on the backdragblade.com blade and just torch out where needed. I think it would work alright and you would maintain a sharp edge at the same rate as the main edge. For someone where plow lift height is an issue, I don't think my setup would be a good option. For me, height is not a problem but if it was you would not want this dragging all the time, again something that would be avoided with the backdragblade.com option.
    It sounds like I'm pitching their blade rather than my design but I'm not, just trying to give some honest feedback on what I found while fabbing this up.
     
  17. Raymond S.

    Raymond S. Senior Member
    Messages: 513

    There are two plates welded beneath the trip edge supports that act as forward stops, it keeps the blade at about -5 degrees when backdragging, just past vertical.
     
  18. vmj

    vmj Senior Member
    from conn
    Messages: 752

    Thanks, i saw thoes on backdrag.com too. i called them and they said they had nothing to work on a fisher plow... but are working on something soon.
     
  19. Raymond S.

    Raymond S. Senior Member
    Messages: 513

    The guy I talked to said "Yeah, we sell them for Fisher you just have to torch out for the bracing on the trip edge."

    You might try getting ahold of Jerry Heyer from one of the previous posts in this thread. I THINK he is working on or already has edges for these Fishers. I could be wrong but it seems I read that on here somewhere?
     
  20. vmj

    vmj Senior Member
    from conn
    Messages: 752

    I will do a search for him. Thanks.. Thats funny because i just called their last fri... i guess it all depends on who u talk to.. LOL