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First post! Meyer ST 7.5

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by rpm-inc, Dec 1, 2011.

  1. rpm-inc

    rpm-inc Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    First post, been looking around a while! Awesome site.

    I bought a used complete st 7.5 that came off a 99 f150. The truck and plow were bought new together in 99. Everything was in decent shape except the moldboard. It was useable, but I hate rust and it had a few holes. Cut the skin off, and got a new piece of 12 gauge rolled. After sandblasting the frame, I realized the pivot tubes were shot. Cut those out but decided to just order the complete ribs with the pivot tubes already welded in.

    This is all going on my 99 expedition. I got the frame bracket and pump/light bracket installed, waiting on my welder buddy to get the moldboard welded up.

    The wiring harnesses were completely hacked. A zillion spices including a lamp cord! Got it all tore apart and I know what goes where. I think the guy I bought it from said he ran the wiring through the door....???? Which means he extended it with whatever he could find...


    So here are my questions....

    It looks like heavy gauge wire I have for +battery to solenoid is for a side post battery. I have a top post. What is the best way to hook that up? I am thinking a different cable from batt+ to the lug on the starter?

    The headlight wiring..... it looks like he only had on/off for the lights and no signals. There is an adapter available so I dont have to splice/hardwire?

    Thanks for any help!
     
  2. leolkfrm

    leolkfrm PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    the meyer site has instuctions and diagrams online...very helpful i found out....make sure the power for the controls can be shut off, either by the ign or a switch
     
  3. Dubl0Vert

    Dubl0Vert Senior Member
    Messages: 178

    Welcome! Sorry your first post has you in a Rat's Nest! I feel your pain, my last purchase had an orange extension cord setup for the headlights. I'm ashamed to say I never resolved the situation:eek: I only drive on a few public roads and they are usually deserted when I'm out there, so I drive carefully. The wiring doesn't heat up and its fused so....leaving well enough alone.

    For your Batt+ to the solenoid, the local autoparts places are filled with different sized prefab batt cables, make you measurements and find one that matches up....or replace your batt with one that has top and side posts. Many guys find that to be the best way to hookup accessories with a heavy draw.

    My wife would Kick my A$$ if I mounted a plow on her Navi.....but I can't say I haven't though about it! You might need some Timbrens & a few cranks on the torsion bars to keep the nose up.

    Best of luck!
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2011
  4. leolkfrm

    leolkfrm PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    forgot to mention...you can get side bat terminal with an extended post
     
  5. rpm-inc

    rpm-inc Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    I guess I should have opened the hood before I asked. I am going to hook the cable up to the starter solenoid which is right next to the battery. Don't see why this won't work?

    Yes, I am going to put a switch to turn the plow power off and on. Also going to with the high low beams with relays like on smith bros site.

    Thanks for your help.
     
  6. rpm-inc

    rpm-inc Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    Here is when I got it. Looks in better shape in the picture than it actually was.
    [​IMG]

    Skin cut off.
    [​IMG]

    After blasting frame and welding new skin on,
    [​IMG]


    You can see the pro wings in the foreground in this picture. Brackets werent welded on yet.
    [​IMG]

    The moldboard and sector are out getting powdercoated. Going with white for the moldboard. Then some reflective tape on the ends.
     
  7. rpm-inc

    rpm-inc Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    Switch on the left is low/off/high for the lights, and switch on the right is on/off for plow power.
    [​IMG]

    And the slick stick mounted.
    [​IMG]

    Decided to go through the e47 and I am glad I did. It was actually fairly clean inside, but the the crossover relief was a rusty mess. Also the check ball under the b valve was missing!!!???

    I am assuming this thing only went up and down. Got it all back together and a fresh coat of black paint.

    Do I need to get a gauge to check the pressure, or if it works good, just leave it?

    I put way more money into this old plow than I planned, but I will be basically into a brand new older plow for about 1700.
     
  8. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,672

    Your truck and plow lights are on at the same time? As for the pump, if you didn;t mess with the relief valve you should be fine. If you did, I would be a good idea to get a gauge and check the pressure.
     
  9. rpm-inc

    rpm-inc Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    THe toggle switch on the dash controls the plow lights only. THe relief valve was replaced with a new one, so yes, I messed with it.
     
  10. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,672

    You stated you replaced the crossover valve, this is different than the relief valve. Relief is located on the pump, below the motor.
     
  11. rpm-inc

    rpm-inc Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    Gotcha. I have seen it called the crossover relief valve and confused the 2. The crossover valve is adjustable also, though. I did not remove the relief valve that is on the pump below the motor.
     
  12. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    would it not had been cheaper to buy another blade rather then do all that work to repair it?
     
  13. rpm-inc

    rpm-inc Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    What fun is that? But seriously, maybe.... if you find the right deal. I would drive all over burning tons of fuel to look at rusted out junk that i already had. 100 for the 12 ga steel, 100 to get it rolled, 100 for the new pivot ribs, 200 for powdercoat (including the sector). This thing is brand new. Should be up and running tomorrow.
     
  14. Boomer123

    Boomer123 Senior Member
    Messages: 340

    Post pictures
     
  15. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    Well I guess you right, 500.00 for a new blade is not to bad.
    I guess I forget that they rust out so bad up north. The dang things last for ever down here mostly because they never get used.

    My dad has a service station and he is all the time taking plow set ups off of trucks that find there way down to KY, he just scraps or gives them away since no one really wants them until its snowing.
     
  16. rpm-inc

    rpm-inc Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    Its on and it works!!! Just in time for no snow in the foreseeable future.....

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  17. rpm-inc

    rpm-inc Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The front squats an inch with the blade in the air.
     
  18. G.Landscape

    G.Landscape Senior Member
    from Ontario
    Messages: 850

    That looks really good. Did you sandblast and paint the mounts too or just the skin?
     
  19. rpm-inc

    rpm-inc Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    I did the sector in gloss black. I may do the rest of it in the spring.
     
  20. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    Thumbs UpThumbs Up Looks good!