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F250 Oil Pan

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by CT18fireman, Nov 30, 2001.

  1. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Doing an oil pan replacement on a 95 F250 4x4. Anyone ever done one? What a pain so far. The big crossmember is in the way. Already had to remove intake. Disconnect hoses and lines, Disconnect motor mounts, lift motor. Loosened pan bolts. Now I have to drop the pickup from inside the pan according to the book. Any hints would be helpful.
     
  2. fordhipo

    fordhipo Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    I've done more of these then I want to remember. Sounds like you are doing everything in the right order so far. If you haven't pulled the pan out yet what we used to do is take a sawsall and cut the pan in half and pull it out in two pieces (watching out for the oil pump pick up tube laying in oil pan). It seems the replacement pan was just a little shorter and fits in better then the old one comes out. Start the two bolts and nut before tighting any thing up. Good luck
    Ken
     
  3. GeoffD

    GeoffD PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,266

    Had one done the other day, I sent it to the dealer.

    For less thank 1 K i got a new rear main seal, and oil pan. I am not going to mess with that. The job is rated at 6.8 hours for the pan, and 6.3 for the seal. It is just one long crappy job.

    Geoff
     
  4. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Really? I got the replacement from an aout parts store. Is it a little smaller or a different shape? I was thinking about cuting it to get it past the front main cap. Looks like this will hang me up tomorrow. Just was thinking I still got to get the new one in.

    So taking the intake plenum off is the key to raising the motor up? Tried to get past it without doing that.

    Oh well.
     
  5. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    Yep Fords better idea. Rotted oil pans in less than 7 years. Boy shure glad I am a bow tie guy.
    Dino
     
  6. GeoffD

    GeoffD PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,266

    The motor must be jacked up, and the trans removed from the motor, so that you are able to jack the engine high enough. I have heard in some cases you must remove the motor from the truck. My best advice is bite the bullet and let the dealer do it.

    If it isn't the exact same size and shape, you might have the wrong pan.

    Geoff
     
  7. fordhipo

    fordhipo Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    The front cap was the real tight spot on the old pan that's why I cut them out. The new pan is the same shape just seemed a little shorter by maybe an 1/8 inch, was just enough to clear the front cap.
    The upper intake plenum was strange some we had to remove some we could lift high enough to clear with it on.
    Ken
     
  8. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    According to my book and the dealer serviceman I know the Motor does not have to come out. Instead by removing the manifold you can get enough lift. I guess I will find out tomorrow.

    351 Motor and 5 spd by the way
     
  9. fordhipo

    fordhipo Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Dino: we had some come in that were rotted out in 3 years. The 300-6 were the worst.
    GeoffD: we were able to do them with the trans still in , just a real tight fit and a knukle buster.
    Ken
     
  10. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    That is my concern. I know I could get it out if I pull hard enough;) or cut. I just want to be able to get the thing back in.

    On another note. Dealer wanted 150 for on, Junkyard 75, Parts Store New 55. Seemed kinda funny to me
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2001
  11. thelawnguy

    thelawnguy PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,011

    Heh, when that cheapie pan is rotted thru in a year and your at it again we shall see what the "real" bargain is...

    Doesnt ford paint these things? Tho every blue oval Ive encountered leaks enough from the front seal that the pan should never rust.
     
  12. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    Instead of Quality is Job 1
    it should read Part sales are job 1
    That problem right there is enough for me never to want a ford. Yet you guys keep going back over and over ......
    I guess some people never learn.
    Dino
     
  13. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Just finished! It was actually fairly easy. Once the manifold came off the engine went up enough that the pan fell right out. New on in and everything works fine. He should get another 150,000 now.
     
  14. fordhipo

    fordhipo Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Great! Glad it worked out.
    Ken
     
  15. BATTLIN_BLAZES

    BATTLIN_BLAZES Member
    Messages: 82

    guess what im another one of those fools dino,lmao got rid of my 95 f150 with the rotted oil pan @ 63,000 miles:mad: wasnt real happy with ford, but yes i went back and bought my 2nd ford...was a die hard chevy guy for years....big earnhardt fan...(R.I.P. BUDDY)...just hoping that problems gone with this 01`anyone with a newer f-150 have bad news to share id love to here it?ive heard something about the power window motors actually cracking the doors anyone else have this problem?guess if this one dont hold up its back to bowties.....just wish theyd put some ground clearance back under those chevies....of course on another note my dads 01 chevy has been no stranger to the wrecker:D ....maybe it goes back to that never buy a vehicle that was made on monday or friday:confused: theory?



    rich
     
  16. speedracer241

    speedracer241 Senior Member
    Messages: 325

    the newer f-150's i have worked on tend to crack the doorskin at the back edge of the door glass. starts out as a pretty small crack but can get larger and cause rust in that spot. fords remedy was to replace the doors with the exact same style door, no reinforcement on anything in that area. we replaced lots of those under warranty. was told their theory (fords) was to get them out of warranty and then it was the customers problem. not working for a ford dealer now so i dont know of too many problems.

    well good luck with your new truck
    Mark K
     
  17. intimidator

    intimidator Member
    Messages: 69

    If its a 5.4 L, right headgasket has a tendency to leak oil. Also seen a few broken torsoin bars.

    Jason
     
  18. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    Is that head gasket, or valve cover gasket?
    Dino
     
  19. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    That is the valve cover. I have done a few of these.

    250-350 and up uses leaf springs
    150 everyone I have ever seen uses Coils. Unless the new 150s are different

    Chevy uses Torsion bars
    Toyota did as well until 95
    I think Torsion Bar suspensions are great unless one is trying to support a diesel and a plow.
     
  20. BATTLIN_BLAZES

    BATTLIN_BLAZES Member
    Messages: 82

    no springs on my 01 f-150 just fyi not sure when they changed to the torision bars?holding a 5.4 with a plow well i guess time will tell it`ll be allright for the little to no abuse im going to give it these things cost too much to abuse....:eek: