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F-700 help

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by 04red2500, Mar 23, 2009.

  1. 04red2500

    04red2500 Member
    from MI
    Messages: 72

    Ive got a F-700 one of the sparkplugs broke and the thread are still stuck in the head try heating it and useing an ezout any ideas would be great:angry:
  2. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Heat and a left handed drill really slow?
  3. 04red2500

    04red2500 Member
    from MI
    Messages: 72

    not enought room for a drill
  4. Joe Lombardo

    Joe Lombardo Member
    Messages: 63

    Is there enough metal to weld a bolt onto the spark plug? I know this works to remove bolts that are snapped off.
  5. 04red2500

    04red2500 Member
    from MI
    Messages: 72

    there would be if i could get my welder into place my mig gun is too big
  6. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Any amount sticking up? Take a drimal with cut off wheel and make flats. Find a wrench that will fit and turn it out.
  7. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    I've never removed a broken spark plug, but have some experience with frozen bolts and such. First thing is that you need patience. Sounds like space is an issue, and the EZ out is the only way you can turn the plug at this point. I would heat the plug. Hot and fast. Like a MAPP gas or Oxy Acetylene torch. Heat the plug, and spray PB Blaster (or whatever you like) around the thread area. The heat should burn out the corrosion, and draw the PB into the threads. You will probably need to do this several time. I would think you could get the plug red hot. Then, use a nice sharp EZ out to try and turn the plug. Make sure you have a solid grip on the EZ out, like vise grips. Then turn, slowly.

    Good luck
  8. GPS

    GPS Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 268

    I assume the threaded barrel of the plug is all that's left in the head.

    Normal E-Z outs are tapered, meaning they expand the piece as you turn more. Snap On has a set of straight-splined extractors that you knock in with a hammer, slip on a hex sleeve, and turn the part out.

    The best way I've found to do this is to heat the piece up until it glows, and then let it cool down. Hopefully, any corrosion breaks away due to the dissimilar expansion/contraction rates of the plug piece and the head. Spray some PB Blaster or rust penetrant on it and let it wick into the threads. Knock in the extractor, and work the piece free.

    If the plug is just completely galled to the head threads, you'll probably end up drilling it out and installing a Helicoil.

    The kit I referred to is this: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1254&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

    Others may make similar kits, but I don't know that for sure. Non-tapered extractors are the way to go on something with a thin wall. Tapered extractors just jam the threads together.

    Hopefully, this info helps.

  9. MJD82

    MJD82 Member
    Messages: 54

    GPS is most likely right with the second scenario the galling to the head I had the same experience a couple years ago on my ranger. I snapped the #1 plug off I wound up pulling the drivers side head and drilling and tapping the head. most parts stores carry thread repair kits with a tap and threaded plug sleeves. Hate to say it but if you cant get a drill down there you might be pullin the head.
  10. clark lawn

    clark lawn PlowSite.com Addict
    from NE ohio
    Messages: 1,233

    try to find a junkyard motor. i just had the same thing happen on my f350 and by the time i got the parts neccassry to pull the head and reinstall i found a junkyrd motor with less miles for half of what the parts would cost me. when you pull the head you unbolt the exhaust manifold it is most likly going to warp and have to be replaced. plus intake and head gaskets your pushing around 1000 dollars just in parts.