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Extreme V general questions

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by oldmankent, Dec 3, 2011.

  1. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    Ok. I got this used 9'-6" Extreme V. I'm trying to go through it and get it ready for snow. I still need to change the fluid. I've read the manual and the fluid flush seems pretty straight forward. Is there a filter to change too though? I didn't read anything about a filter. Also, I haven't totally set up the height and angle of the plow yet, but I'm working on it. Have to ballast the truck, get 3" stops on and check all bolts and pins. In the T-frame at the three adjustment holes, should that part of the frame have movement to it? My plow seems loose there with up and down movement. I'm not sure if that is supposed to move or not. Also, seems like my bottom motor cover catch is missing. I just bungied the thing together. Is it worth getting a new bottom catch or should I just stick with the bungie? Also, just installed a new 5/8" cutting edge. got the edge at Salem Brake and Clutch. They had 1/2" and 5/8" and the 5/8" was only $12 more. Well, the center edges are the regular 1/2" and the outers are the 5/8". But, the center pieces have that supporting piece welded on to them so they carry onto the outer edges. Well, with the thicker outer edges, the center edges don't bear completely on the plow, but only at the very end. Do you think this might be risky and put extra pressure on the plow where it shouldn't have it? Thanks, Nick.
     
  2. CT-TILEMAN

    CT-TILEMAN Member
    Messages: 61

    I have four seasons on my 8.6V and decided to change the screen/filter this year, it was a waste of time. I properly maintain/change the fluid annually and the screen looked brand new.

    If it were me I would disconnect all hoses and drain the rams and pump reservoir and refill/bleed and call it a day.

    Good Luck
     
  3. winged1dur

    winged1dur Senior Member
    Messages: 124

    How much did you pay for the 5/8" cutting edges ?
     
  4. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    I think it was $411. I'll check. I tried to go deaf close my eyes and just handed over the credit card. I'll check my receipt. They were cheaper than Langs 1/2" edges and alot closer. Hardware Included
     
  5. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    I also just noticed that when I drive around with the plow in semi-v mode that the driver side wing bleeds down and goes to fully retracted. Any ideas as to the cause of this? Thanks, Nick
     
  6. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

  7. Mike NY

    Mike NY Senior Member
    from zone 5
    Messages: 103

    Your T frame is loose. Put your ballast in the truck then level plow (put in V as per fisher manual) you (will) may need to replace those bolts in your T frame if the threads are buggered. Needs to be tight. Check often. Will cause damage to the isolation module if you are stacking snow and you have slop in there, probibly why you are missing lower part of cover. Look to see if it got hit.
     
  8. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    I had a hard time keeping the four T-frame to push frame bolts tight. I finally used double nuts, that seemed to do the trick.
     
  9. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    Did you have to use longer bolts? I'm probably going to have to use some heat to get those bolts off.
     
  10. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Yeah, I bought new 3/4 inch bolts and nuts. I used a regular hex nut, then backed it up with a Nylock nut. Fine thread would be better, but I was OK with coarse. Grade 5 at least, G8 is better. Buy the proper sized wrenches/sockets so you can tighten them properly. This is no place for big adjustables or pipe wrenches.
     
  11. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    Ive got a 3/4" ratchet set, although it just broke. I'll have to use a breaker bar and pipe to tighten them up. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs.
     
  12. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    The list continues. Took off the fill plug for the fluid to check the level. The inside of the tank was under pressure. I could hear air escaping when I took the plug off. I didn't expect that to happen. My snoway was an open system and never built pressure like that. Is that normal for fisher's? Or is it possible that the breather is plugged up? Thanks, Nick.
     
  13. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    They build pressure, as designed. About 3 psi according to one very reliable source. By allowing the tank to build a little pressure, it doesn't have to draw air in to the sump when all cylinders are extended and fluid level is lowest. If no air is coming in, no moisture is coming in with it.

    The new DD breathers are Thumbs Up

    Before checking the fluid, put the plow in Vee, with the blade down and the lift cylinder fully compressed. Slowly open the the breather on top, and let the pressure release. Then remove the fill plug. This will prevent you from looking like a Smurf.
     
  14. Mick76

    Mick76 2000 Club Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 2,157

    I looked like a smurf twice before I finally got it!.....lol
     
  15. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    So, the breather on top unscrews? Mine looks pretty f'ed.
     
  16. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Should look like this
    Fisher Breather.jpg

    Fisher Breather.jpg
     
  17. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    My rubber gasket is toast
     
  18. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Just get a new breather, not much money. Toss the old one in the glove box in case you drop the good one in the snow changing a hose at 2 am. And if you hit a curb hard enough to fold the wing back, you'll be changing hoses.
     
  19. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,318

    Got the T-frame rear bolts off. Looks like they have been loose for awhile. Damn. this doesn't look good. what do you think I should do? Middle hole is just gone. Just throw new bolts on and tighten them as best as I can and live with it? Break down the plow and weld in material and then drill out again? Don't want to buy a whole new A-frame. Thanks, Nick.

    Sorry that pics are sideways.

    image.jpg

    image1.jpg
     
  20. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdf/29778.02_091509_for_Web_11x17.pdf

    You need part #43. P/N 29735 Locking Kit. It's easier to see on the interactive parts poster. It's a square piece of steel that fits inside the T-frame channel. The hole is off center, so you rotate it for bottom, middle, or top position. Get the kit, throw the bolts away. Use longer bolts with double nuts and you will be fine.