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engine won't start when its raining

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by cameo89, Feb 27, 2011.

  1. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    Thishas happened to me apx. 6-8 times already, when ever it rains kinda hard out my truck will not start, so ill spray cap and wires with wire dryer or electrical cleaner and a shot of starting fluid and it usually starts, it had a complete tune up less than 2 yrs ago, but my thought is that im getting moisture under the cap or something?

    Anyone ever have this issue when it's raining out?
    Also it dosent do this when it snows, ONLY when it rains hard.

    Thanks, Yon
  2. 32vld

    32vld Senior Member
    from LI, NY
    Messages: 617

    What was done for the complete tune up? How many miles since then? What year truck?
  3. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    1998 Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 5.7L
    Probably 16-18k miles since tune up, but its been doing this for some time now.
  4. clark lawn

    clark lawn PlowSite.com Addict
    from NE ohio
    Messages: 1,233

    replace your cap and rotor, you have a crack somewere. it doesnt go it when it snows cause the air is cold and all the moisture freezes but when it rains it is getting wet.
  5. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    I remember this happened to me many yrs ago, I just wanted to get another opinion before I spend more money. But I have to start somewhere.
  6. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    Definitly dist cap common prob and only get delco.
  7. NBI Lawn

    NBI Lawn PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,797

    This... ;)
  8. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    Ok! Not really sure what's on there now because the tune up was done the weekend before I bought the truck. But will replace cap and rotor with Delco products tomorrow and go from there!
    Thanks guys
  9. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Make sure the vents in the dist base are clear. There are two of them. The original design used screens. If you have screens, pop them out. Later designs used two "half moon" baffles. Just make sure they aren't plugged with debris.
  10. purpleranger519

    purpleranger519 Senior Member
    from Kansas
    Messages: 536

    I have 2 of the exact same truck and both had that problem. I did the cap and rotor, plug wires, ect. I found it to be the fuel pressure regulator. Changed it out truck starts fine. Why that causes the hard starting in wet conditions is beyond me and when I ran across this issue on chevyforums I thought it was hard to believe that would fix it. Although, it did.
  11. 32vld

    32vld Senior Member
    from LI, NY
    Messages: 617

    Cap rotor and wires should be replaced every 50,000 miles/5years. That is the useful life of those parts.

    Useful life means that after that point those parts tend wear enough that the odds are you will have problems from that point out.
  12. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    Yea that is a strang one, im gonna start with cap and rotor and see how that treats me, if not so well then...ill do the fuel regulator, but thanks for your input and knowledge.
  13. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    Ok well I've only used around 30-35% of my cap and wire life.

    NICHOLS LANDSCA PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 4,286

    That doesn't mean it isn't bad. Make sure you get it on just right it's a tight fit and be nice to the little screws
  15. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    I know all about the little screws, I lost one a little while back when I changed the intake gasket and played hell finding a new one!
    but im on my way to parts store now to get a new cap and rotor. It has messed up before and after the gasket change so im thinking maybe its bad! Ill post my results later once I get it changed.
  16. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    Installed new cap and rotor and it started rite up. Thanks for the help guys! :)
  17. 70monte

    70monte Senior Member
    Messages: 468

    I had around 25,000 miles on an Accel cap and rotor set when I had problems with the truck running. It felt like it wasn't running on all cylinders. Pulled the cap and the brass contacts had a lot of corrosion on them. Put in a Delco cap and rotor and it ran great. This was on my 98 K1500 with the 5.7L

  18. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    I replaced my cap and rotor and now it seems slugish, so I stoped by to show a friend what it was doing and I guess its the plugs are fouled out from so many no starts and all the fuel getting dumped into the cylinders, and I was also told that my truck takes a special spark plug that burns hotter than others and they come with a cost of $6 each, and ontop of that my truck has "autolite" plugs which I don't care for, so monday I get to spend another $50.

    I tell ya what I spent more money on truck repairs and maintaining this season than I think I ever have. Im kinda glad its over.
  19. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    Im am so donne with this p.o.s. truck, after a new cap, rotor and now new plugs and $120 later Damn thang caught on fire and still wont start...the reason for the fire was I sprayed the wires with brake clean thinking maybe moisture, but I was told that brake clean wasn't flamable.

    So now I go to bed pi$$ed off and miss out on plowing, and probably our last snow of the season. Uggg
  20. elecblu

    elecblu Member
    Messages: 79

    I know I am a little late to help the OP , but maybe someone else can benefit. Some distributors are plastic and you can strip out or break the housing for the cap screws very easy, if you are not careful.