1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Engine pull

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by KK, Feb 13, 2001.

  1. KK

    KK Member
    Messages: 45

    I am getting ready to pull the 350 engine on an '83 C20 with a manual trans. Is it easier to pull the tranny with the engine or separate the engine from it? How much hassle is it to clear the imput shaft and get it lined up when going back in?
     
  2. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    KK, my opinion would be to pull engine/trans as a unit. There's lots of room on a Chevy pickup to do this, it is a lot easier to line up & install the trans when both are out, unless you have a vehicle hoist and a trans jack.


    1975 GMC C-35
     
  3. Jeff's Classics

    Jeff's Classics Member
    Messages: 39

    I agree with 75, do it as a unit. It also makes cleaning and inspecting the tranny and linkages easier. It's only two bolts holding the tranny mount to the cross member, but don't forget the disconnect the shifter and the driveshaft.
    Jeff
    http://www.jeffsclassics.com
     
  4. gitzenlandscape

    gitzenlandscape Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    I think it depends on if it's 2WD or 4WD. I fit's 4WD I think it might be easier in the truck than trying to manuever engine, tranny, and transfer case out of the engine bay. It will always be easier to line things up out of the truck but it may be more hassle getting everything in and out together.
     
  5. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    Good point you mentioned regarding 4x4 vs 2wd - I was going by the "C20" designation, the C prefix denoting a 2wd truck and a K one indicating 4x4. You're right about the transfer case making it difficult to manouver the whole assembly of engine/trans/Tcase out of the engine bay.


    1975 GMC C-35
     
  6. KK

    KK Member
    Messages: 45

    Yes, its 2wd, and I have a cherry picker and 2 floor jacks. Isn't the 4-spd trans very heavy? If I were to separate the trans, how far forward does the engine have to go to clear the imput shaft, clutch, etc?
     
  7. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    I'm in the "guesswork" mode right now, but I would think about 4 to 6 inches forward to clear the input shaft. It might also be a bit of a headache to line things back up on reassembly. I don't think the 4 speed will be much heavier than a T400, I'm still leaning heavily toward pull engine/trans as a unit.


    1975 GMC C-35
     
  8. beerandcope

    beerandcope Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    i just recently pulled my engine (a 350 form a np203) to change the clutch in it it had to come out about 6 inches to miss the input shaft but other than that it was about a 1/2 hour job.
     
  9. KK

    KK Member
    Messages: 45

    I have some time to think about this because it will be pulled in the driveway (won't fit in the garage) and the weather took another turn for the worse.
     
  10. Sunshine

    Sunshine Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    C20 engine swap

    I just recently got mine going. It takes a big garage for them extra doors. Kind of hard getting used to driving it again too- it had been down for 3 years, everything else on the road looks so small. Everythings great with mine except my mileage went way down, my old engine gave me 13-14 on road trips, made a trip to Denver and back the other day and couldn't even get 10. This engine only has about 5 or 600 miles on it now so maybe the mileage will improve some with age. Glad I had a garage to do my swap in as long as it took. anyway good luck. Mark
     
  11. badtoy76

    badtoy76 Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    tranny weight

    To answer your question about weight, the 4-speed is ALOT lighter than an automatic. Its alot smaller.
     
  12. KK

    KK Member
    Messages: 45

    I'd like to try pulling it this weekend, unless the weather really gets bad. I'll try to pull the engine and trans together. Last weekend, I cut the exhaust pipes and removed the crossmember bolts for the trans.
     
  13. plowjockey

    plowjockey PlowSite.com Sponsor
    Messages: 622

    It is not a bad pull to get it all out together. The four speed is definately lighter than the auto. One thing to remember is that when you pull the engine up and out of the dog house you will create a steep angle for evrything. You need to strap a plastic bag of some sort aroung the output end of the transmission or you will dump grease all over the place. Go to a local trans shop if you know someone there and you night be able to get a cap from a rebuild that will go in the output end of the transmission.

    Bruce
     
  14. KK

    KK Member
    Messages: 45

    Well, I didn't get the engine/trans pulled this weekend, but I am very close. Got the wiring, starter,motor mount pin,trans crossmember, accellerator linkage, brake vacuum tube, power steering pump, A/C unit, exhaust, clutch linkage, ALL SEPARATED. There is some wiring connected to the trans, and also I'll probably have to drain the oil in it before the yank. Hopefully later this week.
     
  15. KK

    KK Member
    Messages: 45

    I ended up pulling the engine and trans together. Thanks for all your advice. Got it put back together and running last weekend. It started right up for the breakin with no problems. The new engine definately has more power. The job turned out very nice amd its like having a new vehicle now.
     
  16. plowjockey

    plowjockey PlowSite.com Sponsor
    Messages: 622

    Glad that everything went well just don't forget that your first oil change should be at about 500 miles to get the break in oil out of it.
    Good luck with everything.

    Bruce
     
  17. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    KK - good news then! Always a good feeling when it comes back to life "after the operation", isn't it?

    Bruce is right on the early oil change, only other thing to keep in mind is to drive it fairly gently for those first 500 miles or so. Also try to operate the engine over a range of speeds/conditions during the break in period - combine some in-town with highway driving.
     
  18. KK

    KK Member
    Messages: 45

    Thanks guys, I already changed the oil right after the 30 min breakin. I'm going to change it again at around 400 mi. It seems to be running very good, so I'm happy.
     
  19. plowjockey

    plowjockey PlowSite.com Sponsor
    Messages: 622

    You just have to love it when a plan comes together.

    Bruce