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Electrical Problems?

Discussion in 'Jeeps' started by moonpear, Jan 27, 2009.

  1. moonpear

    moonpear Junior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 6

    The battery drains dead after an hour of plowing. When I have the radio on, the speakers pop off then back on, when the I move the blade. I added a 2-0 ground cable from battery to block, and I replaced the alternator, but it did NOT help. plow checks out good, too. Anyone with suggestions?

    Stats:

    2007 wrangler unlimited X 4Dr,
    Suburbanite/Homesteader Plow (same thing) with hard wired controller.

    If anyone has same, let me know what FUSE# your controller is wired to?????

    Thanks for any help!!!
     
  2. ppandr

    ppandr Senior Member
    Messages: 619

    What kind of battery do you have? If its stock/Walmart/Napa crap then I would start there. Nothing less than an orbital or dual battery system. A crap battery will burn down in no time, as well as turn radio on/off. Where is your pump grounded to?
     
  3. moonpear

    moonpear Junior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 6

    It's the original stock battery from Jeep. I'll look for the pump ground. Where's the best spot?

    No room under hood for dual setup. What is an orbital???
     
  4. ppandr

    ppandr Senior Member
    Messages: 619

  5. moonpear

    moonpear Junior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 6

    Thanks for the help. I will replace battery with orbital and see if this helps. Yes, pump is to battery neg.

    I'd like to get a consensus from as many as possible regarding FUSE #.

    Everyone: What FUSE # do you have your wired Controller connected to???

    Thanks all for answering!
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2009
  6. cjshloman

    cjshloman Senior Member
    Messages: 101

    Get a red top or yellow top optima battery, they rock.
     
  7. '76cj5

    '76cj5 Member
    Messages: 78

    Put a voltmeter on your battery and see what voltage your putting out.

    I've used Diehards for years without any problem as long as I had a good alternator. But duals are the best way to go. Can you stack the bateries?

    It shouldnt matter what fuse you use as far as your draing the battery problem goes. What fuse are you hooked to now?
     
  8. JeepTJ

    JeepTJ Senior Member
    Messages: 225


    What does your owners/users manual require?

    Fran
     
  9. Bronco1

    Bronco1 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Have you come up with any answers? I have a similar problem with charging. Have a 900 amp battery, #4 cables to everything except the two wire clip to alternater ( believe that's the voltage regulator) and put an 120 amp alternator on and it still discharges each time I use the lift or angle switches(E-47 with toggle switches) The battery discharged totally last night here in Porter County with the lake effect we had while pushing 2-3 ft drifts. Amp gauge showed low charge and pump would'nt lift and only angled to the left with either the angle switch or lift switch. Charged it overnight and it works fine again but still discharges. I put a new motor on last week and that has'nt helped at all. The pump turns freely and it 's full with fluid. It discharged with the stock alt. that's why I changed it out, but did'nt help. It's grounded to the battery and connections are clean. Anything you find out I'll try it. thanks!
     
  10. moonpear

    moonpear Junior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 6

    No luck yet.

    I just replaced stock battery with a fancy dual function (cycle+starting) orbital type and it did NOT help at all. Everytime I operate the blade, the radio pops off. I have not had to plow for more than an hour since, so I'm not sure if the battery drain is fixed.

    My controller is hooked up to fuse M10. This is the entertainment system fuse and may be why the speakers pop off when using the controller. I will try connecting to M13 next.

    Anyone with a 2007/8/9 wrangler unlimited 4dr, please let me know what fuse # your controller is hooked into??????????? That may help fit another piece to the puzzle...
     
  11. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,551

    The battery stores electricity the alternator supply's electricity. You have a bad alternator or a slipping belt.
    If check the wire from the alternator to the battery, although if that was bad I'd expect it would have burnt up by now.-

    plows draw ~200 amps, so your alternator needs to re charge the battery between each time you control the plow. Plus the alternator supply's current for the heater fan 20A, lights 16A, rear defroster 20A stereo 3A wipers 6A.....
     
  12. Bronco1

    Bronco1 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    I had the alternator rechecked and it's fine so I went back thru everything and I had replaced alot of stock wiring with #4 cable. The wires going from the battery to alt are #4 and starter relay to alt are heavy wire (stock) maybe #8 or 10. The #8 has a brass connector and the #4 is a steel connector. I reversed them and put the brass closest to the alt, then the steel on the #4 wire then the nut. Works great. I cycle the plow up/down, left/right and the amp meter goes down till I release the lever and it goes right back up to like 13. I have the power cord going to a free space on the fuse block with a 20 amp fuse in the inline fuse holder. I moved 24" of snow in my drive which took 3 hours (big drive) plus others around here, so figure 4 1/2 hrs and she's working fine now. I remember from the past that steel connectors build a resistance and will hold power back so when it warms up Sunday I'll replace all the connectors with brass or copper, nuts also. I sure hope this will help.
     
  13. Bronco1

    Bronco1 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Another thing, The free space on the fuse block is power with key on only plus make sure your plow relay is grounded real good to the frame or fender well. Scrape the paint away if needed so the base has good contact.
     
  14. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,551

    ?????
    Steel does not "build up resistance" it will corrode at the wire- connector joints.
     
  15. unit28

    unit28 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,532

    agree? check and replace any connections that are suspect of corrosion.
    half of the problem is having a good ground at all points. If not, it will cause a closed loop to fall short of it's full supply. The circut must be void of nicks, breaks, and corrosion.
    The alternator is going to be your supplier to your battery. As plowmiester said, sliping belt. Also check for the belt cracking usually on the sides, and check for any deteriating such as glazing and missing chunks.
    I just replaced my belt {after it was squeeling like a stuck pig} and the gauge magically rose back to 14. It only did that when it got down to -20. Also check belts for proper tension.
     
  16. Bronco1

    Bronco1 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    MP, try it, it worked for me. My belts were new and tight, wires were new or previously cleaned and all I did is swap them around. GM and Ford did the copper or brass nut thing in the 70's on some bigger engines, when they got hot they would'nt start again until cool or hot wiring after starter. If it does'nt work it's one thing that's eliminated. Keep us informed, could help someone down the road.
     
  17. moonpear

    moonpear Junior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 6

    Yes, all connections are very clean with e-greese. Copper to battery terminal, and steel to steel terminals. It hasn't snowed much since, so I still haven't tested it past an hour.

    Also, I was mistaken about Fuse #. The controller is actually connected to M15. I just changed it to M2. The plow is off now, so not sure if this corrected the radio speaker popping off problem.

    If anyone has a 2007+ jeep wrangler with a hard wired plow controller. What Fuse # are you connected to?????? How about those with a winch? Does your radio pop off when moving blade???

    Appreciate your responses...
     
  18. chris15010

    chris15010 Junior Member
    Messages: 26

    I have a 2008 JK wrangler and the only place to safely tap ignition switched power from on these vehicles is the wire coming from behind the cigarette lighter port ( the port on the left not the right) i have been told this by dealers and a reputable jeep forum people have had success if they got lucky and have a jeep with the port that is hot for the heated seats, mine was not. With the multiplexed wiring on these the vehicle's computer doesn't like something in a circuit that should not be there so that is what is killing your radio you are drawing too much power away from the radio I'm surprised you didn't blow a fuse or melt the wiring i have tapped my power for my suburbanite there and my aftermarket lights and have had zero problems make sure you use an inline fuse. Pull the dash panel off tap the hot lead run a length of wire from that panel behind the steering column to the panel on the left of the dash it pops off just watch the clips. There you have access to a hole in the firewall (after you poke out the foam insulation) that you can snake your wires threw hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2009
  19. moonpear

    moonpear Junior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 6

    Details Please

    Hello,

    I still have the same problem, and I noticed your new post. So, that worth a try, but I'd like every little detail you can provide before I rip into this. Please try to provide a detailed list of exactly what to do in order to tap the controller into this left driver side outlet. If this works, it's be GREAT!!!

    Happy holidays!
     
  20. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,551

    Replacing parts Willy nilly may eventual fix the problem or not, but it is expensive. Where you tap power for the controller wont matter (unless you tap off the Field wire of the alternator)
    clearly you are using more power than the alternator can supply. I have a plow jeep that has the stock 118 amp alt and have no issues. On the TJ, jeep put a connector inside the wire harness between the alternator and battery . I run a 4 gage wire direct from the alt to the battery.

    Let me ask sum stupid questions
    1) is the pump running all the time. or only when you give a command to lift or turn the plow? does the plow motor stay running after you stop giving a command?
    2) do you have a voltmeter in the dash. If yes, with a fully charged battery give the up command for 6 seconds and watch the volt meter. What does it do?

    with a volt meter measure the voltage from the output stud on the alternator and ground. Now do it with someone working the plow. Now do it at the battery, and again while working the plow. what do you get for voltages

    Measure the voltage on the wire from the alternator to battery. and with the plow lifting. (Put one probe on the alternator output stud and one probe on the positive battery)

    DANGER dont be any ware near the plow when it is working it can crush you.