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E60H - very slow

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by GMC21, Jan 16, 2007.

  1. GMC21

    GMC21 Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    I just got everything all hooked up on my old truck and it all seems to be working okay, other than it seems quite slow. I did just change all the fluid (pump, lines, rams) and fill with the Meyers M1 stuff. I am wondering if it being slow is because I don't have a large enough battery in the truck. I plowed my driveway this morning for about 30-45 minutes and it seemed to be getting slower and slower. Thanks!
     
  2. Whip

    Whip Member
    Messages: 87

    What is the rating of the battery, age of battery, connections look like? What is size and age of alternator? Have any of these ever been replaced? These are things to be looking at to start.
     
  3. GMC21

    GMC21 Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    Thanks for the pointers

    Thanks for responding Whip - folks like you who know what they are doing and willing to help others is what makes this site a great resource.

    I checked out the battery which is about 1.5 years old and it is a 650 (CCA) and 525 (CA). I am picking up a larger one on my way home tonight. I considered getting two batteries, but did not really want to spend that much on a yard truck unless I have to. If this new one does not do the trick, I will get another one. I am not sure about the alternator. I picked this truck up two years ago and don't know the history. For what it is worth, the alternator looks fairly new, but I have no idea what size it is.
     
  4. Whip

    Whip Member
    Messages: 87

    Thanks for the compliment. I enjoy helping people out.
    For plowing applications, that battery should get you by if it's only 1 1/2 years old. I would check the charging system before doing anything. If the charging system isn't working, it can damage the battery. Make sure the system is working properly instead of just throwing money at it.
    If the system checks out and you can fit it in, try to get a 1000 cca battery that will end up having about 900-950 reserve amps. This is what I have always done and it works well.
     
  5. lawnmedic

    lawnmedic Senior Member
    Messages: 703

    I would start by checking all electrical connections. If the motor is a 1 terminal then remove it from the pump base and clean both the end of the motor and the pump assembly where the 2 connect. This spot is a common cause of poor pump speed...
     
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You mentioned that you flushed the system out and replaced the fluid but did you clean the filter's too? Just checking.
     
  7. AFM Contracting

    AFM Contracting Member
    Messages: 92

    Whats the best way to flush and change fluid in the angle rams?
     
  8. lawnmedic

    lawnmedic Senior Member
    Messages: 703

    With the plow mounted on truck raise plow and block under a-frame. Remove quick connects and place hoses into a container. Manually angle plow back and forth until all fluid is out. Place ends of hoses into a container of naphtha and manually angle plow back and forth until no more debris comes out of hose.(I start with used filtered naphtha and finished with new clean naphtha.) Make sure all naphtha is out of rams and hoses. reconnect to system, and operate pump to refill rams.(checking plow fluid often).
     
  9. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Buy the biggest battery that will fit the tray. Run the lest amount of lights you can. Your pump motor may be getting tired and pulling too many amps.
    See my re-posted primer below.

    The big box auto part stores (and most others) will test the system and battery for free. If you have a battery charger put it on the battery and make sure it's fully charged before going.Have them look up your truck for alternator ratings. If it's not plow prepped it may have just a 60 amp in it. Alternator only put out 1/3 of it's rating at idle / plow speeds.
    If you have a volt ohm meter - your battery should be 12.6 volts not running.
    When running it should be 13.5 -- 14.5 volts. The dash volt gage is just too vague to rely on for this. Check all you connections and cables before you start replacing parts. They may not look dirty until you take them apart.Clean them with wire brush and put dielectric grease on them to protect and preserve the connection. Clean all your BLACK ground wires that connect to the battery , engine , fenders and core support. Bad grounds can cause multiple problems with the engine and charging system.Unplug the alternator and look at the contacts in the plug,they burn up all the time.
    Check your serpentine belt's wear gage. You may just need a belt. If you don't have a repair manual, the library has them somewhere in the county system.
    __________________
     
  10. Whip

    Whip Member
    Messages: 87

    Another item we didn't mention was to make sure your pump mounting bolts are loose and the pump can actually be moved in the mount a little. I see a few guys tighten the bolts down to eliminate the pump rattle while driving down the road (even showed a guy this was one of his problems and he insisted they should be tight) and this pinches the pivoting action needed for the pump-even though it's not that much but critical.