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E60 problem

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by CleveGarageDoor, Jan 4, 2014.

  1. CleveGarageDoor

    CleveGarageDoor Junior Member
    Messages: 9

    Hi, I'm trying to get prepared for the cold and snow expected to hit the Cleveland, Ohio area in a couple days, so since my original E60 (that performed flawlessly for 11 years) was having bad leak-down drop after 11 years I decided to put a BRAND NEW E60 "Quick Lift" on as a replacement. The replacement was pretty much the same except for the new one having 2 terminals on the motor.

    I filled it with Meyers only fluid, cleaned and connected the battery wire to terminal 2, cleaned and connected the ground to terminal 1 (nearest to the vehicle) and it works BUT VERY SLOW UP. The drop seems normal, and the angle seems normal. Occasionally the touchpad seems to lag (when I go from lift then quickly to angle, it still lifts from the angle button).


    Made sure I have fluid up to 1-1/2" below the filler top.
    Cleaned and secured the ground.
    Put a jumper cable from terminal 1 to the battery negative in case the wire was bad (still slow).
    Checked both the rear and front filters in case the steering rams clogged them (clean).
    Getting 160 amps upon lift at the positive terminal.
    There was what appears to be a plastic square that was loose with the black wire coming out of it in front of the "B" and "C" coils (what is that?) It gets warm and I snugged it to be safe.

    Wrapup: My new E60 is very slow to lift (approx. 7 seconds from ground to top), definitely not a quick lifting unit.

    Tried the internet for hours and found alot on the Drop Speed Bolt but nothing on the lift speed.

    Thank you in advance!
     
  2. CleveGarageDoor

    CleveGarageDoor Junior Member
    Messages: 9

    Just thought I'd try one more time. Bump...
     
  3. leolkfrm

    leolkfrm PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,403

    might just need some break-in?
     
  4. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,607

    Really need to do a pressure test. Also I recommend getting the proper cable with two grounds on it. One goes to the motor and other goes to pump housing.
     
  5. CleveGarageDoor

    CleveGarageDoor Junior Member
    Messages: 9

    Thanks for your replies. As it turns out, the local Meyer Snow Plow factory said even though it's a new unit, because it was on the shelf for over a year I'm outa luck because it sounds like a bad motor. Shame on them.

    He said that the old motor can be swapped out to fix the issue, so when I went to put the old motor on the new pump it wasn't even close (old motor female drive shaft, new motor male drive shaft).

    So... I get mad, clean the motor-to-pump connection, and put the new motor back on the new pump and it now works fast... Very likely because there was too much paint between the motor and pump housing causing a bad ground. Which would never have happened before because the old single terminal unit grounded to the pump housing.

    What was learned here? Even though the new one gives the ground directly to the motor, it's no guarantee that it will ground good if the motor-to-pump connection is a weak ground.

    As suggested in a reply here: GOOD ground, and GOOD positive are important.

    Thanks again, took 3 days and an inexperienced person (myself) to figure out what the "pros" couldn't.