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E60 gremlins and e60 vs e60h mounting in classic ez mount

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by Sledpuller585, Jan 31, 2015.

  1. Sledpuller585

    Sledpuller585 Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    Hi all, I am at a cross roads of a delimma as of lately. I have two pumps and a classic ezoint set up with an ST7.5 poly blade. The other night I went out to hook my blade up and find that my back up pump will not hold the blade up. Replaced the up ram packing and it seems to be fine. I'm skeptical after having both pumps go down on the last push. My primary pump will not angle right. It tries, then acts like it's slamming against something so it stops. After a new c valve, c coil, hoses and couplers, fluid flush and clean, strainer clean and still have the same problem when angling right. All other functions are normal and consistent. F
    Changing to another pump showed me that it is not a moldboard ram issue. So here we are at square 1...what else could I possibly try to get it to angle right?

    On the other hand, I really don't want to keep fighting gremlins all the time when I need my equipment most so I am contemplating buying a rebuilt e60 and have the option of a high lift for the same money. Thinking ahead with the new style mounts I would like to have an h model so I can run this pump for years to come even after I switch mount set ups for a new truck. But for now, will a high lift physically fit in the classic ez mount without hitting the top cap on the tube mount itself? If not, would it be hurt anything to tilt the pump out away from the front of the truck and bolt the ram into the hole closest to the moldboard in the lift arm?? I realize if it lifts to high I have enough chain to slack it out some and be ok. Thanks in advance!!
     
  2. racer47

    racer47 Senior Member
    Messages: 324

    replace crossover valve. stick with e 60 for that mount ,or you will end up with a bent ram .if you do go e 60 h you will need to buy new lift arm or drill new hole ,closer to chain .I think its 1 9/16 from center to center of hole .
     
  3. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,641

    Check the pilot check valve and ball. Make sure it is moving freely.
     
  4. Sledpuller585

    Sledpuller585 Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    Thank you for the replies. I received an email around noon from Chuck at Smith Brothers telling me to check the pilot check valve and ball or the crossover valve.
    He also mentioned that I could use a high lift pump as long as I drilled a new hole farther put per the meyer service bulletin attached to his email. I'm just hoping that if I do so it wouldn't affect pump operation with the pump laying so far forward. I wouldn't see how but I've been wrong before....I'd rather buy the high lift now as in a couple seasons I see myself with a different pick up and a newer style mount and do not want to have to fight pumps again. Thanks
     
  5. tjctransport

    tjctransport PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,390

    that is a lot of pump for a 7.5 foot poly plow.
    an E-47 is more than enough pump for that small poly plow.
     
  6. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,641

    You do realize the only difference between e60h and e60 is tank and lift tube/ram? So both of your current e60s can be easily converted to H's.

    Quick test for crossover would be to raise the blade and then see if you can angle the blade by hand. If you can the crossover is shot. If not the crossover should be fine.
     
  7. Sledpuller585

    Sledpuller585 Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    My know an e47 is enough to get the job done but I like the speed of an e60. I've had one for a few years now and don't see myself going back. I also run wings on my plow and 95% of the time they are on.

    Kimber, from what I have gathered I thought that was the only difference. But haven't had one apart to really see. As much as I read about ram upgrades and sizes, I didn't know if there would be a difference diameter wise between an H and a standard 60.
    With the blade picked up and hooked to the pump I can not make it go side to side. So that would tell me to look at the pilot relief valve, correct?

    Also with both of these pumps having the old style (npt ports both in the top) PA block, what would the difference be from a new style block??
     
  8. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,641

    Difference in lift tube doesn't matter since the smaller tube just uses a spacer ring to make it work with the cap. Only real difference in PA blocks is the location of some items and type of fittings. This is until you get into the newer style valves. Yes I would start with pilot check if you can't move the blade by hand. You can also swap angle hoses to make sure you are not having a binding issue on the plow itself. But unlikely since you said it went right with your other pump. Only other thing I can think of is make sure you have magnetism at C coil, green wire, when pressing right.
     
  9. Sledpuller585

    Sledpuller585 Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    Thanks for the info. Maybe I will back up and regroup to save some money. I appreciate the insight and information you have given me!
    I did try a new c valve and coil that hadn't been used right off the bat and didn't have any luck with that. I will post my findings in the next couple days. We have a good sized storm getting ready to rip across central Ohio, supposably.
     
  10. racer47

    racer47 Senior Member
    Messages: 324

    take kimber750 advise ,with the pilot check valve and ball .I don't no what I was thinking saying cross over valve .
     
  11. Sledpuller585

    Sledpuller585 Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    So if a guy was to buy a reman pump would it matter which angle block he went after?? Is the newer with a side outlet any better or faster than the old style?? I have a friend looking to buy and can not decide