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E47 not angling

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by Northman, Nov 1, 2009.

  1. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    Help me troubleshoot my E47 please. Not angling, stuck left.

    I just put the plow on today from behind the barn after sitting since end of winter. It lifted OK and I pulled it around the front to remove it. So before I did I went up, down, up, left and stuck at left side. Would not angle right. I can hear the motor turning, has a new electric motor I installed last winter.
    Checked all connections and pulled the hydraulic lines and facing the front the right line had alot of pressure and the left was usual and reinstalled. The right line I had to release pressure by pushing in the check valve to be able to reconnect it. Still nothing.

    Please tell me what I need to start checking.

    Thanks for any help. Just getting ready for winter.
     
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Start with checking the C coil for magnetism while a helper tries to angle it to the right. If it has it then next suspect would be a bad quick coupler.

    Follow the troubleshooting manual to continue on. Page 28 will get you started. http://ww2.meyerproducts.com/upload/forms/1-562 R16.pdf
     
  3. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    C has magnetism when toggle right.

    B and A nothing is this correct?

    1 line stays stiff per trouble shooting manual. Have to release pressure off hose to reconnect with quick coupler.
     
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    A and B are for lower and raise, doesn't apply to angling so you're fine there.

    Good you hvae mag on the C coil. Next pull the C valve out and check it for correct operation visually. If it's ok then replace all quick couplers.
     
  5. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    What would I be looking for visually for correct operation? I am clueless what I will be looking at once I remove it. Except for the pic in the service manual.
     
  6. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    You are looking for the coil to become magnetic when energized. The stem should move freely in the valve. The coil should come off the valve easily, the valve should be straight.
     
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    To go into a little more depth....

    Once you pull the C valve out re-install the coil into it. Take a ground jumper and a fused 12V jumper and hotwire the coil. While doing so look into the end of the valve. When you apply power you should visibly be able to see the small spool inside the end of the valve move. Doesn't move much so you have to look close and you should also be able to feel it too if you're holding the valve/coil assembly in your hand.
     
  8. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    Tried removing the C solenoid. First off the nut on top just twisted off with the slightest pressure from a small 7/16 wrench. So C solenoid will have to be replaced anyways.

    I can not for the life of me get anything to work on the C solenoid to remove it. No sockets that will go over it and no wrenches will fit between all the fittings. What size is it to begin with and what special socket does it take to remove this C solenoid? What do you guys use to remove or break it loose?

    Where's the best prices on a C solenoid and special socket?
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Twisting the stud/nut off is quite common especially on an old unit, which it sounds like yours is.

    There's two types of C valves, does yours have a six sided hex on the bottom where it looks like it would take a very large deep well socket? Or is it the very old style where there's a steel ring around the bottom perimeter with what looks like two internal "slots" inboard of said ring?
     
  10. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    A standard 1 1/4" chrome socket will fit the newer valves, you have to take a die grinder to it for the older valves B&B describes. It really does not matter at this point as the valve is trash so just use a pipe wrench, vice grips or similar method to remove it. Welding a nut on the end of the stem works well also.
     
  11. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    I took out my calibers and measured the 6 sided hex on the bottom. It showed just a hair under 32mm. So I got the bright idea of using a 32mm or 33mm long socket for a front wheel drive hub nut removal. Bingo, worked like a charm. Forgot to remove lines from angle cylinders so got fluid everywhere, so put back in to stop fluid flow.

    Anyhow C solenoid had the top 2 O-ring and rubber gasket split apart. So I take it this is the problem?

    I got all of the fluid out of the C socket area and removed the pieces of the O-ring and gasket that was in the bottom and stuck on the sides also.

    ((((The stem should move freely in the valve. )))) Also I couldn't find anything on the solenoid that would move freely, what and where was I suppose to see stem move freely?

    Going to TSC to see if they have their snow plow supplies in tomorrow. If not in stock yet, where is the best place on the web to get the C solenoid?

    Thanks for all your help and bear with me as I learn from you. :salute:
     
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You're doing fine so far. :drinkup:

    If the seals on the valve are damaged then that could certainly cause issues.

    Where you want to look is in the end of the valve. You'll see a depression in the bottom. If you place a small screwdriver in there and press you should feel the internal spool move, as thats what your pressing against, the spool that is moved by the magnetism created by the coil. So that is what you're looking for to move when powering the coil. Like I mentioned it doesn't move much but it should move.

    If you have no luck at TSC the best places to purchase a valve online would be CPW or ESI. Both are sponsors here and their banners can be found at the top of the page.
     
  13. chrissheerman

    chrissheerman Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    northman my meyer plow is only 2 seasons old and its done that both seasons after sitting the summer I just go down the road with the blade down and hit a few pot holes with it while trying to angle the blade it's fixxed mine two starting seasons so far just did it 2 nights ago because both sides were stuck. Took about 200 yards of road with pot holes giving the blade a shock and trying to angle at same time but it came into it then I just raised the blade and kept going back and forth with it. did the same last season worked fine all season I think there are valves in it that stick at least it seems that way. Good luck
     
  14. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    Tried 2 different TSC 20 miles apart and they didn't have the C solenoid assembly.
    So I called the local Meyer dealer $174 :eek: for C coil and valve assembly. Man they think their parts are made of gold.
    Just like last year they priced me a 3" electric motor for 20 off list for $189, reg price $229.

    So I ordered everything online. Complete C solenoid assembly shipped to my door for $86.
    Just like last year new motor was $57 to my door.

    I try and support my local dealers but I refuse to be taken advantage of with double and triple the payup price.

    Will let you know if this was the problem when all is done.
     
  15. fernalddude

    fernalddude PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,105

    North B&B has got you on the correct path dont beat the plow to death to short fix the problem.Sorry chrissheerman but that type fix will only destroy your power unit, simple mait can solve this, orings can be found for a few bucks.Some spare parts are great to have on the shelve in the winter for breakdowns.
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2009
  16. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201


    That is the plan for the old c unit and set it back for spare.

    Now my question is on the C unit rebuild seal kit. Where do the 2 white nylon-lite type washers go? I dont see them on the old one anywhere.
    Where do I look for the old ones? Are they still in the valve unit the C valve goes into?

    Copy of csealkit.jpg
     
  17. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Not all valves used the plastic rings, just depends on the age. Yours may not. Only replace what is there and one at a time, matching up the old with the new as you go. You'll have rings left over when you're done as you have a universal kit there.
     
  18. Bashby

    Bashby Senior Member
    Messages: 228

    Mine has stuck a few times, the seals get stuck to the ram in the cylinders. I lube up the exposed part of the ram with whatever I can find then push on the blade to help un-stick it while someone hits the switch. If you dont have a helper put the blade up against a curb or tree or something to help angle it while you hit the switch. After you get it moving and the seals lubed up it will work fine (if thats whats going on with yours) I'v had to do the same thing on Boss plows also.
     
  19. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    love the graphics on the old meyer ring kit.
     
  20. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    Has anyone ever drilled and tapped the top of the C valve so you could put a short bolt in the top to hold the C coil on? If so how far deep were you able to drill into old stud?
    Just what I was figuring for a fix for the twisted off stud on the valve instead of a weld. To be used for back up in a emergency situation if it works when I am done with everything.