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E47 I suspect Crossover-now what

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by eriklane, Feb 4, 2014.

  1. eriklane

    eriklane Member
    Messages: 75

    Worked fine all winter, goes up and down fine, but it's stuck left. When I hit the angle switch, the motor runs but sounds like it's limited out. Full fluid, clean, how do I go about checking and adjusting the crossover. I rebuilt it this fall. I have a pressure gauge but don't have the proper connecting plumbing to even use it. The crossover is on the driver side, correct? I have it fully screwed in. I have had leaking issues out of the B even after reefing them tight.
    Not sure what to do next.
     
  2. fordsuvparts

    fordsuvparts Senior Member
    Messages: 135

  3. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,691

    C valve/solenoid. One with green wire. Check for magnetism and power.
     
  4. jasonv

    jasonv PlowSite.com Addict
    from kannada
    Messages: 1,114

    ^^^ that.
    Definitely not the crossover valve.
     
  5. eriklane

    eriklane Member
    Messages: 75

    Took apart the filter on the right side facing the unit, clean. Took the other one, below the drain and a lot of pressure was in there. clean.

    Crossover is tightened all the way in, was that way when I got it. Dry. Makes me think this crossover, despite me putting all new seals in it, is not functioning. What should I do?

    How do I test for magnetism without someone to help out?
     
  6. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,691

    Jumper wire from battery + to green wire.
     
  7. eriklane

    eriklane Member
    Messages: 75

    Thought some more 10 mins after I posted that and realized the same...just went out there and the solenoid in back is very strong, the one in front, clicks, but more faint.

    Flowchart indicates to check the crossover relief. Makes sense. Dangit. I don't plow much, so I can use it as-is, don't really want to tear into it in winter. But the dry crossover tells me something's up in there. Wondering also if I should back it way off or is it too late with the leaking I'm having, it's pressurized and leaking out all over.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014
  8. CARDOCTOR

    CARDOCTOR PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,310

    had a similar problem. the fittings on the hose were bad.
     
  9. eriklane

    eriklane Member
    Messages: 75

    I don't have expertise in crossovers, but did follow the youtube instruction to take it apart, put in new seals, and put it back together. I see no oil in the xover and wonder if it's just too high pressure? How far should I back it out in the hopes of relieving some pressure, or, if it's just froze up or stuck, it'll never bleed out, right? In that case, I'll have to take it apart again and find out why it's not releasing pressure. But would this keep it from allowing the plow to go right? I have magnetism on the B&C solenoids, clean fluid and filters. I have 2 new couplers last year.
     
  10. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,691

    The crossover will not keep the plow from going right. You need to replace the C valve.
     
  11. jasonv

    jasonv PlowSite.com Addict
    from kannada
    Messages: 1,114

    Solenoids don't make sounds. Valves make sounds. The solenoid is the electromagnet that RUNS the valve.

    Now there are a total of three valves and solenoids on a meyer E47 pump. Two of the solenoids are the same as each other, but ALL THREE VALVES are DIFFERENT. Just because it *sounds* different, does not mean that it is not working.

    This is what I would do to test;
    Disconnect the wire running to the C-solenoid, and use a voltmeter or 12 volt test light on the wire (truck side) and against a known 0v reference -- i.e., the truck's chassis, the body of the plow pump, etc. Now push the switch to the RIGHT and see if that wire gives you power (12-15 volts, or lights up). If it *does*, then you need to focus on the pump. If it *does not*, then you need to focus on the wiring and switches.

    If it *does* give you power, then try swapping the solenoids on the valves, and try again. This will tell you if the problem is the solenoid or the valve.

    If it *does not* give you power, then hook the solenoid directly up to the + terminal on the battery, AND THEN try angling (left or right, doesn't matter -- wired like this, they will both be "right"). If this still does not work, then you're dealing with multiple problems.

    Note that there is one additional possibility for this problem that you could be experiencing... the plow itself being stuck. Disconnect the couplers on the hoses and hook the plow cylinders up to each other. You should be able to angle the plow back and forth by hand. If you can't, then the plow could be stuck or damaged and indicates that your angle valve may be working correctly. If it takes too much pressure to angle, then the high pressure relief valve (on the pump base directly below the motor) will release before the plow moves.



    Edit... one other thing: Really really easy way to test the crossover relief valve; lift up the plow and try moving the plow side to side by hand (with hoses hooked up normally). If it moves by hand through the full stroke (and you are able to feel the fluid moving through the system), then the crossover relief valve is shot. If it won't budge, or it feels like you're pushing against a spring (air pressure), then the crossover relief valve is fine.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
  12. jasonv

    jasonv PlowSite.com Addict
    from kannada
    Messages: 1,114

    Actually, it *could*, it is just extremely unlikely. If the crossover valve is shot (open), then the pump will dump into (and release) both sides. The plow won't go anywhere. BUT, OP mentions that it sounds like the pump is straining against the left stop. With a bad crossover relief valve, fluid from the pump will short circuit through the crossover valve and back into the reservoir, so it won't strain at all.
     
  13. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,691

    As I said, crossover is not his problem. He would also be able to move the plow by hand if crossover was blown out and pump would free spin. The more he takes it apart, the more likely it will not get put back together correctly. OP just seems determined to repair the pump without having to purchase any parts.
     
  14. jasonv

    jasonv PlowSite.com Addict
    from kannada
    Messages: 1,114

    He may not need to buy any parts. The only thing we know, is that the valve is not working. The reason for that is entirely unknown. You suggested hooking a wire from the battery to the c-solenoid... I think he did that, but did NOT try running the motor while it was hooked up like that.
     
  15. JeepCoMJ

    JeepCoMJ Senior Member
    Messages: 284

    So, have the quick connects been replaced with a matching set yet? Number one failure in angling.

    Also, valves are valves. Coils are coils. The solenoid is the assembly of coils no valve....a coil is NOT a solenoid.
     
  16. jasonv

    jasonv PlowSite.com Addict
    from kannada
    Messages: 1,114

    How many times does this need to be repeated?
     
  17. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,691

    I will stick with C for one main reason. OP claims crossover is cranked down. One hard hit will swell/destroy the C.

    And I will call solenoid, coil or valve what ever I want. Way too many grammar nazis around here anymore. Soon we will have the really/solenoid argument going on here.
     
  18. jasonv

    jasonv PlowSite.com Addict
    from kannada
    Messages: 1,114

    Good point!
     
  19. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    First purchase a new one piece crossover relief valve.

    then either

    Take it to an experanced professional with the proper tools.

    Purchase and learn how to use proper tools and set proper pump and crossover relief pressures.



    If not you are on a treadmill of replacing "c" valves.
     
  20. eriklane

    eriklane Member
    Messages: 75

    So, determined to fix this frikker. Took the C coil and valve out. Nice and clean inside, fluid all clean. Noticed that I'd gotten yellow spray paint on the valve body that's inside the coil. Thought to self, probably outta have a nice bright shiny valve, instead of a somewhat shiny one, so, sanded slightly, and, sanded the top post base also. Put the valve in the coil and touch it to the batter, nice click-valve is moving definitely.

    Put it back together, backed out the crossover a touch. Hit the right control, bam. Moves.

    I'm the amateur. I admit that. So, was it the paint that inhibited a good coil action on the valve? Or just dumb luck? Or the xover adjustment?

    'Don't judge me' my daughter says...