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E-60H help

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by cmo18, Sep 22, 2010.

  1. cmo18

    cmo18 Senior Member
    Messages: 815

    Hey guys, hope you all had a good summer!

    Hooked up the plow tonight to move it for painting and the plow wouldn't go up or side to side. On the controller pad the bad connection light was not lit. I noticed the first time I pressed the up button the lift ram moved up until the chain was tight and hasn't moved again.

    I replaced the lift ram seal end of last winter and I noticed the last storm of last season the plow was very slow. It has fresh fluid from when I changed the seal and I can hear the solenoid activating, is it the pump or the motor? Or are they one unit?

    Also could I get the test procedure?

    Thanks Chris
     
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    So the under hood solenoid clicks and you have power at the motor but the motor doesn't run...correct Chris?

    If that's the case, use a set of jumper cables and hotwire the motor directly to the battery terminals for a few seconds using both the power and grounds of the jumper cables. If it still won't run then the motors shot. Corroded internally usually. Happens often on the E60's during inactivity.

    If it does run while hotwired then you have a poor connection on either the power or just as importantly the ground cables between the motor and battery. Need to go over every connection checking for tightness and corrosion.

    Third possibility is a weak under hood solenoid. To test it simply use one of the leads of your jumper cables to jump across the two larger studs, if the motor runs then the solenoid is bad.
     
  3. cmo18

    cmo18 Senior Member
    Messages: 815

    Yes the motor worked for 1 second to take the slack out of the chain then nothing. Is the pump in the motor?

    If it is the motor, what brand of motor would you recommend? On eBay their is some for 100$ but I know their is more expensive ones out there.

    When I jump the motor, should I try using the controller pad to move the plow?

    I appreciate your help b&b. You know your Meyers!
    Chris
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2010
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The gear pump is in the sump base and is completely separate from the motor. So it can be replaced (if necessary) without having to touch the gear pump. Check the E60 manual I sent you last season, it may not make you a Meyer expert but it will familiarize you with the layout and operation. There's a good troubleshoot section in there too...which is why many proactive operators will print some of the manual off and keep it in the truck.

    Don't bother trying the plow functions, just see if the motor will run with the jumpers connected first as nothing else matters if the motor won't run.

    I don't use nor recommend aftermarket motors. They've well proven to be less reliable and under performers...especially once they have some age on them. A genuine Meyer motor may not be inexpensive but some things are cheaper for a reason.

    Do the jumper test a couple times to see if it runs and let us know what you find.
     
  5. cmo18

    cmo18 Senior Member
    Messages: 815

    Sorry for delay, i've been super busy and a lot of rain. I hooked the motor up to a battery today to see if it would work. Nothing turned on when I touch the positive terminal on the motor. So the motor is bad..
    What the difference between a e-60 and a e-60h?

    thank you B&B, any tips to replacing the motor?
     
  6. cmo18

    cmo18 Senior Member
    Messages: 815

    Also since i'm in there, should I replace the pump?
     
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Did you use the ground side of the cables too as I mentioned Chris? It's very important when doing this test, as it may be nothing more than a poor ground connection.

    However if you did use (directly on the motor) it and it still didn't spin then it's likely corroded internally and time for a motor before the season starts. And just replace the motor, no point in spending another $200 on a gear pump when you have no reason to at this point.

    The difference between a 60 and a 60E is just in the lift ram and cylinder, the E is 2" longer. All other parts are the same between the two.
     
  8. cmo18

    cmo18 Senior Member
    Messages: 815

    Yes it was grounded properly. Motor on order!

    The plow harness didnt need to be plug in tho, right?
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Nope don't need anything else connected except the jumper cables when testing the motor so you did just fine on the diagnosis and should be up and running with the fresh motor.
     
  10. cmo18

    cmo18 Senior Member
    Messages: 815

    Thanks a lot b&b , best of luck this season